Hey guys and gals... Went to check out my new purchase today and strike a deal with the current owner. Its a black 95 850T wagon with 16T, BSR Stage 3 ecu, koni yellow/Ipd springs, OBX exhause,and more...Well taken care of with the 279k on the odometer, but PO states it is clicking off about 3 miles to every 1 mile driven. I'm familiar with the odometer gear issues, my 97 855 base wagon had the same trouble...But I've never heard of it clicking off more than whats being driven (as most of them just stop working altogether)...

On my short test drive (since I couldn't take it further than a mile down the driveway due to no registration/inspection/insurance being on the car...) I noticed that the odo/trip meter didn't seem to move at all, however the mileage on the Info center would go up astronomically. We're talking 1800 miles driven being shown to the 1 mile I drove... What would cause this?

Overall the car seems great and is well maintained by another enthusiast (and I believe member of this and multiple other Volvo boards) and is well worth the negotiated asking price..Definitely worth daily driving while I put in elbow grease at the boneyard pulling parts :thumbsup: She comes home with me in 2 weeks, and with my job I don't have a whole lot of time to monkey around with getting her on the road, so I'd like to have my ducks in a row when she gets here so I can get her thru safety inspection immediately...

Some of the other issues I found are as follows (any suggestions/advice to fix is greatly appreciated)

PCV system was replaced 3 years back. Still smoking and I suspect valve stem seals (pcv hoses are still pretty soft) and she burns a bit of oil (PO states about 1qt every 4-5k miles...again I suspect valve stem seals)

She hasn't been run much in the past year, so stage 0 and some fresh 97 octane/seafoam/fuel filter/oil change is a must. She does have a pretty hefty lifter tick that gets faster as idle goes up, sounds like its the middle and right (driver side) making the noise. From what I have read, this can be cause by oil pump seals as well, I may consider dropping the pan anyhow to clean off any sludge on the pickup screen...

I'll need to install a 3" cat. converter into the exhaust and a rear o2 sensor for inspection, which isn't a major issue ($100 for parts)

Heater core needs replaced ($45 and a couple hours of my time...)

The SRS light is stuck on. Previous owner replaced the dash with a non cracked black/tan one and had to move car with it all disconnected. Is there a way to clear out the light from the under hood DTC port for airbag?

Speaking of replacing the dash...I'm not sure what year this dash came out of, but did the 95 850T come with Tracs as standard? IIRC Tracs came with the ABS equipped OBDII cars, correct? I'm not terribly familiar with the pre obdII 850s honestly...cut my teeth on the 97 that I had...

She needs her tail lamps polished or replaced from salt water exposure on the Oregon coast for about a year (also why carpet and headliner were removed, as the sunroof leaks and it all molded...a day in the junkyard pulling a charcoal/grey interior will fix that)

Headlamp wipers are missing the arms...May mold some fiberglass inserts to replace the panels with the holes for the arms and just delete the option entirely...kinda useless and common breakage item anyhow lol..

She has been in 1 accident from what Autocheck stated, back in about 2000...I can see the passenger fender doesn't line up with the body at the door but it doesn't affect the operation of the door...That I can probably fix by realigning the panel...no big deal... Also has a minor wrinkle in the driver quarter panel above the bumper, parking lot ding I suspect...a bit of body filler and some sanding/painting will fix that...

I'll post pics when I get her home. Definitely a strong runner and I suspect she has a lot of potential left in her...Easily another 100k miles, and hey...She's a great candidate for a rebuild and 5 speed swap And with gas prices down, it'll be a great daily driver. May require a skid plate up front or different springs to go with the Konis or 15" wheels (she scrapes pretty good on speed bumps and the 16's rub the fender liners on harder turns) but it'll make a nice sleeper once I'm done and a much better grocery getter than my Protege5...

