Chapter I of the saga

Long story short:

- I bought a neglected 1996 850 NA MT.

Dirty, bald tires, crapped up interior. But a diamond in the rough.

Needs TLC after being neglected by a guy studying dorkology at local community college.

The PO drove it to my workshop 8 miles away and parked it. I had to leave it there for two weeks.

Started work on it today. Cleaned out interior more or less.

Got ready to pull it out for a good exterior wash.

No start. With a friend, we tried starting several times. I put 2.5 gallons of fuel in it. Still nothing. Started with and w/o clutch in. Engine turns, no start.

Oil level close to full. All fuses good.

Seems to be fuel-starved. I called PO who said he had replaced fuel relay with used one from junkyard.

We opened the airway and poured a small amount of fuel inside.

Roared like a proud Swedish bull, then died.

Repeated several times, always died.

Local parts store can't spell OK, much less Volvo.

Got on line and ordered a Kaehler fuel pump relay. Even if it isn't the problem, it will be good for emergencies.

Next issue: brakes.

The car doesn't move in neutral. I feel tugging on one rear brake and one front brake, both driver's side.

I believe rear is due to defective/corroded/unadjusted E-brake.

Am a little confused about the front. It almost sounds like something is sticking or it's still in gear.

Checked the clutch diagram. Vehicle seems to shift readily into all forward and rear gears.

Found info on e-brake replacement by Ozark Lee, a great write-up.

Now am checking other stuff as well.

I expect to replace all hoses after I flush system with Dot 3, replace all hoses, then install NEW DOT 4.

Expecting also to replace all brake pads, take apart and clean up each brake location and redo the e-brake, including turning e-brake drums and replacing e-brake cable.

All advice welcome, especially on quality brake hoses.

I use a Motive Power bleeder for my bleeding jobs.

Pls correct me if I am wrong, but there's no clutch slave cylinder, right?

All info welcome! I also need a 96 850 owner's manual, if you have one to sell. Original radio gone, have electronic one I don't like in its place. Looking for an older radio too, so it can be adjusted while you drive with your eyes on the road.

More to come as soon as I can get back to the car!

Thanks,

S

 

Awesome story! This is how I get my 850's also. I think I have a 96 owners manual so I'll look at that and let you know what kind of shape it's in.

About your specific questions, both my 5 speeds will start with the clutch out. I think that is odd, but there it is. The clutch is hydraulic with an external slave cylinder. You can jumper the fuel pump relay for diagnostic purposes if you've a mind to. Also, a tire gauge will fit on the fuel pressure port.

I find that a lot of $500 cars are full of trash at an outrageous level, and I have cleaned a lot of them out over the years. The volvos really empty pocket change like no other car I've ever seen. If you take the seats out you'll probably find $5 or $10 in there.

 

Volvo owner manual is free.
Owner's Manuals | Volvo Cars

 

Thanks for info. Still would like a manual for glove box. Am thinking of removing e-brake while I work on regular brakes. OBD2 shows no codes so will do a total baseline on car then reinstall e-brakes. Time to look under seats for cash lol.

 

another good resource is volvotips.com.

regarding the ebrakes, the typical problem is the shoes separate and can bind up. If you are going to pull off the calipers and replace the rear rotors, you're all set to replace the e-brake shoes (give it plenty of slack on the cables, then use a screw driver to work the d retract "wheel" in the small opening). Even doing both I had to really work to get the hubs off due to a ridge in the metal when I did mine... You can always disconnect the ebrake cable temporarily, but that wont help if the shoes are binding.

 

Take the rear rotor and see what's going on.

 

exactly! (I should have taken a pic when I did mine). Good view of the star adjuster to slacken the shoes as well.

 

As it turned out, I removed the DR tire after jacking and stabilizing the driver's side rear area. It was locked after being parked for two weeks w/o the park brake.


I cleaned as I went and before I even pulled the rotor off, seventeen pounds of sand and dirt came flooding out onto the garage floor! I spun the rotor around a bit and got another three pounds of crud.


Since everything was moving freely, I cleaned up the dirt and replaced the tire. My main intent was to move the car out of its space at the storage location so as to make more room for parts/tool storage and repair.

Finally got the new fuel pump relay and replaced the jumper wire!


I had had problems starting the car and replaced the battery with the correct Volvo battery. Imagine my surprise when I saw that the battery which the guy had stuck in the car when he dropped it off was a SIX-VOLT battery!!!


It was charged to the max but obviously was NOT the right battery for the car.


During this week, I will make my list of items to check as a part of the zero base line process.


I have oil and fuel filters, and wonder if I should save up to replace the plugs, ignition coils and wires all at once or not.


Two questions for the group:


1. Some people have told me they replace all coils and injectors at the 100,000 mile mark on the 850. I am more concerned about the timing belt, so am not driving the car until I confirm the date of last replacement job


2. Antifreeze: I know that newer Volvos tend to use the phosphate-free mix and that it can't be mixed with other types. Benzes use one of the three mixes out there, depending on age: real old ones use Prestone Green, less old use Zerex G-05 or equivalent, newest use a totally phosphate-free stuff.


Since you can't mix anti-freezes, which is recommended for the 1996 Volvo? What do you use to flush? Benzes use multi-phase flush. First, a 1/2 cup of liquid Tide in two gallons of water, run for twenty minutes to degrease. Then two rinses with the hose. Then 10% citric acid in water, run for thirty minutes, then several rinses with hose to get all the junk out, followed by addition of 50/50 antifreeze of correct type.


There's no info on the Volvo sites about cooling system flushing, so am interested in what other Volvo drivers do.


Thanks!

 

850 only had one coil. I don't really worry about them unless the car won't run. I don't have a good diagnostic for dirty fuel injectors, but in all my messing around with junk Volvos, I haven't seen a need to replace one. I am no Volvo expert, though.

 

I bought a new key at the Volvo dealership and got the key number for future reference. Then I asked for any/all info available on this vehicle. needed the engine number for reference in buying parts.


Surprise! The build sheet says it was an automatic AW 50-42, but I have an MT-46 in it!


Also discovered that the radio code for my vehicle is identical to the radio code for the 960!


Am eligible for checks from two recalls, so after other work is done, will bring the car into the local dealership.


Still looking for used interior, this one is pretty bad.

 

May have a line on a used interior but have discovered other problems!


- Replaced the fuel relay and fuel is good, performance is good have not driven it too fast or too far, still checking it out.


- Found I am missing a ton fuses. Not burned out-- just not there!


- My Volvo buddy came by, looked under the engine and told me that I am also missing something behind the engine, that was connected to an aluminum foil hose on the back of the engine, between the engine and the firewall.
What am I missing?


Additionally, one of my strut upper mounts is apparently on upside down! I have to take the whole thing apart!


Plus I still need to baseline the car: fluids, belts, timing belt and water pump, plus belt tensioners.


I'll have a new car when this is all done!

 

You are missing the stove on the exhaust manifold which creates a source of warm air for the engine to use on a cold frosty morning. there are some vacuum controls on the factory airbox which can select that hot air (or not). This system is not very important for performance, nor hard to find. However, it might be necessary for an emissions inspection.

 

If someone would like to sell me one of these stoves or at least send me a photo of what they look like, that would be great.


E-mail is: du11bn1950@yahoo.com.


Thanks!