Timing belt interval in years...
#1
Timing belt interval in years...
just noticed on my daughter's 850T her timing belt was done 60K miles ago - but in 2006... I've read some suggestions to change every 7 years and others say 10 years max... Her question was "can it make it through the winter..." and my reply was, if the timing belt goes, the car goes to a junk yard... (its in fair condition)
#2
I'm sure you know the answer, change it. If it is on it's second, or more change (>140,000 miles) and doesn't have record of the rollers, tensioner, and water pump being replaced, replace those too.
I learned the hard way. I ASSUMED that making it through the winter was possible, it wasn't. No record of other TB parts being replaced, just the TB at 70k miles and 7 years. I would have been changing it for it's third time. In the dead of winter, the water pump seized. To make things more embarassing, I had ALL new parts for the timing system in my house waiting for a not so cold day. That day didnt come and I had to rebuild the head.
Yours could make it, or it couldn't. It is a gamble. You CAN take the time while it is nice out to inspect each component. Make sure the tensioner isn't leaking and has strong compression. Make sure the rollers are free and not loose. Make sure the water pump spins freely with no grinding. These checks aren't a guarantee but might help you decide if it CAN make it through winter. If you have money, and time while it is still nice, change it. You don't want to live with failed tbelt regret.
I learned the hard way. I ASSUMED that making it through the winter was possible, it wasn't. No record of other TB parts being replaced, just the TB at 70k miles and 7 years. I would have been changing it for it's third time. In the dead of winter, the water pump seized. To make things more embarassing, I had ALL new parts for the timing system in my house waiting for a not so cold day. That day didnt come and I had to rebuild the head.
Yours could make it, or it couldn't. It is a gamble. You CAN take the time while it is nice out to inspect each component. Make sure the tensioner isn't leaking and has strong compression. Make sure the rollers are free and not loose. Make sure the water pump spins freely with no grinding. These checks aren't a guarantee but might help you decide if it CAN make it through winter. If you have money, and time while it is still nice, change it. You don't want to live with failed tbelt regret.
Last edited by BrwMstrHRx; 08-17-2015 at 12:27 PM.
#4
#7
My belt looked fine for it's age, even before the pump failed. No fraying, no chipped teeth, no rot/cracking. It was an OEM belt. Good news about your pump being replaced and OEM at that. Still check your tensioner and rollers. Though it still stands, if you have the resources, change it.
You seem knowledgable but a few helpful tips. A bench vice is helpful for compressing the tensioner if you plan to resuse it, though a large C clamp works fine as well. Have a small nail or drill bit handy as a pin to set the compressed tensioner. A shallow drive socket wrench is almost necessary to get the torx bolt of the roller off (if you do replace it). The cam locking tool from IPD is quite useful, I highly suggest it. If I think of anything else I'll add it.
You seem knowledgable but a few helpful tips. A bench vice is helpful for compressing the tensioner if you plan to resuse it, though a large C clamp works fine as well. Have a small nail or drill bit handy as a pin to set the compressed tensioner. A shallow drive socket wrench is almost necessary to get the torx bolt of the roller off (if you do replace it). The cam locking tool from IPD is quite useful, I highly suggest it. If I think of anything else I'll add it.
#9
#10
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jollygoodgold (12-07-2022)
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