Any suggestions/info you folks can provide (links to DIY guides, aftermarket/performance parts and upgrades, info on BSR stage 3 tune/supporting mods, etc) is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

-B

 

a few comments - Odometer gear fails are pretty common. I've done 3 on '95 850s. easy enough to pull the cluster (7-8 screws and you can prop up the left side of the dash cover to pull out in about 15-20 minutes. You just need a T-8 bit to open up the cluster, and don't forget to mark the needles as you pull off the face plate to get to the gears). The info center collects its own mileage data from the Driver's information module, which is the same reason you can use the OBD1 diagostics port to play back the true mileage (assuming you are on the original cluster - this is how the service indicator lamp is timed).

a few other thoughts: burning 1 QT every 4000-5000 is on the good side of normal for that mileage. if you do a Seafoam, just note that that may push sludge into the PCV system so you may create issues there. For the SRS error code, check out Volvotips for the OBD1 ports and procedure. for the 95s, TRACS was not standard (no TRACS on my 95 - but it may have been on the 96/97s). Regarding the tail lights, they come in two parts if you want to replace tops/bottoms only they are not that expensive. I've also heard that you can use the lights from a V70 for a freshened look too.. (suggest you do your own research there as I have not tried that out). For the handling, I did the IPD HD sway bars with matching HD end links on my wagon, huge difference! I've done both Bilsteins and Boge Sach and now back to Boge's. If you go with 16 inch wheels, just pay attention to offset and rim width and you shouldn't get any tire rub. One last upgrade to consider is to put in bigger front brakes. You can take the front caliper brackets from the newer models and move up to their bigger disks. Kits available on ebay too, the only downside is you can't run 15 inch rims with the bigger disks (need to go 16 or 17). On the headlight wipers - its common for the motors/gears to jam up. I'm with you on the delete option - I've unplugged the motors on mine and while I have the spares, I didn't see the need to install, buy new arms, blades etc.

 

I may honestly skip the Seafoam and just run some BG 44k and their EPR/MOA oil change kit thru it, and change the oil to some 15w40 full synthetic Castrol Extended (gold bottle 15k mile oil) with a Bosch distance+ filter (my preferred oil change package on any car). The previous owner is nice enough to include a new PCV system kit with the sale of the car, as well as the original airbag module that was removed for replacement...

The odometer gear I'll get to eventually...More of a minor annoyance than anything else, and knowing I can read out the mileage from the car thru the DTC box under the hood is nice. Biggest thing that I'd like to figure out is why the info center under the speedo is clicking off 1800 miles for every 1 driven lol. Its gotta be an electrical/sensor issue...Again, more of a minor annoyance, but I'd like to be able to use the info center to track MPG...

As far as the tracs system goes, its my understanding that it only came on ABS equipped cars after 95, which makes me wonder if this dash came out of a 96-97 GLT model...It also has the front/rear fog switch and heated mirror switch, but from what I can see the car doesn't have those options installed...yet Big plans and many days spent in the junkyard ahead

I've read about using the V70 tail lights in the past, considered it on my 97 855 wagon...I may consider it on this car, from what I recall though it does require some minor modifications to sheetmetal...I'll have to find the thread I looked over years ago and see what it says again. Honestly, I'll probably stick with the stock 2 piece ones and just run some Meds Restorem over the lights or a bit of rubbing compound and a buffer...They are more chalky than anything else and I am almost certain they will clean up and polish out nicely...

Thanks for the info on the larger brake upgrade and the swaybar upgrade That'll definitely come in handy. The car has stock 16's on it now but they are rubbing with the koni yellows/ipd springs on the car when I go over about 3/4 to lock on the steering wheel...could just be tire size (I think they were 225/45zr16 Continental DWS). I also need to look and see if the Koni's are adjustable, maybe I can raise her back up about 1/2". Ideally I'd like to get the suspension to a point where she doesn't handle like a giant brick on wheels (i.e. a 3800 lb station wagon lol) and be able to handle more like a family sports sedan with the ability to tow a small camper behind.

We'll see how she turns out. Interior is the first thing on my list of projects, reassembly and refurbishing. Want to get my android head unit with nav/blutooth/dvd etc installed and find some rear headrest monitors to go with it. From there it'll be sealing the sunroof leak, installing a new headliner, and finding new seats in charcoal that aren't torn to bits (never understood why, but every car I've owned that had leather interior the charcoal/grey seats held up better than the tan...)

