THROTTLE CONTROLS
THROTTLE SWITCH
Checking
Open throttle slightly and listen for a click. Click
indicates throttle switch opens.
Adjusting
Ensure throttle valve is closed. Loosen TPS retaining screws.
Turn TPS switch clockwise slightly. Turn TPS switch back again until a
click is heard. Tighten retaining screws. Recheck setting. Open
throttle slightly, a click should be heard. Click indicates switch is activating.

So I was trying to follow the above directions but I can not get the TPS to move in ether direction. What am I doing wrong?

 

You move the throttle, not the switch.

 

Opening and closing the throttle did not get the switch to click on and off so I was trying to adjust the sensor as per the instructions.

 

I was looking around on the internet about this and saw some sites that said on a 95 that I would not hear a click when testing the TPS and some said I would. Some sites also said I can adjust this and some said it is not adjustable.
Can anyone tell me for sure what is true? Will it click? Can I adjust this?

 

With some TPS switches you need to hook up a scanner or a voltmeter and adjust the position of the TPS in relation to the throttle plate to a set voltage value. On those the TPS usually has elongated holes to allow for such adjustment. On the 850 the mount and TPS do not allow for any adjustment. It simply bolts down.

Did you get these instructions for a 2.3L 850 or something else? Where did they come from?

This is what I have for testing. Nothing about it being adjustable. Normally you can attach an ohm meter to two of the contacts and watch for the resistance to smoothly increase or decrease. A TPS is like a household dimmer switch. It's just a rheostat with windings and when they go bad you can get no signal or you can get a single dead spot. That dead spot is what you would be looking for as you sweep the switch from one stop to the other.
Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
1) Connect Breakout Box (981-3190) and Adapter (981-3195) to
fuel injection ECU. See Fig. 1. DO NOT measure resistance and voltage
at ECU connector. Before disconnecting/connecting control unit
connector, disconnect negative battery cable.
2) Remove ECU cover located in right front engine
compartment. Remove both fuel injection and distributor ignition ECUs
located in right front of engine compartment. Press adapter into ECU
base. Position adapter lead at rear of ECUs and thread through slot
next to distributor ignition module.
3) Press distributor ignition ECU into position first to
avoid damage to adapter lead. Press fuel injection control unit, with
adapter connected, into connector in bottom of ECU box. Connect
breakout box to adapter 60-pin connector.
4) To check TP sensor signal, connect voltmeter between
breakout box terminals No. 1 and 14. Turn ignition on. Voltmeter
should indicate about .6 volt in idling position and about 4.2 volts
in full-load position. Turn ignition off.
5) If signal is not present or not to specification, connect
voltmeter between breakout box terminals No. 2 and 20. Turn ignition
on. Voltmeter should indicate about 5 volts. Turn ignition off. To
check ground, connect ohmmeter between breakout box terminals No. 14
and 20. Ohmmeter should indicate about zero ohms.
6) If no voltage was present or ground is faulty, check
wiring for short to ground or voltage. If wiring is okay, repeat test
using new fuel injection ECU. If voltage supply was present and ground
is okay, go to next step and TP sensor resistance.
7) Ensure ignition is off. Measure resistance between
breakout box terminals No. 14 and 2. Resistance should be about 1800-
2200 ohms. Connect ohmmeter between terminals No. 14 and 1. Ohmmeter
should indicate about 1000 ohms when throttle is at idle position and
about 2600 ohms when throttle is at full load.
8) If resistance is incorrect or zero, measure directly at TP
sensor connector to determine if fault is in switch or wiring. Replace
sensor as necessary.

 

The instructions are for an 850 turbo on an online manual. I will find the site when I am home tonight.
Thank you for the test info, I will check my TPS with that this weekend. I did put a new TPS in the car last saturday so it is probably good but I never could hear the clicking that people were refering to. Putting the bottom screw in was a real pain, a 5 minute project took over an hour just because of that. Somewhere in my driveway are about 5 little screws that I can't find.

 

I think someone has you confused as I've never had a TPS "click". It's not an on off switch it's a linear progressive resistance. There might be an idle switch that tells a computer when the throttle is closed but I'm thinking I remembered something like that on computer controlled carbureated systems but not on a fuel injected engine.

In the pictures you can see the first one just has mounting holes and just bolts in. The second one has the mounts that are adjustable so you can rotate the TPS to adjust it.

Anyone else who has done some TPS replacements ever remember having a TPS click ??

Has nothing to do with this but if you think our (850s) TPS is hard to get to check out this BMW !!
TPS replacement (pictures inside) - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com)

 

OH that BMW just looks like a real pain. I guess I have had it easy for the past 5 or so years, we have been driving an 83 Mercedes diesel and almost everything on it is easily accessible. This Volvo will be a learning experience.

 

I guess the PCV system is "our" pain in the butt. To test a TPS the easiest way is to just hook up to it with an ohm meter when you have it off and slowly rotate it through its full range a few times as sometimes the "glitch" you're looking for is very very small. I've had some where it's a big pit and you loose the TPS signal for a bit of travel. Like everything else it's different with each part but if it drops the signal at all no matter how small it's bad.
You might be able to hook up to it with it on the vehicle and read volts with the ignition on. I would advise against using anything that penetrates the insulation.