The other one is SMI which I appear to have. It appears its not a rebuildable model from some threads so hopefully there is no issue with the rack. Makes it harder to get the tie rod either way. The steering shop has my old one and will look for one with the same measurements. Fingers crossed.

 

Are the tie rods for the 850 the same as the s70?

 

A $183 inner tie rod later and the 850 is on the way to the alignment shop. It's been a sad sight these 3 weeks sitting on stands waiting for a part to come from the US. It still hasn't arrived so I had to bite the bullet and buy from the dealership. They even had a tough time tracking one down. The s70 is identical fortunately. Still some movement though. Not positive how much movement is normal when you tug on the tires.

Does anyone have an idea whether the different racks are interchangeable? If the movement is the rack (heaven forbid), I will just have to get a TRW one and put it in assuming its a simple bolt on replacement.

 

GRRRRR! Car failed again. This time they're saying its the outer tie rod. At least the outer won't cost me as much but probably means I didn't need the inner at all. Very GRRRRR!

 

Tie rods (inner or outer) here in the US are about $ 20, if not cheaper. In fact, FCP sells them I think for $ 12.50.

I just did a quick estimate on the US Postal Service (www.usps.gov) and it costs about $ 45 to ship to New Zealand (6-10 business days).

Replacing the rack, as I understand, is a big job as sub-frame member(s) have to be removed.

 

Yeah they are nice and cheap in the US. I miss being able to buy cheap parts. I did order one 3 weeks ago from autoparts warehouse. It was hard finding one that would fit an SMI rack. The threads of the inner going into the rack are 2mm thicker than a TRW tie rod. FCP and IPD didn't list them online.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...1627803&submit=

My 5-10 business day delivery though is into the 13th day. We're moving this week so I need my tow vehicle functioning. The dealership was the only option. The steering shops couldn't even find one. They suggested machining one to suit. That would have cost the same as the stock volvo one so I bit the bullet. The safety check guys are muppets and after rechecking, they now say its the outer.

Replacing the rack would be a nightmare I would like to aviod at all costs!

 

well put on a new outer and the movement was identical. I took it to get what I thought would be the 2nd fail but the arrogance of the testing guy surprised me. He was so positive that it was the outer and not the steering rack that he simply saw the new part and passed it. Didn't bother putting it on the hoist to check. Dodgy.

So it buys me 6 more months but the rack is obviously the problem that needs attending to.

Is it common for movement to occur on one side only? Rocking the left wheels doesn't result in the movement that the right one does.

If anyone has changed a rack, was it easier to pull the motor or would simply holding it from above and removing the subframe be the way to go? Thought I read somewhere that its a 3-4 hour job although I would expect it to take longer than that???

 

I'm once again faced with slight movement in the right front wheel when the wheel is rocked side to side. Since the inner and outer tie-rod are new, I have to assume its the rack.

I was going to try and replace it but am unsure as to how to proceed. Doesn't seem to be much info on it. Has anyone done it and what is the easiest way.

Dropping the front frame member sounds like a chore. Would the engine need to be supported from above if that's the way to do it? I haven't had a real close look at the area yet. The other option is obviously doing it from above after pulling an engine. Neither scenario is great and a suspension shop would be over $1000 easily for the job.

I have another vehicle to drive so can have it out of action for a while if its a long job. Any suggestions on how to do it?

 

If this happens when you grab the wheel at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, it ain't the rack. Use this guide.


Yes, engine needs to be raised a little to release pressure on the engine mounts. Subframe needs to be dropped at the rear. Rack will come out to the right side. But you aren't sure if it's the rack, are ya?

Racks usually leak from various 50-cent o-rings. Some people, who have another vehicle to drive, rebuild them themselves; it ain't that hard if you have a hardware store close-by and follow some simple instructions. I have rebuilt a Ford and a Mercedes unit, but not a Volvo. For my 850, I got a re-maned unit from the Seller when I bought the car. The real job though is to take it out.

Overhaul kits cost $ 30- $ 60. Some people get a re-man unit for $ 200 - $ 300. I wouldn't get a JY unit.

 

There isn't any leaking involved with it. There is slight movement which isn't the tie rods. It's coming from the rack. It's no longer tight and will therefore fail its warrant of fitness over here in NZ.

Mention Volvo at a hardware store here and they just laugh. It's all special order.

My steering rack unfortunately is an SMI unit which is non-rebuildable.

So I'm pretty much forced to put one in from a car being wrecked. I can get one from a car with 180k (115miles) for about 100usd. Alternatively, I can order one from the states for plus core charge (being in NZ, its unlikely I'll spend $150 in postage to redeem my $150 core charge) plus shpping. So it will be a hell of a lot for a unit of questionable quality. I'll have to take my chances with the wreckers,

It's just the lack of resources on how to do it that worries me slightly.

How should I raise the engine? From below or lifting from above? If below, is there a good place to put the jack/stands?

 

Understood.


I don't know if you can do it from below. I did it from the top, but I have a full blown "toolbox", including a 2-ton engine hoist. Here you can buy hoists for $ 50- $ 70 that will do the job, because this is a light engine. Maybe you can get quotes from a couple of shops. Good luck.

 

Just had a quick look and below would be difficult. haha. Bit different then the old Beetle i was thinking about when i wrote the last post.

I'll probably end up renting a hoist then. About $200 here for one. I only need it for a day or two.

Anything else required other then unweighting the engine, disconnecting tie rods, removing frame suuport, and removing rack?

 

New o-rings for the fluid lines. Disconnect column (joint) from steering gear, 1 bolt IIRC. I remember seeing a write-up somewhere or Matthews Volvo. A helper willing to be underneath the car helps.

You don't have to remove the inner tie rods, but it helps. You may want to use them in the new gear. Plumbers wrench here.

 

Thanks for that.

I would love to re-use the inner tie rods but since an SMI rack is coming out and in all liklihood, a TRW rack is going in, the inners will be useless. Different thread on the rack side of the rod. A shame since it was very hard to replace them earlier this year.

I couldnt find the Matthews writeup even though i tried looking a couple days ago.

 

These are Volvo's own instructions, but I found Instructions from one of these sites to be more detailed. Here are a few threads:

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...teering-37987/

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...acement-32410/

Especially this (thanks Tech)..

 

Although I still think there is movement in the rack, I'm not 100% sure because there is also movement in the lower balljoint. Before I attempt a rack job, I will fix that first. I might get lucky and find that it was the problem all along.

Can the ball joint on the control arm be replaced without discarding the arm or do you have to replace as one unit? If not, are there brands to avoid? I recall hearing of some low quality ones out there and would like to aviod if I can. Cheers

 

They are 2 types: separable and not separable. In my car they were one unit, not separable. You need to check yours.

MTC, Scantech, URO, House brands are low-cost and short service-life.

Meyle, Moog are better quality, longer service-life. Genuine Volvo is probably double or triple the price, but it ain't double or triple the quality over Meyle or Moog. In fact, Meyle makes some suspension components for Volvo, which are stamped Volvo Genuine.

 

no complaints about a TRW one?

 

I don't know TRW ball joints, but their tie-rods are low-cost, short service-life products.

 

anyone else used trw control arms? They are 3 times the price of the cheapies online and the only locally available ones here.

On a more humerous note the dealership (which has actually been pretty good to me on parts) quoted me just over $2300nzd for a new steering rack. I was curious so I asked them. The entire vehicle cost me $2700nzd.