Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Volvo 850 transmission issues... HELP PLEASE!

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  #41  
Old 02-19-2013, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 262740850
Thank you for the new replies, I guess I will drain the fluid when I get a chance and refill with the same amount. I did check the level yesterday according the Volvo Way and it was good. Regarding the drain, isn't there a panel like a mud guard to remove first? Also, I think I need to get a new washer for the plug, correct?

Regarding the tranny, if something was broken, would it trigger a code / CEL? Could such a code be read with a normal OBDII reader?
For the record, the tranny is not leaking.

The idea of an air pocket in the tranny makes sense but remember that the car shifts properly, when I go from one gear to another, the shifting is smooth and nearly immediate, the only very slight roughness is when you go to R which I believe is normal.

Finally, why did I siphon fluid from the dipstick tube? Dunno.... because it works and since they sell pumps for that purpose, I tried... and thought it was not a big deal.
the tranny fluid needs to be drained from the drain plug. the drain plug has a magnet that retracts dirt in the tranny. with the drain plug removed you will see dirt on the plug that needs to be cleaned. when you drain the fluid mostly all the remaining dirt will drain. syphoning through the tube wont get all the dirt out plus the drain plug has dirt on it that needs cleaning.
if something broke in the tranny definitely that will trigger a check engine code. this is the right way to do it. its not hard. you can either get an ipd transmission flush kit or you can make one for urself.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...pic.php?t=8767
 
  #42  
Old 02-19-2013, 12:44 PM
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That siphon method is the only way to do a LOF on most boats. It's a very common method but not common on cars as there is adequate room to drain from below. Doing the siphon should not have been any different to the transmission than pulling the plug.
I DIY flushed mine so I actually used the transmission to push the fluid through itself and out. I'd let it idle and row through the gears and wait till it started to show bubbles in the drain line. The bubbles showed it had run out of fluid and was sucking air. Added the same amount back in and repeated two more times. Mine ran fine and this method is common also. I don't think you have an air bubble someplace as a transmission runs too high an internal pressure not to push bubbles out almost immediately.

There's snow out there and you want me sliding under the car for a shot of the drain plug ??
Try this: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...pic.php?t=8767

Does the stock drain plug have a magnet ?? I didn't think so but I flushed mine so I didn't take it out (yet).

Yes, new gasket is always a good idea on both oil and trans drain plugs. They use the same gasket 18mm. Engine Oil Drain Plug Seal (18 X 24 X 1.5 mm) Volvo Part Number: 977751.
You should be able to pick one up at an auto parts store too. They might not be able to pull it up on computer but it's just an 18mm washer they would have with oil change accessories.

If something failed there should be a check engine light. If it's slipping from age and wear then there might not be a light as the transmission might not "see" it slipping yet till it gets worse. A certain amount of slippage in a transmission is normal but at some point the computer knows it's abnormal.

Draining it and trying again is the best and least expensive thing to do at this point. Just to be sure, I'd try and use only one brand and one type, DEX/MERC would be good.

Not sure on Volvo's specifically, but on most vehicles some of the transmission codes will come up on an OBDII reader.
 
Attached Thumbnails Volvo 850 transmission issues... HELP PLEASE!-transmission-fluid-dex-mec-valvo.jpg  

Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 02-19-2013 at 12:56 PM.
  #43  
Old 02-19-2013, 01:27 PM
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I will tell you the #1 reason I did the siphon "method", it's simply because I broke a finger 10 days ago on my right hand and being right handed, I did not want to go under the car and hurt myself even more... beside I can't use much strength on that hand or it kills me!
I will do everything you guys suggest. The tranny issue is definitely not a shifting issue, it's a slipping issue, just like I wrote before, it's behaving exactly like a standard car with a worn out clutch.
The car was running so fine, I kinda wish I never touched that damn tranny!
 
  #44  
Old 02-19-2013, 02:44 PM
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Using the siphon is just odd to some people and if you can get to the plug you do get more fluid and likely more of the crap out as that is what settles to the bottom. I've worked on boats so I'm comfortable with siphoning. Some fast lube places use it because they don't have to touch the drain plug where they can make a mistake or cause a problem. When you take out a cross threaded drain plug it's near impossible to get a customer to understand it came out that way. Especially if it's so stripped you can't get it to go back in or tighten up and it's going to cost extra.

But, using the siphon in no way created or added to your problem. IMHO

You can always call around and find a shop or AAMCO to do a free diag. Since your car is driveable it would allow someone with knowledge to hear and feel the problem first hand. ??

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you.
 
  #45  
Old 02-19-2013, 02:51 PM
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Thank you!!!
To get to the drain plug, do I have to remove a mud guard under the car? I think I read something about this.... ???
 
