Hello all, I'm having some serious issues with the replacement of my timing belt. I have everything swapped over except the belt itself now. There just doesn't seem to be enough belt to go around everything.

What I have: 95 850 Turbo
New: belt by beck arnley, new idler, tensioner and tensioner pulley.

I've measured the pullies, width and length of the belt, even counted teeth. All seems like it should go on smoothly. I've watched the fcp and robert's video, but none show the vital last step of getting the belt on. I'm at a loss right now and this is the only thing holding me up.

TIA for any help offered beyond "search n00b", because I did search and no one seemed to be having the issue I'm having :sadbanana:

 

I had the same difficulty with my first belt change. Turns out I didn't have the belt properly wraped around the crank pulley - it was hung up on something down there. Once fixed, the bent slipped onto the rest pullies just fine. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks, I have that same sense...that it's caught up on something down there, but can't see what it is. I'll have a peek at it this afternoon with fresh eyes to see if I'm missing something.

I'm wondering if I should take off the crank pulley to see if I'm hanging up on anything?

 

You should be able to see it once you have the steel cover off thats around the crank. Its a nub that sticks out, you have to work it around that. This is a very common issue.

 

My video clearly shows and explains how to get the belt around the crank dampener at 3:50.

Also, I usually install the hydraulic tensioner after the belt is in place.

 

Nice vid rspi!!

Couple of comments to rspi and OP (since i just did this on both my cars):

1. Take off wedding ring and other jewelry when working on cars; it's a safety issue.
2. I route the belt and ck the timing before installing the tensioner piston assembly. Rotate the crank (carefully only a few degrees around the crank timing mark) to get all the slack in the belt on the tensioner side. Forward side of belt and top (between two cams) should be taught. Then you can install the tensioner assembly (compressed) and tighten the bolts. Ck the timing again in same manner; only if it's still good, then remove the tensioner pin.
3. TIP: If you're re-using the tensioner (i usually do unless it's got over 200K miles) a 5d nail (shortened) works very well for a pin. Pull it, once tensioner is installed, with a diagonal cutter.
4. RSPI: you showed it pretty well at 3:50 mark, but for me, the trick is to get the bottom of the belt on its side with teeth facing out away from engine so edges of belt bottom are almost facing straight up and down. Then it will go in there fairly easy. I remember struggling with this on the first car until i figured that out. The 2nd car went much quicker.
5. Remember, if you do re-use the tensioner, compress it veeerrryy slowly! I used a vice and that was the longest part of the job. Turn the vice about 1/8 turn till resistance is felt; wait 60 seconds and do it again.

 

OK, I found my issue. There's a nub on the very bottom and behind the crank that I wasn't getting passed. I feel like an id10t. But, she's on and still timed perfectly once I spun her twice. Now to get this dang serpentine belt on correctly. I have bookends for hands, so getting in tiny places with them can be rather difficult.

Thanks everyone, and boxpin special thanks for pointing that out

 

Good job! You're no idiot. Everybody gets stuck on that same item.

 

Super great tips GDog. I have finally figured out that I should get the belt on and make sure timing is aligned before I even put the tensioner on (last item).

I actually work on compressing the tensioner while doing other work so it really adds no time to the job. I use the 8" c-clamp and turn it 1/2 turn ever minute or two.

Glad the OP has it worked out.

Oh, and I know better than to work with a ring on, I keep forgetting to take it off. When I see the videos I'm like, dang it, forgot to take the ring off again (not sure if loosing 3 of them has anything to do with it).

 

It can be done w/o this tool but since I got it, I have used it multiple times and it makes so easy!
Volvo Serpentine Belt Tool 105058 T70450

If you can wield you could make one easy enough from scrap metal. The real trick is the 0.150" diameter rod tool that holds the serpentine tensioner in compressed position and makes it super simple to install the belt.