I’ve had a problem, first on one side, now on both sides with the elastic bungee like cords that should pull the 2 rear flaps into place when I put my top up. This causes the flaps to catch on the inside of the rear seats. I have to stop the progression of the top, get out, and go to each side to pull them back out of the way, then continue with raising the top. I’ve stopped midway and retreaded the cords into their clips, but you can almost hear them pop loose as the top is completely in closed position. So the next time I lower the top, it’s the same problem. I can’t tell if it’s an issue with the clips themselves. They almost look like they are cracked, but I didn’t pay attention to how they looked before this problem started.





I doubt that stopping the top is good for the motor, so now I hardly ever use the top. So sad. Please help.

 

I feel your pain! On my 2012 C70 the cord on the driver's side pops out along with the clip attached to the back part of headliner so the big plastic piece is not flush with the back of the roof when it putting the lid back on. I've fiddled with it like you and it works if I stop the top but hate having do do that. I'm going to need to take it to someone (not the dealer) who specializes in convertible hard tops to have it repaired. I hope someone who can help us replies.

 

Hi, guys. Maybe these?
1. Find very strong glue and repair the break. Wash the holder to remove all oils, use alcohol to make sure all oils are removed so the glue can adhere well.
2. Track down the part number. It's tedious, but you may be able to replace the holder.
2a. The holder may be attached to the plastic back plate and un-removable. Then you have to get that back plate and have the old one carefully unstitched and the new piece sewn into the headliner. A convertible shop should be able to do that.
3. Go to a dealer. Yeah, it's expensive, but they can (or should) be able to fix it the first time and correctly. Call several dealers near you and see if they have a real expert in this.
4. You can pause the top when it's open without problems. Make sure though, that the winds are light!

I hope this helps!

Drive Laughing!
Tedders

 

Thanks Tedders for your reply.

I'd like to have this fixed sooner rather than later. I will start calling around to Volvo specialists, upholstery/convertible top repair specialists and the dealerships near me to get this fixed and post back here when it's completed.

 

In my other post I promised that I would come back when I found a solution to this annoying problem with hard plastic parts and cording made to eventually fail. In late September I had a body shop take a look at it and they though that I might be able to go to an upholstery shop to have this repaired.

On Good Friday 4/15/22 I tried putting the top down for the first time in over a year. I was worried this would happen: The top malfunctioned due to the loose cord and the hard plastic opera curtain on the driver's side got stuck in the rear seat back (OMG my leather) near the head rest. Then we couldn't get the top down or up at all. Not good! My husband was able to unstick the curtain from where it was pushing into the the back part of the seat and then we thought we were good as when I pushed the button for it, the top starting going back up. But in the end the trunk closed over the back window, leaving the windows partially down with gaps between the hardtop and the windshield and we were completely done. The annoying beeping and message stating top unlocked, along with the trunk lid the way it was made it undriveable.

I called AAA and had my beloved 2012 C70 towed to the closest dealer on Saturday. Today Galpin Volvo called me to let me know that it was going to cost $3,300 to fix it. I truly thought it would have been much more expensive so I am somewhat relieved. I'm happy that they are able to fix it and that I will get my dream car back as soon as they have ordered the new headliner and new cording and installed it. Really what good is it having a beautiful convertible if you can't put the top down? With the price of used cars through the roof I'll keep mine until it's worthless although that may take a while as in another 10 years it will be a approaching classic status.

 

OOoo; Ouch!

I'm glad that a Volvo Dealer will fix this problem!

Do NOT drive it off the Lot until you check it!! I would, after they get it all done, have a rep come out as you open and close the top. Have someone, like your husband watch the workings VERY carefully as the operations continue. Stop immediately if something isn't right. Make sure the side panels are pulled down completely. And then, do it again & again. Ask for what warranty they have; get it, if you can, in writing. Especially get the receipt that annotates all the work they did on it.

Then go enjoy!

When I purchased my used '13 C70 from a Mercedes Dealer, the top's interior wasn't lining up properly. They finally had to take the car to a Volvo dealer who had to replace the entire headliner and re-adjust the alignment; three times.

Drive Laughing!

Tedders

 

Hi Tedders,

Thanks for your reply!

My car will be ready on Tuesday. My husband who said that I wore it out using it so much (when it worked) will be going with me to pick it up and be sure that it works correctly multiple times. I will be sure to get the warranty and receipt to add to my already very large file for this car.

