Yellow is dead!!! But now alive!
#24
09-05-2010, 06:34 AM
#25
09-05-2010, 04:20 PM
Ok I have an update.
This is what started it all.(What I was doing)(Vid quality kind of sucks not sure why)
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...t=DSCI0792.mp4
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...t=DSCI0791.mp4
Then today I went in and dropped the pan and this is what I saw.
There was more but it fell before I took the pic.
Not a good sign!
If you look closely in the next pic you can see the bearing between the rod and crank
Next is a pic of the bearings stuck on the crank. They were welded together.
The crank after the bearing is out(crank scored bad)
Bearings after I pryed them off the crank.
Now knowing that I need to pull the motor I started tearing it down.
And where I had to call it a day after getting the head off.
Now I need to buy a set of main bearing and rod bearings.
I have a block at work with a good crank and rods in it. I am going to put all that in my block and all new bearings. Then when I put the head back on N/A cams will be going in as well. That is about all I can afford to do right now as far as upgrades.
If I had won the Lotto it would be getting H-beam rods and an R exhaust manifold as well as a few other goodies.
But since I did not win the lotto it is going back together as stock for now.
I have been looking for a 2001 and up T5 block and crank with rods. That would have been an upgrade as well. Basically in 01 on the T5 motors they went to long rods. The moved the wrist pin higher in the piston and made the rods longer. Doing that made the assembly stronger and able to handle more pressure. But I cannot find one at all so stock it goes.
This is what started it all.(What I was doing)(Vid quality kind of sucks not sure why)
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...t=DSCI0792.mp4
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...t=DSCI0791.mp4
Then today I went in and dropped the pan and this is what I saw.
There was more but it fell before I took the pic.
Not a good sign!
If you look closely in the next pic you can see the bearing between the rod and crank
Next is a pic of the bearings stuck on the crank. They were welded together.
The crank after the bearing is out(crank scored bad)
Bearings after I pryed them off the crank.
Now knowing that I need to pull the motor I started tearing it down.
And where I had to call it a day after getting the head off.
Now I need to buy a set of main bearing and rod bearings.
I have a block at work with a good crank and rods in it. I am going to put all that in my block and all new bearings. Then when I put the head back on N/A cams will be going in as well. That is about all I can afford to do right now as far as upgrades.
If I had won the Lotto it would be getting H-beam rods and an R exhaust manifold as well as a few other goodies.
But since I did not win the lotto it is going back together as stock for now.
I have been looking for a 2001 and up T5 block and crank with rods. That would have been an upgrade as well. Basically in 01 on the T5 motors they went to long rods. The moved the wrist pin higher in the piston and made the rods longer. Doing that made the assembly stronger and able to handle more pressure. But I cannot find one at all so stock it goes.
#33
09-07-2010, 07:16 AM
Hey Tech, I have a few questions... Just data collections I guess. I believe you, being a mechanic, have a well maintained car and yet you had major mechanical engine failure. I know it is rare but just courious about the situations prior. This may help us know what we may face:
1. How often did you do oil changes?
2. How many miles did the car have when you got it?
3. How many miles does the car have now, at failure?
4. What type of oil do you use, type and wieght?
5. When you craced the motor open, was there any evidance of sluge, etc.?
6. Typically, did you drive the car hard, above 4,000 rpm often, weekly?
7. Does it seem that there are a lot of things in the motor that is worn and would likely fail soon as well?
Just trying to get a feel for what the controlable conditions were. Most of us have less than 200,000 miles on our cars, just wondering what we should expect.
1. How often did you do oil changes?
2. How many miles did the car have when you got it?
3. How many miles does the car have now, at failure?
4. What type of oil do you use, type and wieght?
5. When you craced the motor open, was there any evidance of sluge, etc.?
6. Typically, did you drive the car hard, above 4,000 rpm often, weekly?
7. Does it seem that there are a lot of things in the motor that is worn and would likely fail soon as well?
Just trying to get a feel for what the controlable conditions were. Most of us have less than 200,000 miles on our cars, just wondering what we should expect.
Last edited by rspi; 01-10-2012 at 11:29 AM. Reason: typo
#34
09-07-2010, 02:40 PM
I can not answer for tech, but I bought a 94 850 Turbo when it was practically new, had 9800 miles on it. I changed the oil myself about every 3,000 miles. It may have gone 4,000 a couple times, but never 5,000. I used regular oil, never synthetic and the engine went at 203K. Just one day driving to work it started rapping with no previous problems or sounds whatsoever.
I still kick myself in the butt for not replacing the engine. But I would not have the white one had I fixed that one. I would have the yellow one though which I bought later, just because I found it and got a good deal.
I still kick myself in the butt for not replacing the engine. But I would not have the white one had I fixed that one. I would have the yellow one though which I bought later, just because I found it and got a good deal.
#35
09-07-2010, 08:22 PM
Hey Tech, I have a few questions... Just data collections I guess. I believe you, being a mechanic, has a well maintained car and yet you had major mechanical engine failure. I know it is rare but just courious about the situations prior. This may help us know what we may face:
1. How often did you do oil changes?
2. How many miles did the car have when you got it?
3. How many miles does the car have now, at failure?
4. What type of oil do you use, type and wieght?
5. When you craced the motor open, was there any evidance of sluge, etc.?
6. Typically, did you drive the car hard, above 4,000 rpm often, weekly?
7. Does it seem that there are a lot of things in the motor that is worn and would likely fail soon as well?
Just trying to get a feel for what the controlable conditions were. Most of us have less than 200,000 miles on our cars, just wondering what we should expect.
1. How often did you do oil changes?
2. How many miles did the car have when you got it?
3. How many miles does the car have now, at failure?
4. What type of oil do you use, type and wieght?
5. When you craced the motor open, was there any evidance of sluge, etc.?
6. Typically, did you drive the car hard, above 4,000 rpm often, weekly?
7. Does it seem that there are a lot of things in the motor that is worn and would likely fail soon as well?
Just trying to get a feel for what the controlable conditions were. Most of us have less than 200,000 miles on our cars, just wondering what we should expect.
2. Got the car at 83K.
3. Car has 140K on it now.
4. Kendal 10/30 semi synthetic (But after this going to 20/50)
5. Everything else in the motor looks good. All other bearings look like new.
6. I drove the car somewhat hard. Not like a grandpa and not like I stole it.
7. Nothing else so far looks like it is going to fail. Once I open the motor the rest of the way I will take a bunch of pics. I should be pulling the motor on sunday.
#38
09-12-2010, 08:11 AM
#39
09-12-2010, 06:14 PM
#40
09-13-2010, 01:15 PM
Wow! Looks like a lot of work. When my brother use to get them torn down to that stage, we would find them in his guess bathroom tub. Maybe you can take it home, put it in the tub that the kids use, then work on it daily until it's ready to go back in. Unless you have girls over the age of 12, the kids probably wont mind not having to take a bath. LOL