Vibration with noise during braking (sometimes)
#1
Vibration with noise during braking (sometimes)
I have a weird problem where the car I recently purchased will vibrate from the right side while braking. I lifted the car and pulled each wheel to test the wheel bearings and there is no play. The rear shocks are new, front shocks are good, car is aligned, and wheels are balanced. It feels like my brake caliper or rotor is loose causing the vibration (is that even possible?) I don't have any metallic noises and don't know what it could be. Sometimes it is smooth and quiet, other times it vibrates (mostly once the brakes warm up but maybe I haven' noticed it cold) any ideas? I would think bad rotors are obvious all the tIme
#4
The term "typical" makes me happy. I didn't notice significant steering wheel vibrations and I do think it was coming from the rear. Hopefully that is the correct diagnosis but I will buy a tool to measure. This car is new to me and I am still learning the problems. Also when I have the rear end up, only the passenger side wheel locks when I have the parking brake on. This will be a good time to adjust the driver's side parking brake cable. Thanks!
#5
#6
I just looked at the service history and it says the rear rotors and calipers were replaced/serviced 3,000 miles and 5 months ago. Is it possible for them to get thin/warped so quickly? Also when I purchased the car, the rear shocks needed replacing and the right rear shock mount was loosely attached to the shock and moving around a few mm. After repairing this and having a quiet car I noticed the vibrations during braking. Maybe that caused premature rotor failure? I'll buy a measuring caliper after work today and see what I'm dealing with. Perhaps the shop never even replaced the rotors but charged for them, or they cut them instead of replace.
Last edited by zpmada; 06-29-2012 at 05:30 AM.
#9
#10
photos
I finally got around to measuring the rotor with a caliper. This caliper might not be completely accurate since it is also measuring the thin area that does not come in contact with the pad. This area feels nearly even with the area that contacts the pad. I have attached photos. Does anything look wrong? What else should I check? A few things I noticed:
1.) The tire that came with the car had a flat spot. Perhaps the caliper froze and burned the tire? I'm not sure how this could relate to anything.
2.) The rear shock was loosely mounted, or the shock mount was blown on this side in the rear. Could this suspension play cause the rotor to warp after 3k miles?
I'm out of ideas. I turned the rotor several times and took measurements at 5 points. The numbers don't look that different to me.
What is glazing, and how would a history of that cause vibrating now? What causes it and how is it corrected?
Thanks
1.) The tire that came with the car had a flat spot. Perhaps the caliper froze and burned the tire? I'm not sure how this could relate to anything.
2.) The rear shock was loosely mounted, or the shock mount was blown on this side in the rear. Could this suspension play cause the rotor to warp after 3k miles?
I'm out of ideas. I turned the rotor several times and took measurements at 5 points. The numbers don't look that different to me.
What is glazing, and how would a history of that cause vibrating now? What causes it and how is it corrected?
Thanks
#12
Glazing is when the rotor gets over heated and creates smooth spots on the rotor. under breaking smooth to rough, smooth to rough is what causes the humming
Which it looks like yours is from that first picture.
Looks like you should be ok to get them cut at least once more I believe the minimum thickness is 8.25..
But for the cost of cutting them, and possibly going to thin... you might as well just replace both rear rotors and pads.. you will notice the difference right away.
Plus grease up all those pivot points and slide pins
Which it looks like yours is from that first picture.
Looks like you should be ok to get them cut at least once more I believe the minimum thickness is 8.25..
But for the cost of cutting them, and possibly going to thin... you might as well just replace both rear rotors and pads.. you will notice the difference right away.
Plus grease up all those pivot points and slide pins
#13
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