Thanks for the reply.

1) My car is a non turbo. Is the opinion then that I can still chip the car to increase performance? Isn't there always more wear associated with increased performance and a mileage loss?

2) I've had the car on the road for two weeks or so. I'm spending about $63 per 465K at $1.20 or so for Premium - 91 octane. Thats quite an increase from my Hyundai Elantra, but it was obviously smaller, and newer technology by 6 years. I still like the 850 but today we almost had a tragic event.
As I started the car today in our winter conditions, the car was idling about 500 rpm too high. I moved ahead onto the street anyway and the car started to rocket ahead increasing speed. I was on my side street and no other cars were present but I had little time and my 13 year old daughter in the car. I cut power, put it into N and coasted to a stop. I tried the car 3 times and each time in P it was revving at 100% and the engine will blow at this rate. I ended up towing it to my mechanics and again, I'm carless for afew days. I hope this doesn't continue, or my next car won't be a Volvo. The 850 is a 1997, and it was well taken care of and passed emission and safety with no issues, except for having to replace the whole emerg, brake system that the last guy ripped out.

When I got to the mechanic, the car started and idled ok, but there was no way I was driving it because obviously if it took off in heavy Toronto traffic, it would be quite serious.

Has anyone had this happen and would it seem to be the throttle linkage up by the engine just seizing up?

Ian

 

Yes use 91+ octane. No, never had the throttle get stuck. Had it come loose, but not stuck open.

 

Before I owned the car, my aunt said it jammed up once on her and would go full throttle like a runaway Toyota, but it's a simple fix. Just clean your throttle housing. It can get really dirty in there sometimes and the pulley like wheel would get stuck from the dirt.

 

Release the throttle cable out of the mount and see if it is catching or has a tight spot...
If it does you can try a product called cable-life Spray it down the sleeve and work the cable back and fourth...

If its free move towards the throttle body.. see if it opens freely or is gummy and stuck...

 

Make sure the cruise conrtol motor cover was not eaten by acid from the battery. If so moisture might have gotten in there and shorted the connection and made the motor run holding the throttle open.

 

That is why you are the MAN!!!

 

Well my first Volvo has gone from $900 to about $4,000 and its been a lesson in patience and of how much these cars can cost.

The throttle sticking was a easy fix. Since its not an electronic set-up, my mechanic cleaned up the linkage and its fine. I have to consider that a weakness however, I've never had that issue with any other car.

The body work I did well on. The right rear quarter panel was smashed in and the hood had a rust spot bubbling the size of a loonie (our Canadian dollar coin) I can hear the comments now from my Brit friends on here that like me, were huge Monty Python fans. Anyway the car looks awesome and that fix was only $800.

Next, I was going to work one blustery winter morning and it was raining hard. The car stalled in the middle of a small valley - good thing we have cell phones these days. I got towed to my mechanic, one I liked...liked. He pointed out that in the 280K on the car, the wires, Dist. Cap and Rotor hadn't been done and quite possibly the plugs. I can't say I noticed the difference with the fix, but that was $600! Thats a $250-$300 job of most other cars I think. There is a silver lining here I'm getting to.

Then I found the place that I am SO grateful for. The 'Volvo Guys'. A fantastic shop in the west end of Toronto and they service only...you guessed it, Volvos. They did my timing belt, but they don't do heavy engine work. They do have used tranny's so they may install a used engine as well. Anyway, this place is a GOLD MINE. I have a small budget so I was getting worried about future costs.

Here's how good they are. I got quotes for the timing belt installed with a variety opinions on the other bits that go with it. Anway the prices ranged from $1,400 to $850 to $550 (my fav dealer) and the Volvo Guy did it for $350. Not only that, he has walls and walls of used parts like dashes, steering wheels, rims etc. If you need a part, this is the place to go for an older car. At the same time I had one roof trim strip replaced (rubber had rotted) - $25 vs $200 at the dealer and installed! The windshield washer bottle - was cracked and leaking, replaced for $25. He unhooked my dash switch from the gas cap door (that has to be the stupidest arrangement I have see, putting a $200 motor to open the fuel door when a cable on a lever under the front seat has always been fine) He could have replaced the motor but really, why bother? Almost forgot, with all this work I have to be fair to the Volvo. Most of this is repair or maintenance. The fuel door motor did break but the main reason for going to the VGuy was the dash. I hear its common for the dash to go and a new one is $900 and the Guy charged $90! So all that for $700 or so. One more piece they replaced and I'm VERY thankful. When I was accelerating, at 120K there was a jump in the acceleration or a miss. I had a tranny guy test the car and he couldn't put his finger on it - obviously an honest tranny shop. It turned out that when they were working on the timing belt they found a broken engine mount. It was replaced in that same $700+ bill ($60) and now there is none of that jumping. I imagine what I had was a torquing of the engine and some sort of misalignment with the transmission? IF you live anywhere near Toronto, you owe it to yourself to phone and see what they can do for you. These cars are costly and it helps when we can pay less per hour for labour and for parts. Volvo Guys - 468 Gilbert Avenue, Toronto - 416-538-6586.

I actually like the car, but I have to admit its a pig on gas and I don't notice any improvement with the tune up. The first mechanic put in NGK plugs, but for half the price the Volvo Guy would have put in Volvo Plugs and I see they look like they have more spark..is that correct?

I don't really notice a difference in performance with various gas octane levels - maybe 89 or higher is smoother.

Thats my adventure thus far. I just hope the repairs are done for a while.

Ian

 

Hi Jan, a 19 year old car, repairs are never done. The key at that age is to keep them from leaving you on the side of the road and from repairs costing you more than car payments. One question I have... Did the guy replace your timing belt rollers when he did the belt? Glad you found an affordable shop that can help you.

 

Wouldn't the only way the car could get STUCK at full throttle is if was REVVED to full throttle to begin with...? Otherwise, wouldn't it have to be an ECU fault?

 

Not a drive by wire car. ECU would have no effect. Ive heard of the cruise shorting out and pulling the throttle. Never happened here!!!

But good to know your smarter than all the Toyota drivers, put car in Neutral and turn off key!!! Simple steps yet somehow forgotten by all those Toyota customers!

 

I have seen the cruise short and open the throttle a few times not that many. Since the OP lives in Canada it does make sense that the ball seats might get some corrosion on them and cause an issue.
Although I have never seen that in Florida.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

I just wanted to address some of the comments here:

1) No I wasn't accelerating hard when the car took off on its own. I was gradually accelerating up my side street and then it was like someone else was stepping on the pedal. You have to keep a cool head here, and its logical to turn off the ignition. Whats really scary? The thought of driving one of the new cars with no ignition switch, the push button start models. How do you turn THOSE off?

2) No the rollers weren't replaced this time, just the belt and pump.

3) The 1997 has no electronics for the acceleration. Thankfully.

Ian

 

It's good to know the state of your rollers in the timing belt path. If you hear any squealing out of them, get them replaced so you don't have issues in the future. If a roller fails, it can cause your belt to jump and damage your motor.