I have a friend that is leaving the country and dragged his feet on selling his car. He offered it to me and I'm wondering if I should buy it. The details...

-2000 C70 HT Coupe
-5 spd manual
-100K miles
-Body in good shape (usual paint chips in front hood due to years of highway driving)
-Interior in great shape

Issues:
-Driver and passenger windows don't operate (assuming window regulators)
-Will need tires soon
-Suspension is a little tired
-Not sure when/if timing belt was done (I'm assuming it hasn't but will find out today)

Questions:
1. I can get this car for $2K. Does this sound like a deal? I'm assuming $1,200 would fix the window regulators (or at least allow me to buy the parts to fix this).
2. I've read that you want to buy the Volvo window regulators. Is there a preferred place on the internet to orders these? I've seen the list of vendors but they don't seem to carry the regulators for the C70 Coupe.
3. I'll find out if both windows stopped working at the same time or at different times. If they stopped working at the same time, where should I look to debug?
4. Is changing the timing belt pretty straightforward? I've changed timing belts in other cars. What else should I do while I'm in there? Any service manuals that are recommended for the C70?

Thanks in advance!

 

2k is a good price, but you are right in that you will need to put more than that into it to get it up to spec. Would check fuses and the switches first since both windows stopped working. 2000 is also a model that will eventually have the etm fail. Timing belt is straight forward job. Spring seats and sway bar endlinks will need to be replaced among other things.

 

mkc70, thanks for the reply! I'm new to Volvos and is seems like the C70 Coupe is a pretty rare car and therefore might be a car to avoid. I'm entering this deal with the understanding that it will require some money and time to get it right. Thanks again!

 

Unfortunately I confirmed today that 1 window stopped working and then then other. I'll check fuses first but I'm guessing the window regulators are shot. How hard are they to replace and align?

 

I have a "clunking" sound in the front passenger suspension when the car goes over bumps. I can raise the hood, bounce the front end of the car and see that the top of the strutt assembly is moving/clunking. I'm assuming it is the strutt bushing that needs to be replaced. Can someone confirm this for me and provide me with the exact part number I should order so I don't end up ordering the wrong part? I believe it is the Spring Seat as mkc70 mentioned which is part number 8646713. I would like to order parts off the internet and would be bummed if the wrong parts showed up.

Once again, it is a C70 Coupe, HT engine with 5spd manual transmission. Thanks!

 

Since you want to get the most miles out of the suspension with the least amount of noise I would either do the XC90 spring seats or the IPD heavy duty ones. A good price on the XC seats is 30$ each. IPD's garage sale is coming up and they should probably have their seats for ~40$. I went the IPD route due the seat using less recycled material in its construction.http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-C70-1998...p-75-553-4252/

 

Thanks! I haven't looked at the job close enough to tell yet- do I need a spring compressor to do this job?

 

Yes you will.

 

OK tackled the replacement of the spring seats and swaybar endlinks this weekend. In doing so I also ended up replacing the front strut mounts too. The hard part is done but I've got a couple of questions.
1. What is the torque spec for the front strut mount nuts (3 per side)?
2. What is the torque spec for the nuts on the strut bolts (2 per side)?
3. With the front of the car on jack stands I was surprised to find preload in the sway bar. Is by design or is the sway bar sticking to the rubber bushing?

I thought I bought an OK manual (CDs of Ebay) but all the torque nuts were missing. What is the best manual to pick up for this car? Someone on another post suggested the Chilton's manual.

 

I would not really worry about the torque specs I would just tighten to your liking.

Yes there will be a load on the sway bar with it in the air. It is normal.

 

That is what I thought until I yielded 2 of the bolts. I never applied over 40 ft-lbs of torque so my guess is that the last guy that did an alignment yielded them.

New bolts are in the mail and I figured I would go by the book this time (but in reality I'm going to hand the new bolts to the shop doing the alignment and ask them to use the new bolts).

Thanks!

 

This is a first for me...."tighten to your liking." Not busting chops, but I was going to ask this same exact question: What is the torque setting for the strut mounts?

The stooge that did my strut mounts (ME) seems to have overtightened them and now they are warped(this from a volvo mechanic). I may have tweaked them a bit when installing the struts/tie rods, etc....good news is that FCP Groton is sending me a new set because they have a 1 year warranty.

 

Then they must be the Hulk or an A** and using a half in impact gun to tighten them.

Volvo doesn't always give specs on all the bolts. They do for some then give a generic chart for the rest.

That's why I usually tighten to what I feel is good. But I have also been doing this for over 15 years now.

 

I changed the spring seats and the strutt bearings a few weeks ago. I was looking at it today and wondering if I got the star nut down enough. I thought I got it down as far as I could but there is a gap (see picture). Is this gap suppose to be there?

 

Yes that is normal.