And yes I will be driving laughing even though it's costing me a small fortune to have repaired.

Libby

 

I have the same problem. The plastic guide is part of the headliner assembly and I have found no way to repair them, as mine broke into several pieces. Still looking for a DIY solution. I bought a plastic welder to attempt to repair them. Still waiting for decent weather when I can have the top open that long.

 

schippnc;510956 - It's a sucky problem to have and so very expensive to fix. We tried gluing the cracked piece once with Gorilla glue and fabric backing and it worked for a couple of times putting the top down/up. I think that there was just too much pressure on the plastic from the cord so it ended up failing. The last time we tried messing with it, the top had a major malfunction and ended up like the photo and we were done. I called the dealer on Friday and they said they could fix it to have it towed in on Saturday so that's what we did.

I hope it works for another 10 years.

 

Update for everyone. My car is back and the retractable hardtop now works perfectly. The new rear headliner and cords (new parts) are guaranteed for as long as I own it. I'm very happy and since I live in So. Cal. will be driving it with the top down (while laughing) daily.

 

My passenger-side "C" pillar "flap" won't "pull in" when raising the roof. I bought this car about 6 months ago. I cycled the top and stopped it about half-way and was able to see that one of the mini bungee cords popped out of its anchor. I went over to the other side and discover the previous owner must have experienced the same thing. On the other side that is working, I noticed someone drilled a small hole in the plastic next to the anchor clip. If you do this, I'd be very careful about drilling through the headliner(!).

In any event, it was a small hole. They then used a small, black cable-tie (one of those that threads on itself and locks permanently in place). This went in the hole and through the clip, and locked the small metal anchor on the end of the mini bungee cord to the anchor. This is in there solidly now. I will do the same thing once if find a small cable tie (I would think the smallest size is more than enough).

Again, my only concern is drilling through the plastic backing without puncturing the headliner. Attached is a photo. The arrow point to the snipped-off cable tie.


cable-tie anchor for mini bungee cord

 

I had the same problem with these broken clips on both sides of my roof. I tried glues & epoxy, but nothing worked. I took a piece of soft leather and cut roughly a 1 1/2" square. I folding the leather square in half and then cut two parallel slits. I then cut the square so that I can form a tent. I glued the flaps in place. I then fed the leather pad through the back of the broken clip. The cord is passed through the tent. The leather patch is too big to be pulled through the back of the broken clip and the cord is able to slip through the tent freely as the roof opens and closes. I did this repair over a year ago and it has worked perfectly. I have attached a series of photos showing what I did, using a piece of paper. If you need a better explanation, let me know and I will walk you through it. It is very simple.



1.5" square

Two Slits cut

Cut to form a tent

The tent.

 

Hi all - just recently picked up a 2013 C70 with 27k miles and I had the issue of the bungie/rope pulling out of the cracked clip as described in this forum.

I wanted to share the fix I found - and it’s been working well

somewhere - someone in the world made a “cover” for the clip with the split using a 3D printer - I bought a pair for $9.99 - and it fit, super easy install with glue and it works…. This guy on YouTube shows how he fixed it (he went extra) but I am sure if your reading this post - just by looking at the clips for sale you will get it


clips for sale are in the comments and here

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175722100188

 

I 3d print a clip that I glued over and it work for the last 2 years

 

Just to agree with everyone here-
it as cracked and could have been fixed with a little JBweld.

The dealerships hate these C70s and they rape everyone who goes in with one.
My battery failed while the top was closing. I had to wait until morning before I could do charge or replace the battery. In that time, the trunk dropped, throwing the system out of calibration. I manually closed the roof and had to take it to the dealership for re-calibration.

The dealership made me sign a waiver absolving them of responsibility if they broke something, and another one noting that the repairs could easily exceed $2000 and the bill would not be less than $400.
I explained this just needed to be plugged into the dealership scanner.
It took them 3 minutes, they charged me $300 and gave it a terrible car wash.

 

I am having the exact same issue with my C70. Is this caused by repetitive use, or is it a design flaw?

