New to the forum. My friend has a 2008 C30 which needs struts all the way around.

My question is should I get the whole assembly or just replace the strut?

Thanks in advanced!

 

Personally I'd do the struts and replace the items like the mounts, dust boots etc. No reason to replace the coils. I'd also keep to OEM or better quality, particularly in the front.

 

I've check high and low for Complete Assemblies for the front and no one carries them so you have take them apart and piecemeal. I've yet to do mine but it is in need of it. As for the rear they are shock absorbers not struts. The spring is separate from the damper. Bilsteins were used and they are slightly stiff but is excellent. If you go with FCP they have a lifetime warranty on all parts including motor oil and filter if you so choose to deal with the mess to send back.
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Thank you for your reply.

I'm going to go with the struts, I'll be ordering from Rock.
Any recommendations on the brand to get?

And what is FCP?

 

fcpeuro.com is a leading provider of Volvo parts. You can also shop IPDUSA.com In terms of brand, OEM is Boge/Sachs. Bilstein makes a couple of versions including the B6 (consider this an upgrade) as well as their Touring (similar design to OEM). As for the related parts, Febi is a reliable brand for bushings/mounts as well as genuine Volvo.

 

Bilsteins if you dont mind paying a smidge more without paying coilover price.

and reuse coils, or buy a set of H&R sport springs and prebuild your own strut assemblies........

 

If you are uncomfortable with building the struts and using a spring compressor, you can have a local indy shop do the bench work while you do the removal/install from the car. That should save you a couple of hours of shop labor.

 

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Ok, I just order a set of these at $18.99 with a $2.99 2YR Square Trade Warranty totally $23.36 delivered from this seller. He has raised the price back to where everyone else is selling this strut.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shock-Absor...72.m2749.l2649
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ECCCP is selling it at double the price but has a lifetime warranty.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Left-...902c%7Ciid%3A1
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These will also work on the C30. Check out video link for removal.
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Monroe Complete Assembly
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Monroe Complete Assembly
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How to remove your strut on a Volvo C30, S40, V50, and C70
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Volvos are typically hard on front struts, just be ready to replace them again after 50K miles.

 

Would that also apply to the factory Sach, Bilstein, Meyles or other better known brands? I know the earlier ones were hard on engine mounts and upper spring seats/mounts.

 

I've used both Bilstein and Sach for 100K+ miles on a set so that's my first choice (in fact my only fail was on a front Bilstein when the spring perch rusted out - I guess 10+ years of New England salted roads will do that... Yeah the older 850/V70/XCs had issues with the spring seats so on those the best choice is factory OEM or use IPD's heavy duty seat. The newer models use a different design seat/bushing that doesn't the the same point of failure so not a worry on the C30s.

 

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Great to know thanks! I won't buy new ones before taking it apart to replace the struts as the current don't seem to be having any issues, just bumpy on the passenger side when encountering ruts.

 

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Found a cheap set of Struts on eBay which normally goes for around $65 dollar. Installed the passenger side first as it was already leaking when we purchased it 1.5 years ago. On your input I didn't order a set of Strut Mount and Bearings. The original Ford units were still turning well with a little grit inside. Took it apart and cleaned it and repack with Brake and Caliper Grease. Smooth and quiet on the road. Will install the driver's side today.
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Loan a premium spring compressor from Advance which had a $299 deposit. Did not work well and wasted a lot of time so will go back to borrow the $60 deposit unit today.
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Installed the driver's side using the $60 deposit loaner tool and it worked much better. Don't have to anticipate bottoming out on bumpy roads any more. Should have done it much sooner. Can enjoy the drive now instead of watching the road as if you are preparing for that steep dive on the roller coaster ride with the pit in your stomach waiting for that big thump in the suspension.
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Thanks for all the info ended up ordering the strut kit from FCP EURO. Willbe installing this weekend.
Was also going to order that spring compressor from Amazon but delivery date is not till April 17th so I'll just rent from AZ.

08C30T5_2.0 How long did it take you for the install?

 

It took way, way too long. Here is where you will spend your time and if you get this right you'll be a very happy camper. I don't like to use force, meaning striking the knuckle with a hammer. Lube everything not to get it on the caliper and pads. Cover it with a towel as our strut was leaking for a long time so it was full of dirt and grime while on the other side the broken CV boot grease everything.

The video show the guy making a tool to spread the bottom of the steering knuckle so the strut will slip out. That is a must! Even if you can hammer it out you still need to put it back in. Go over Pelican's link also but you don't need to remove the bottom nut of Sway Bar link, it is not necessary.
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https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
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The hook is where the nut passes through the knuckle. The remainder of the strut is farther down. There is room from the back at the lower portion of the knuckle to insert a tool as in the Video to spread the knuckle and the hook won't be in the way. The Green Arrow in the second photo is pointing to the Red Arrow in the first photo.




Best to insert a tool to spread the knuckle.



I inserted a clear tube (or hose) with a cut out / flap folded at the end in case the spring ever bumps the strut perch end and cause noise. The flap is also side ways so water drains and is not trapped. I suppose that would be a problem only in areas where there are harsh winters.





When you remove the strut mount double check to see where the spring rest on the bearing as it is wedged / angle shaped. Our car drives fine but let us know if we installed it correctly as we assume the top of the spring had an obvious place like the perch on the strut for the bottom of the spring to rest. We used the protrusion to match the top of the spring's end.




Lastly, be sure the strut bottoms out into the knuckle at the welded piece on the strut.