Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Vibration during braking and Feels a lil Floaty

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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 12:43 PM
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Default Vibration during braking and Feels a lil Floaty

I get a vibration during braking mainly around 40-60 on heavy braking. recently i replaces my strut nuts as they were old and one was more or less strip. but since i did that the car seems floaty now and the braking vibration has gotten worse. struts are bilsteins less than a year old control arms same deal and strut mounts and spring seats. strut mounts and bilsteins i went for the cheaper ones at the time because thats all i could afford.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 01:22 PM
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Did you get an alignment after that suspension work? Get your rotors turned?
 
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 01:54 PM
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brakes are also less then a year. and no havent gotten an alignment yet
 
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 10:25 PM
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If you didn't seat the control arms before you torqued them down, they may already be bad. Jack the car and see if you get any control arm movement at the frame bushings.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 11:04 PM
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what do you mean by seat? i checked for movement the other day and it all seemed nice and tight
 
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 09:47 PM
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what do you mean by seat? i put the control arm in the slots ran the bolts thru hooked it to the knuckle then bolted them down
 
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 10:55 AM
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Had a similar issue. Replaced the lower control arms as the ball joints were shot. Fixed the problem
 
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 11:23 AM
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I have not experienced this myself but this is how it was explained to me. I was also told this is in the repair mainual as "how to correctly do the job".

When you jack the car to remove the control arm, as you well know, the wheel drops as the car raises, causing the suspension to be extended. This is an un-natural position. So, when you install the new control arm, it will be sagging. If you torque the arm bolts (against the frame) while the arm is sagging, they are being positioned in the extened position. When you let the car down (job done), the bushing will be twisted and have torque on them. This continued torque will cause pre-mature failure of the bushing. So, what you are suppose to do is this... Install the arm but DO NOT torque it. Install the wheel and lower the car to the ground or raise the wheel to it's natural resting position, THEN TORQUE the control arm so that it is secure in it's natural resting position. Thus turqueing the part on in it's SEAT position.

When I do mine (soon), I plan to put the control arm on, not tighten the (frame bolts) just snug them. Then drive around the block and drive the car on ramps, then torque them down.

Hope that makes sense.
 

Last edited by rspi; Feb 15, 2012 at 11:27 AM. Reason: clarify
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 02:12 PM
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ah makes sense, im going to check them again, i know they're the cheaper ones but hopefully not bad after a year..lol
 
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 02:18 PM
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i also hear a creaking from the drivers front tower when turning in a parking lot, and once and while hear a knock when turning at around like 10-15 mph
 
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 09:48 PM
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Correction, it's called PRE-LOAD not SEAT.

As for the creaking, I'm pretty sure I've read that it's your strut seat that causes that noise.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 10:52 PM
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which are also less than a year old but are oem lol, my suspension hates me
 
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 08:56 AM
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Were the strut mounts replaced with the spring seats?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 08:37 PM
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yes they were
 
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 91shelby
i also hear a creaking from the drivers front tower when turning in a parking lot, and once and while hear a knock when turning at around like 10-15 mph
Upper strut mount going out ??
 
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 03:20 AM
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the upper strut mounts and spring seats and struts and control arms were all replaced around the same time.
 
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