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Hard to say. The problems could be a host of things, including a bad catalytic converter or O2 sensor, MAF issues, any number of things that can cause misfires, etc.
Or it could be something simple like a single bad sensor or maybe an air leak on the intake beyond the MAF.
Since (I think) you're using the Torque app, see what the apparent temperature of the intake is reading, and see if it makes any sense. If not, you know you have a bad sensor or connection to the sensor. Fixing that might not (probably won't?) fix other things, but "everything is connected", so go for any low-hanging fruit you can find.
O2 sensors tend to throw codes when other sensors go bad as the front sensor may go out of range trying to compensate. The code for the intake air sensor sounds like its open so the device either is toast or has a connector issue. This would need to be check out. most temp sensors are thermistors so they would present a known resistance that you can measure with a multimeter (say in the range of 300 to 3000 ohms but you can google for target values). Simple enough to say if its 0 ohms or 10K plus ohms the sensor is bad. The MAF sensors are something you can also measure and test. If your car seems to be running ok, I'd probably start by testing/replacing the intake air temp sensor, then clean the MAF with some CRC MAF cleaner, clear the codes and see what returns, then if you still have a MAF code, google for some parameters to test to. I believe the P0130 is a code saying the O2 sensor is not presenting a signal which again can be tested and may possibly be linked to a connector issue.
Any other odd symptoms like do you have good system voltage or do other warning lights (like the battery light) come on from time to time?
Thanks for the tip. I tried checking MAF sensor to see if it is working, the car keeps running even after I unplug the MAF harness from the sensor. Does that mean the sensor is faulty?
Also I checked the temperature reading in torque. Not sure what the normal range is supposed to be, but i have taken a screenshot of the reading. Would appreciate if you can take a look at it and let me know.
Thanks!
Originally Posted by habbyguy
Hard to say. The problems could be a host of things, including a bad catalytic converter or O2 sensor, MAF issues, any number of things that can cause misfires, etc.
Or it could be something simple like a single bad sensor or maybe an air leak on the intake beyond the MAF.
Since (I think) you're using the Torque app, see what the apparent temperature of the intake is reading, and see if it makes any sense. If not, you know you have a bad sensor or connection to the sensor. Fixing that might not (probably won't?) fix other things, but "everything is connected", so go for any low-hanging fruit you can find.
100°F is probably pretty normal if it's a warm day (the under-hood temperature is always hotter than the ambient temperature). That tells me that the intake air temperature sensor is probably working OK (not sure why it threw a code, but it could have been an intermittent problem).
My bet is still that there's a leak in the intake somewhere that's letting in air after the MAF (throwing off everything else downstream). But yes, cleaning the MAF is a great idea, and may well help (can't hurt!).
What setting do I check it on? There are 3 pins on the harness.
Originally Posted by mt6127
O2 sensors tend to throw codes when other sensors go bad as the front sensor may go out of range trying to compensate. The code for the intake air sensor sounds like its open so the device either is toast or has a connector issue. This would need to be check out. most temp sensors are thermistors so they would present a known resistance that you can measure with a multimeter (say in the range of 300 to 3000 ohms but you can google for target values). Simple enough to say if its 0 ohms or 10K plus ohms the sensor is bad. The MAF sensors are something you can also measure and test. If your car seems to be running ok, I'd probably start by testing/replacing the intake air temp sensor, then clean the MAF with some CRC MAF cleaner, clear the codes and see what returns, then if you still have a MAF code, google for some parameters to test to. I believe the P0130 is a code saying the O2 sensor is not presenting a signal which again can be tested and may possibly be linked to a connector issue.
Any other odd symptoms like do you have good system voltage or do other warning lights (like the battery light) come on from time to time?
Set it to the 2000 ohm setting (at 6 o'clock on the dial) and use the two right meter lead connections (red in the center one, black in the left one). That should give you a direct resistance reading up to 2000 ohms. Or click it to the 20K (20,000) ohm range if the reading is off-scale (sounds like it could be up to 2,000 ohms).
I replaced the sensor with a new one and these are the codes I'm still getting. Was hoping it would fix it but to no avail. What would be the next thing to look in to?
