My 2000 Volvo C70 2.4 was doing great for a while. It got a new turbo, new Oxy's. New brakes all 4 tires. New shocks/struts rear and front!!

Now as I travel down the road when I get into braking ...slowing down as I depress the pedal it vibrates and kicks back and then it might stop doing that symptom and will stop normal.other times it will not stop...as it's too busy fighting me with kickbacks and the such. Hare to explain, hope ya's understand.

I've done some homework. I bumped into a guy that rebuilds the ABS Modules...He is nice enough to offer a check list for things to check before blaming it on the ABS Module. One of those things is the Alternator. I did a check, I get 13.8-14 volts. Was told to take pos cable off battery while it running...it stayed running...so that normally means that the Alt is working fine. I did check the battery alone with a load. It did not stick around the 600amp area...it went down to 200amp. So I've replace the battery. Sadly the ABS still playing it's kick back stop stuff.

I forget what the other things where on the check list...before blaming the ABS stuff....but I will look back and check those things as well...

But....I then read that you can just take off the ABS Module and use the vehicle like it's got normal brakes without the ABS bull lone eee...

Is this true? What is involved in removing the black box off the bottom of the ABS silver control? I'm told that the car will do fine with just normal braking, there just will not be any ABS assist or traction control or what ever that other thing is called... sound right? any idea's from anyone?

On ebay it says you can buy a rebuilt ABS module as long as the number on the black box is exactly the same? That sure beats 2 grand for all the stuff new. But then it was said that the new box would need to be "programmed" for the vehicle to accept it???

Can ...or if any "air" got into the system when the brake job was done...could that be an issue?? What's weird is the car did great for months after the brake job...so thinking it could not be that?
Thanks in advance for any idea's here

 

A car without ABS has a proportioning valve to prevent the rear brakes from locking up first and causing the car to spin in a panic stop. If you disconnect/disable/it's simply broken ABS there is no proportioning valve and you will not be able to control the car in a panic stop.

A company such as xemodex.com has preprogrammed ABS modules at a reasonable price. (if needed)

And there are many other companies "rebuilding" those ABS units with various rates of success.

 

Thanks Hoonk, Yes, I call it the PP valve...my chevy is set up, when I lost my rear brakes, the valve popped so I would still have front brakes to nurse it home. When I fixed the rear brakes, I had to get the tool to hold the "pin" of that PP valve in so I could reset and bleed the system. I have or had no idea how Volvo is set up. I did not know a PP was set up to prevent rear brakes from locking up first in a panic stop-spin. Before ABS what prevented that in older cars?...fact that it was shoes/drums?
Anyhow, moving forward...I noticed today that it still doing the grumbling abs kicking in stop...but just notice my "snowflake" light is on, on the dash. Again, I do not know Volvo well(I will if all this keeps up) I'm guessing that's some sort of traction control that works with the ABS Mod...??? That light has never been on before and I've never touched the SLT button...if that's what is related with the traction control. Wish I had the manual when I bought this car(I'm second owner)...I could look up some of the things. Anyhow, I'm open to any education or idea's anyone has... Any "checks" I should do...before I go directly at the ABS Mod??

 

Non abs cars have a valve that limits the pressure to the rear brakes to help prevent them from locking up before the fronts lock up.

Snowflake means it's cold outside and there's a chance of ice on the roads.

The first step with the ABS system would be to scan the abs control unit with a compatible scan tool. There may be codes pointing you toward a diagnosis. With a good tool you can verify sensor signals and all sorts of stuff. On a 23 year old car there are many choices for things to break.

 

LOL.....gotta kinda see the joke here......I think the "snowflake" is being a snowflake......the last 3 days we've hit a heat wave of 51 degrees...and Mr. Snowflake has lighted up!!! Musta' needed a smoke.....lol.... please tell me this has nothing to do with the outside temp guage...as in that thing is not tied into the ABS brain...? My personal thought...is why do some cars add these "extra" things of no need... The head light wipers have been disconnected by the first owner one yr after she bought the car...now we have Mr. Snowflake...ohh boy. Well, as I said...I'm in the learning curve here...It's hit and miss with me...I really enjoyed the old vehicles of the past before the emissions junk...Today's vehicles...they great when nothing goes wrong....but..when they do..you need a degree in computers and a class how not to use a sledge hammer to solve problems. Anyhoots,...I wonder how much an ABS scanner is gonna cost me....time to hit the net....also want to find that cool link I found on the check list from a guy who rebuilds ABS units.. to see what ya's think about his page...it really impressed me. Again, thanks for the bit's and pieces you throw at me...keep's tis tired ole' brain somewhat functioning...(soon I may have a snowflake light up on my forehead :-)...) ok ok..it might already be partially on! I get senior discount though right?

 

I've been saving some links I've found over the past few months...Winter finally allows me some time to dig in...to solve these annoyin' things...

anyhoots......here's the link.........I'm going to re-read it,,,, I remember being kinda impressed with the info....anyone thing the info is pretty spot on?

https://midwest-abs.com/troubleshootingYou can pay somebody to scan the car, or you can guess. On the 96-2000 cars which would be he s70, v70, c70, s80 and 850, 90% of the time it's the module. We'll touch on that next. IF your speedometer is not working, that's typically a dead giveaway. Intermittent lights are usually a sign that the module is on it's way out and over the course of time, they'll just stay on.



The only downside to paying for a scan is that the codes that come up are almost always wheel sensor codes which really don't fail very often. the pump itself rarely fails on 96-2000 cars, but the pins inside the module that control it do.
99-2001 FWD with STC. V70, S70, C70, S80 9472088, 9472401, 9472866, 9472971, 9496440, 9496946, 8619538. All of these are identical and compatible with each other.

 

was looking to find the forum I saw a guy mention he disconnect his ABS on his Volvo...couldn't find...but did find this..???????????????????
https://www.thehealthyjournal.com/fa...l-speed-sensor