Hi Enthusiasts;

1997 850 base

One of the many projects I have slated for this spring is to address a torn outer cv boot on the drivers' side. It looks like a single tear with a nominal amount of grease extruded. There's very little splatter. I was made aware of the tear while having a strut mount repaired about 3 months ago. Cash has been tight, so I figured I'd wait for a click or some indication that the joint was failing. I was out looking at it this afternoon and it really doesn't look that messy.

These CVJ's are both original volvo axles on a car with 57k.
Car was dealer serviced until I got it.
Half the mileage on the car was literally by a little old lady to the grocery store and back for 15 years with the yearly trip to Vermont where I drove (she gave it to me at 28k, had been garage-stored until Fall '14).
It HAS SEEN NYC since fall '14 driving with plenty of rough road surface (only a few unavoided potholes).
Mechanic wants to change both sides with aftermarket axles (I'm assuming because quote was for $325 inclusive for both sides).
So... I'm considering a split boot repair kit, wipe off old grease, repack boot, strap it on... Because they're volvo original equipment with low miles.
There's no noise upfront whatsoever on hard turns.. no clicking, grinding...

My questions to the forum..
Should I order the rebuilts from fpceuro for about a buck fifty and have a local shop put them in?
Is the volvo original axle better quality than an aftermarket or fpceuro rebuilt axle to the point where, even though there has been "some" moisture contamination for the past 4+ months, I could wipe out the old and repack with new grease and keep potentially better quality component in?
What about buying just a rebuilt driver's side axle from fpceuro and having shop install that and leave the passenger alone (my preference)? Is a rebuilt from fpc going to be better than a splitboot repairkit and repacking a vovlo axle with a small tear in the outer boot that's not making any noise?

Thanks in advance.

 

I've had good luck with the rebuilds - probabably have 100K+ on my 850s. If your axle isn't making any noises you could remove and repack with a slip over (ie OEM) boot. Alternatively you can try the split boots (there are glue together and screw together types).

 

It would be more billable hours on a slip over boot replacement than an axle replacement. The axle would have to be removed and then cleaned, inspected and repacked... if the shop would even do it. Mine will not but it's a warranty liability thing. IE it starts clicking 5k miles later and we are out an axel and the labor.

Strange that they said do both, unless there was cracking or obvious wear on the other. I'd ask them to show you why. The only thing we recommend along with an axel is the bearing do to the extra stress placed on it.

The job itself is pretty strait forward but much easier with air tools and a lift than with hand tools on jack stands.

 

Will these axles come apart, or do you guys pull the boot over the joint?

 

What?

 

Less lube is more friction and therefore heat, the clicking noise is vibration. All of which is transferred to the bearing and can cause premature wear and failure. The bearing is exposed during axle removal, reducing total labor doing them together vs. separately.

 

Do not touch right side axle! If boot is good,axle will last well over 100k. Change axles only if boot is torn or joint is clicking. Buy a rebuilt for left side (NO EMPIS, boots don't last i.e. they rip faster than any brand I have ever used, 8k/20k). Save old axle and buy a quality boot repair kit (no empi) / repair axle at your leisure / save and use when needed. Keep and repair your VOLVO axles with good boots! I use high mileage junkyard Volvos before any new remans. if boot is not torn. It's all about the boots /good boots = good axles.

Just my opinion from changing Volvo axles with remans (many times).

 

I disagree. Go to Napa and pick up a Napa rebuilt (they are OEM rebuilt Volvo axles)

20 minute swap out and your done. $56

 

That's a stretch. I've done dozens and dozens of CV boots and never once had a car come back with a bearing because of it.

At least you're not double dipping on the labor

 

I admit that it doesn't always happen, especially if caught and fixed early, but we list it as preventative... most of our clientele wait till near failure to replace stuff.

I've bought a $50k car but "a $25 oil change and inspection isn't worth 30 min of my time every 3k miles or 3 months." "Timing belts, spark plugs, coolant flushes and air filters? Haven't they figured out how to make them last the life of the car?" "What's a maintenance interval and why does it cost so much?" "I didn't drive it that hard" (with 2 bald tires in the front and and 8/32 in the back)

My personal favorite:
"Tell me these brakes are good enough to make my 800 mile road trip tonight. I know they make a funny noise but it's OK, right?" with 0mm in the front pads, rotors gouged to hell and 2mm in the back...

 

Do not touch right side axle! If the boots are good and it's not clicking then that OE axle with 57k has lots of miles to go.
Follow boxpin's advice (NAPA OEM rebuilt axle) for the left side axle with the torn boot.