Once again, I'm having the starting problem: engine truns over, goes to about 1k rpm for a second or two, then dies. Repeated starting attempts are needed for it to eventually run. No codes thrown.

I've had the antenna ring replaced twice, both times with new keys. I've had the fuse box cable replaced years ago. I've had the ETM replaced two years ago (and the problem disappeared). Now that the problem is happening again, I had the ETM software updated per the recall. Had the throttle housing cleaned. I had the antenna ring connections checked. Now what? Insist on having the ETM replaced?

 

Keep it simple. Do you have spark? Fuel Pressure? Injectors? It could be as simple as a fuel pump or relay.

 

Sounds like the immblizer is going bad.

 

They said they checked the connections on the antenna ring. I've had it replaced twice - each time as a result of the same starting problem.

Here's an odd symptom. This morning, it cranked fine, engine started and revved to 1k, then immediately up to 2k for a second, then cut off. This happened several times, then it would only crank and not start. Finally, it cranked for a few secnds then suddenly started.

This is the exact same set of symptoms I've had before. The last time, I had the ETM replaced and that seemed to do it.

Any thoughts?

 

If its not the Volvo antenna, well you had to check your fuse box table.it may be the the cause of those defect in your car better yet go to your automotive mechanic.

 

Well, I'm told it's the immobilizer and keys for sure. Tech, would there be a code or codes specifically for that? I was told there were codes thrown that indicated a bad immobilizer.

What gets me is that this will be the THIRD time I've had it replaced.

Does $690 sound right for the antenna and new keys?

Also, the sunroof has been rattling a little lately. They said the rails needed to be replaced to the tune of $1325. This car is beginning to be a drag.

 

That sounds right for the keys and immoblizer.
It will set codes when the car doesn't start.

Are you sure the screws for the sunroof glass didn't come loose?

 

I don't open the sunroof that often, so I'm very wary of that diagnosis. They just tightened the screws last time and it worked fine. I guess I'll just do it myself. Are they torx screws?

 

Are you sure that it is not the sun SHADE that is rattling? My rattles something terrible and I have yet to find a cure. I too thought that it was the glass 'roof' at first.

r.

 

Yes they are T-25 Torxes.

 

I'm on the road again, though remain wary. They had to try two immobilizers and five keys in order to get three keys that would work. For some reason some keys would program and/or the first immobilizer wouldn't recognize them. The tech wrote a LOT on the work order that I couldn't see and the service manager was evasive. I did get it for $620, about $70 less than estimated, so I'm happy about that.

 

Glad it is running again.

 

I have had the same problems with my 2001C70 conv, last summer. It will start and stall in a few seconds, pull out the key and try again. This only happens every once in a while, the car always starts. You must take the key out of the ignition fully and restart. I also have found an oil leak at the back side of motor or turbine side/firewall. I have no clue whats leaking just yet, and last month my passenger door stopped working. I think my turbo oil line return might be leaking...any help guys. The door just started to work again, it may have been frozen inside...no clue. I need to adjust my e-break and to turn off my service soon light, Iwould like some advice on this.