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 262740850
Thank you!!!
To get to the drain plug, do I have to remove a mud guard under the car? I think I read something about this.... ???
jack up the car,you dont have to remove the mud guard get under the car and right to the left looking up under the car you should see a drain plug on the transmission block. looks like this
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...=266&mode=view
 
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:11 PM
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by slimflex2
jack up the car,you dont have to remove the mud guard get under the car and right to the left looking up under the car you should see a drain plug on the transmission block. looks like this
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...=266&mode=view
Got it! Thanks!
 
  #49  
Old 02-19-2013, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 262740850
Got it! Thanks!
drain it and refill it with another fluid if you can afford. if not use the same fluid and see if that helps.
 
  #50  
Old 02-19-2013, 03:29 PM
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I will get that Mobil 1 fluid if I can find it.
 
  #51  
Old 02-19-2013, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 262740850
I will get that Mobil 1 fluid if I can find it.
this is what l have in my car.

Mobil 1 112980-CASE Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart, (Pack of 6) : Amazon.com : Automotive Mobil 1 112980-CASE Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart, (Pack of 6) : Amazon.com : Automotive

or you can go just valvoline
 
  #52  
Old 02-19-2013, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by slimflex2

I got the same Mobil 1, hope it helps!
 
  #53  
Old 02-19-2013, 06:33 PM
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keep us updated buddy. good luck
 
  #54  
Old 02-19-2013, 06:36 PM
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A drain and fill will only get 1/2 of the fluid out. The thoery is that 3 drain and fills will get 87.5% of the fluid changed. Also, it's the most gentle method.

As for the Mob 1 fluid, I wouldn't do it. You already have issues, I would go with what is primarily in there. Matter of fact, I use the cheapest stuff on the market. Super Tech stuff from Wal-Mart. I buy 3 gallons of it and do my drain and fills.

The drain plug in the tranny is NOT on the bottom, it points to the passenger side. NOT behind or under a splash pan. I would drain the tranny from the plug and ADD BACK 3.75 quarts as I stated above. Some say add back what you pull out, well, what if it was low on fluid? What if you had to much in there? So, when I add back 3.75 quarts and drive the car to warm up the tranny, then check the fluid as described in the owners manual, it's at the proper level.

Yes the drain plug DOES HAVE A MAGNET in it. So when you pull the drain plug you will find all metal particales attached to it. Most of the stuff is fine and soft like graphite. Only worry about the plug washer on the last fill.

Again, I'm not a tranny pro, just glad I do not have problems now. I had my tranny replaced about 19 months ago. It was bad and the fluid was near black, like dark muddy water. Had no 1st gear and 2nd was slipping. It would not down shift when I punched it and had no torque. Yes it sucked for a turbo to drive like that but the tranny was bad when I purchased the car (I knew it was bad). I drove the car with the bad tranny for 3 months, 2,500 miles.

Please remember that you can alway put off preventative maintenance until you are able to safely do it. Oil changes are the only thing I won't gamble with. The PCV went 3 months before I changed it, control arms went 8 or 9 months, tranny flush after the change went 15,000 miles when I wanted to do it at 5,000. So, don't hurt yourself doing work on your car, especially if there is no driving issues. My daughter had torn CV boots for 6 months before I changed them.

Hope something gives with the tranny. Most of what you need to do to these cars can be found on this site and www.MatthewsVolvoSite.com. I usually find instructions here and use them. I think the pump is NOT building the proper pressure so it's causing the tranny to slip. Speed sensors should pick up the slipping and report a code. I do NOT think a regular code reader will read the tranny codes on a POST OBD-1 Volvo.
 
  #55  
Old 02-19-2013, 06:58 PM
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Ok I replaced 3 3/4 of the fluid through draining (bought that super expensive Mobil one) :-(

, checked the level which is good. Anyway, did not make any difference, still running like I am pulling a 1000 lbs Gorilla... having no CEL and no codes going off I am out of ideas....
I am wondering if something happened with the engine around the same time I changed the tranny fluid (part of it that is)....
Back to square one again!
 
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:04 PM
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Disconnect the battery negative cable for about an hour. That should reset the system if it is hiding some code.
 
  #57  
Old 02-19-2013, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rspi
Disconnect the battery negative cable for about an hour. That should reset the system if it is hiding some code.
Did that 3 days ago and it did not make any difference....
 
  #58  
Old 02-19-2013, 08:02 PM
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It's free, you should try it again. Leave it disconnected overnight.
 
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by kiss4afrog
it's free, you should try it again. Leave it disconnected overnight.
ok! Will do!
 
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 262740850
ok! Will do!
when you reconnect the battery back tomorrow and still doesnt make any difference l would suggest you take it to a tranny shop for diagnosing. they can drive and give you a better idea on whats going on. post whatever they tell you up here and see if we could give you ideas on what to do. am keeping my figures crossed for you.
 


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