Just a thought, I haven't changed the tranny fluid in my '97 850 T5 since I got it last July. Miles are 110K+. Fluid looks good, shifts are imperceptible. Do you think I should drain and fill with fresh fluid? Or leave it alone (if it's not broken don't fix it)?

 

I would change it. After I put my own fluids in it, then I put the car on a scheduled service interval.

 

+1

I do the same thing.

 

Ok, change not flush, right? I've read horror stories about flushing. What type of fluid you guys recommend?

 

3 options (change/flush):

1- Filler tube method: basically disconnect the cooler lines, run the transm, feed fluid from one tube and collect from the other. This should be in the stickies.

2- Drain and Fill 3 or 4 times in rapid succession: When you drain from the pan, you remove about 1/3 of fluid. Drain, then fill, then drive for 15-20 minutes, drain and and fill gain. Do this 3 or 4 times.

3- Drain and Fill: every time you do the oil change (3000-5000 miles).

I got this Volvo in June and it was shifting hard; fluid was not new. Did option 3, twice so far. Proper shifting is almost restored now. I will be doing it again in Mar / Apr oil change. In the summer, I plan to add an aux cooler and magnafine filter. I have used Supertech from Walmart. People at BobOilGuy report good things for this fluid and it is not expensive. After the upgrade (aux cooler and inline filter) I will be filling it with all new Mobil or some other synthetic.

I would not go near power-flush (backflush) machines.

 

sounds good, thanks for the replies. I just wish these automatic gearboxes were a little smarter(hold revs after full throttle lift-off)....

 

You have to remember though Vmax....this car, when initially built, wasnt made for holding a gear at full throttle. These were built to get the kids to soccer in relative comfort and quiet.

Henry has been dead on correct on the suggestions....I have found that removing the trans cooler lines and swapping fluid that way was the best way to go. While you're there, replace the o-rings on the ends of the lines too. When I flushed mine, I noticed that I had a minor leak around them. New o-rings and problem solved.

Also not the worst idea in the world to have extra clamps for the lines on hand. They break easy, and they arent that expensive to replace. I'm speaking of the circle clips that hold the lines to the trans cooler.

 

I understand that the market this car is aimed at has sports driving on the backburner, so is my 99 camry but that holds gears longer (after full throttle lift) than my T5...

I ended up incorrectly stretching the metal oil cooler line clamp (when doing my first oil change back in sept.) too much which ultimately blew off when I started up the car....heard a pop, after about 3-4 seconds heard and saw oil was gushing from the line, then heard piston rings scraping against the cylinder walls while hustling back to turn the car off!!

Got the two clamps at the dealer for $9 each, read up on how to put them on correctly and installed the gearbox cooler clamp after mistakenly draining it completely which was about 20-25 drops of fluid, refilling it, then putting on the gearbox clamp on, but putting on the oil cooler line clamp on backwards. I figured whatever i'll redo it next oil change. It's been 4 months and the backward clamp is on just fine.

How many o-rings did you change?

 

When I did mine, i did the o-ring thats on each trans cooler line and each oil cooler line. I had the radiator and intercooler out because I was changing the condensor so i did all of them as a "while im there" type thing, since all the o rings and clamps were only like 25 bucks from FCP.

 

Harborfreight, or Benny's (North East) sell the Snap Ring Pliers Set for $ 5 - $ 7. They come with several tips for various jobs. One of these tips is the right tool for unhooking and mounting these clamps. I ended up replacing them with worm clamps (and new fittings) on the Oil Cooler lines.

 

cool info. i'll pick up the Snap Ring Pliers Set on my next oil change.