The headlight wipers on the car don't even have arms on them currently lol...Not sure I'll even put new ones on, and I can't say they even have motors installed (didnt really look)

 

Couple of thoughts.

Every time I have brought an 850 back to life from sitting, the ticking has stopped after about 20 minutes of running. So I hope you find that the case.

Good tail lights are easy to find, I have have some, PM me if you're interested. I guess a lot of us have them.

Finally, I guess you know this, but the sunroof is not really water tight; You need to work on the drains and just let the water pass on by.

 

Here's hoping thats all it is for the ticking and not a collapsed lifter. Last vehicle I bought that sounded this bad had worn wrist pins (2000 Venture van) and made it 4000 miles before it finally keeled over and said enough lol... Worse case, I'll run the BG EPR thru it and change oil, and that should help quiet it down and get the gunk out of the engine. Any suggestions where I can find a magnetic oil drain plug for the car? More specifically, does anyone know the threading on the oil drain plug?

I'll keep you in mind for those tail lamps. I have a good source for all things Hella lighting, and if the ones on the car won't clean up I'm going to check with them first (buddy of mine runs one of the largest Hella warehousing distributors in the US, right here in PA).

As for the sunroof, I suspected drains being plugged up, usually the case on any car with a sunroof. I did notice though that there is a bit of rust in the front corners of the frame where the glass seal sits and the seal looks a bit rough/weather checked...May try and replace it if possible...Also need to lube the track for both the roof and the cover panel...cover needs reupholstered anyhow... Can you guys link me to a write up on how to pull the cover/glass for this job?

 

225/45x16 could be the rub. Factory size is 205/50-16. Check the wheels for their offset (the number after the ET stamping - probably either 43 or 38. I'm guessing you have ET43s which means the widest tire you should run is the 205. If you go aftermarket wheel shopping look for 7 or 7.5s with a 38mm offset if you'd like to run 225s.

Also, if you are converting over from dino to synthetic oil, consider using a high mileage oil for the next oil change. These cars can be bleeders if the seals get hard and the high mileage oils have softeners which can prep you for moving up to a synthetic.

 

I want to say they are 16"x6.5 wheels...the weird looking 5 spoke cheese grater looking things...My 97 base had the same ones...

Edit: This guy here:

Not that I'm looking to put new wheels/tires on any time soon lol...I may pull the tires off my Protege5 and move them over to the Volvo (205/45-16) and just run those...Now if only Volvo would've used a more common 5x114.3 bolt pattern, I'd have a set of 17" Kosei sniper wheels I could use... lol

PO states he's always run Mobil1 synthetic in the car since he's bought it (about 3-4 years ago) and there are absolutely no leaks that I can see underneath...she really is a clean car for the age, if ya don't factor in the shredded front seat leather and missing headliner/carpet...

 

Those are factory OEM rims - should be 16x6.5 ET43s. If you run the 205/45-16s they will fit but are about 3% shorter (ie speedo will read 67 when you are actually going 65 and odometer will clock 103 miles for every 100. Considering your speedo's already wonky, not a problem eh?. The good news about the 850s is they share the 5x108 bolt pattern and 65.1mm center hub with most of the newer Volvos (some s40s are different) so there's a pretty good choice in the market. Since you are already on synthetic you're good to go - just use OEM Mann oil filters - they have a check valve to keep oil up top for improved cold start lubrication.

 

Awesome, good to know Honestly, I don't expect to change them out anytime soon...and I'll most likely stick to 16's if I do. Probably will see if I can find some et38's from the scrapyard and use those, just so I can use a more common tire size...Unless a good deal just happens to come along on a set of aftermarket 16's in the right offset... Figure I'll run Continental DWS or TrueContact tires year round and skip having a set of wheels for just snow tires (we'll see how she does next winter before I make that decision).

I've run Mann filters in the past on other cars, great filters. I'm stuck on Bosch distance+ filters for the most part because the filter material is USA made by Clarcor/Purolator (who manufactures Baldwin filters in Kearney, NE) and has a better anti drainback valve than most (very close if not equal to the Mann filters). Usually would use the PureONE line since its cheaper than the Bosch, but the Bosch has a slightly heavier duty case and holds just a bit more particulate material than its Purolator counterpart...at least that was the case before WalMart started selling them...Not sure how their quality is now, but I have yet to have any troubles with them. Considering I do go about 5000-7500 miles/6 months between oil changes with the synthetic Castrol Edge 15k mile oil, and I run a BG kit thru my cars every other oil change (once a year) I should be ok...