 

I've had the same problem on our 2013 C70. But I also fixed it. The plastic "catch" where the bungie like straps broke. First one side and then the other & it let the back triangular corner of the headliner fall down and that would bind when the top was brought back up. So I fixed those by drilling a small hole on each side of the break and using a strong electrical cable tie to anchor it back in place. That was maybe three years ago. There are several threads on here that show how to do that. BUT... I was told that the big reason it happened IN THE FIRST PLACE is because these tops need to be cleaned and lubed so that they glide up and down easily. I had no clue. For me... I never, ever did it. The dealer may have done so in one of the 25,000 mile checkups, no idea, but our 2013 has been out of warranty for quite a few years now. Anyway, we all need to do it so that everything moves smoothly and things don't catch and then break the little plastic anchoring pieces. A few years ago somebody on here directed me to a BMW page that showed how to do that correctly because we couldn't find anything through Volvo. So, I do this 2 times a year now and have not had any more issues. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=609222

That's not exactly true. I broke two of the plastic clips that holds the headliner in place when I was putting it back together. Part # 31256444. Those little $1.50 pieces are $56.00 through Volvo and I couldn't find an exact fit. GRRRR

 

I recently picked up a brand new 2011 C70 T5 convertible hardtop. My first clue there was a problem with the roof was the hanging headliner, but I'm pretty good at figuring out and fixing mechanical things so I didn't see it as a major issue. I must consider myself corrected - it is, or can be a BIG issue and I feel for those who don't have the knowledge or ability to resolve top problems, or the verve to "slash and burn" when it comes to sorting out a 13 year old car!
My "final solution" was to pull the front and rear panel headliners complete with press-board backing and toss them over in the corner of the garage. Next came the plastic "wings" that as so many have already pointed out, seem designed to fail and cause downstream catastrophe. Not only is this maddening, and destroys the simple joy of having a convertible, but it can cost a small fortune to have someone else fix it. Next I noticed that the plastic front foldable wings were previously damaged, bent, and even cracked from malfunction, so with a few turns of a #20 Torx screw out they came. Not long after came the two steel, hinged brackets they attached to...complexity removed and future malfunction problems averted! Then the REAR folding wing on the driver's side decided it was time to snag on the headrest - the top didn't even miss a beat closing, but that giant plastic panel got seriously tweaked! I had THOUGHT the rear folding wings were ok, but after that I got serious - clearly anything that depends on a flexible, STRETCHIBLE length of cord is going to have problems. Some would say the stretchiness helps not break the roof when something does snag, but the former U.S. Army helicopter pilot who was trained under the mantra of: "What you leave out can't break" sees those cords as nothing but a disaster in waiting and clearly an EXPENSIVE disaster!
Interestingly, most mechanical parts for the C70 are relatively affordable, but when it comes to that top, everything associated with it is stratospherically priced and likely because it always ends up at a Volvo dealer.
So I decided to remove the rear folding wings and in the process disconnect the cords, and remove the steel brackets for that - certainly saved a few pounds for sure! NOW my roof's reliability has increased significantly because everything that could snag, twist, fail to fold, or otherwise muck up the mechanism is GONE! Interior noise is a bit higher without the headliner and backing board but I have a plan for that. I'm going to pick up a huge section of canvas drop cloth from Harbor freight because canvas makes a great headliner material! It's the perfect "off" color, strong, durable, and easily cut and formed to the press board backing. Then I will attach it to the original mounting points using aftermarket fasteners that will lock in from the underside. This will cover most of the roof interior and add back lost sound-proofing. I'm still on the fence about whether to extend the sides a bit to cover some of the roof mechanism using sections of plastic inside the linger fold so they automatically give as needed, but they won't extend so far as to need to officially fold in! The other option is to leave the folding frame section open - makes inevitable future maintenance a lot easier!

All the complexity of the fancy folding wings were because Volvo wanted a headliner that looked like a hardtop when fully deployed. To get that, they had to contrive a complex, malfunction-certain mechanism. For those who don't need a "perfect" interior headliner, the best solution is to rip it all out! Another option instead of reusing the headliner panels is to use 0.4" thick acoustic panels, shaped and fitted to match the roof contours and bonded directly to the top!

Anyway, now my I feel safe to retract the roof because I know the basic mechanism is going to keep the panels moving in sequence to fold, or unfold.

 

You can neatly remove the headliner without damaging anything too.
If you back out the elastic cords, there are about a dozen bolts and then the entire back piece and wings drops out with damaging the headliner or fabric.

For a few years, and repeated regluing of the headliner clips, I supplemented them with a few self tapping screws.
When those rear wings cracked, I wasn't sure what to do. Even after I tried fixing them, it made the use of the roof simply unenjoyable.

I left the front headliner over the driver and removed the rest. The car is 100x more enjoyable now.