Another item on the list is going to be a drain and fill on the tranny after running some BG quick clean thru it, adding full synthetic BG fluid back in with a can of ATC plus conditioner...Out of curiosity, do our transmissions have a replaceable filter in the pan? I'd like to pump out as much of the old fluid as possible and reseal the pan as a just in case measure, and while im in there I may as well replace the filter...Its been my experience in the past dropping the pan gets the most old fluid out when paired with the drain/refill/repeat procedure that I've read about here...

Our autoboxes take Dex/Merc fluid IIRC, right?

If ya can't tell, I'm a sucker for BG products lol. Helps I have a good connection with the local dealer and get wholesale pricing with retail purchasing power

Off topic, but I did a bit of research into the VIN on this car too, looks like it was a Belgian manufactured 850T

 

I had never heard of BG before you mentioned it in this post. How did you get convinced of them? What do you use at oil change?

 

interesting, I checked out their web site and found a number of local shops here in CT are listed in their directory ( but NOT my Indy). Sounds like they sell high detergent additives and flush services for all fluids in a car. Kind of like the Seafoam in the gas, Seafoam in the oil, Seafoam in yer coffee thing. The difference is that they market flush services which they suggests extracts the junky materials rather than just loosening and draining a while later.

 

Its big around here. Most every dealership uses BG products. I am quite fond of Seafoam, and have had excellent results with it in the past, however the BG stuff seems to work better (anecdotal evidence at best, YMMV)

A lot of the independent garages around here recommend/offer service using their products as well.

Case in point: I had a 97 Legacy Outback with 300k miles on it...2nd tranny...had 180k on the transmission when I drained and filled it. Their cleaner amd trans fluid worked so well that it took out the tranny (which in my defense was already failing anyhow). Main thing that sold me on BG products is cost (everything is synthetic) vs off the shelf stuff, and that the quality is there given the price. I'd honestly rank it up there with Mobil1 and Castrol products (subjective, again YMMV).

The BG oil change kit is their 44k fuel additive, 1 can of EPR cleaner, and 1 can of MOA. The EPR works quite well (on par or better than the 1qt tranny fluid in the engine trick). I ran it on the protege last oil change with oil that was ~4k miles in and dark brown. Pour the can in, run the car at 2k rpm for about 15 minutes, drain...When I drained the old oil out after the EPR treatment, it was black as tar and heavy (I run 10w30, it was thick enough and dark enough to look like 15w40, and the EPR isnt terribly thick stuff to begin with. ~ the same as 10w40 oil...)

After filter change and filling with clean oil, you run the MOA thru with the oil and thats it. 44k the gas tank about 100 miles prior to doing the rest of the kit...

 

Can anyone comment on the Mishimoto silicone radiator hose set for our cars? Is it worth the $115 to upgrade to silicone hoses? I've never honestly sprung for radiator hoses, but I have used silicone in the past for vacuum lines and they do seem to hold up better than their rubber counterparts...

Ideally, I'm looking to upgrade as much on this car to increase longevity and $ to repair...I intend on keeping it for quite some time (5+ years or until I can find a decent V70XC/Canadian 850AWD replacement that I can swap go fast parts on to from this car) and would rather spend a bit more cash now than in the long run by replacing things every 6 months...Honestly just want a car that requires general maintenance and not major repairs every 2 weeks like this damn Mazda...

Edit: Also, what would you folks recommend for spark plugs? Since the car has been upgraded from the original turbo to the 16T with the BSR Stage 3 tune, I'm not sure what to order honestly...I'm guessing at this but I would imagine I would want a higher heat range plug, similar to the ones in the T5-R? How well do our cars respond to iridium or platinum plugs? I've run cars in the past that developed issues when switched to plat/irid plugs and would rather not waste the $ to order them only to find out they don't play nice...