Originally Posted by habbyguy
Set it to the 2000 ohm setting (at 6 o'clock on the dial) and use the two right meter lead connections (red in the center one, black in the left one). That should give you a direct resistance reading up to 2000 ohms. Or click it to the 20K (20,000) ohm range if the reading is off-scale (sounds like it could be up to 2,000 ohms).
My guess (one that I'd hesitate to use to buy lots of replacement parts...) would be:
1) An intake system leak somewhere between the MAF and intake manifold. Might be worth doing a smoke test (cool if you have the tools), or even just spray some starting fluid around the general area to see if the idle blips up (when you spray it on the leak, since it's sucking in more "fuel").
2) A really dirty air filter
3) A bad MAF sensor. Or perhaps a really dirty MAF sensor (which will also have trouble getting correct readings). If you haven't cleaned it properly (suggest getting a can of MAF cleaner), do that and clear the codes and see what happens. Hope you don't have to replace the MAF though... $$$
My guess (one that I'd hesitate to use to buy lots of replacement parts...) would be:
1) An intake system leak somewhere between the MAF and intake manifold. Might be worth doing a smoke test (cool if you have the tools), or even just spray some starting fluid around the general area to see if the idle blips up (when you spray it on the leak, since it's sucking in more "fuel").
2) A really dirty air filter
3) A bad MAF sensor. Or perhaps a really dirty MAF sensor (which will also have trouble getting correct readings). If you haven't cleaned it properly (suggest getting a can of MAF cleaner), do that and clear the codes and see what happens. Hope you don't have to replace the MAF though... $$$
I already replaced the MAF sensor. It was inexpensive. Could the harness that connects to the sensor be bad? I couldn't figure out the readings on voltameter but it was showing reading of like 13.80 on the red wire. Does it mean that the hardness is working fine?
I'm going to check the air intake filter to see how it looks.
Lastly, do I just spray some fuel near the intake area?? Sounds bit dangerous, Any precautions to take?
Appreciate your help btw!
Yeah, any time you get a sensor error, it COULD be the wiring / connector instead. That's why it's a good thing if you know the normal resistance of a sensor so you can at least do a quick ohmmeter check.
Getting battery voltage on one of the wires doesn't sound unlikely (I don't have a wiring diagram for your car, so I'm guessing here).
Just a puff of starter fluid starting at the MAF and working toward the motor. What you're looking for is a slight increase in idle speed, or possibly even a stumble - that will tell you that the engine is drawing air from somewhere it shouldn't be (and getting a shot of starting fluid when you spray it in the vicinity of a leak).
You might be able to hear a leak, too. The trick I do is to use a 2-3' long piece of gas line or vacuum line. One end in the ear (loosely, so you don't hurt yourself if you somehow hit a high or low-pressure spot), and move the other end around. Chances are if there's an intake leak big enough to give you error codes it's going to be making a pretty pronounced hiss. The hose helps because even a "loud" hiss is masked by all the other noises going on in the area.
Yeah, any time you get a sensor error, it COULD be the wiring / connector instead. That's why it's a good thing if you know the normal resistance of a sensor so you can at least do a quick ohmmeter check.
Getting battery voltage on one of the wires doesn't sound unlikely (I don't have a wiring diagram for your car, so I'm guessing here).
Just a puff of starter fluid starting at the MAF and working toward the motor. What you're looking for is a slight increase in idle speed, or possibly even a stumble - that will tell you that the engine is drawing air from somewhere it shouldn't be (and getting a shot of starting fluid when you spray it in the vicinity of a leak).
You might be able to hear a leak, too. The trick I do is to use a 2-3' long piece of gas line or vacuum line. One end in the ear (loosely, so you don't hurt yourself if you somehow hit a high or low-pressure spot), and move the other end around. Chances are if there's an intake leak big enough to give you error codes it's going to be making a pretty pronounced hiss. The hose helps because even a "loud" hiss is masked by all the other noises going on in the area.
I found these two sensors, they might be broken. Do you know what they do?
The top sensor is probably fine. Looks like the looming has slipped off the plug body but the two wires look to be still firmly in place. I can't say as much for the rest of the radiator... that's one of the ugliest things I've ever seen. I wouldn't start across the street with it like that here in Arizona. You'll want to be pricing out a new one ASAP.
Your engine compartment is entirely different than mine though - I really don't want to guess what that bottom device is (can't really tell if it's broken, or just bent).
06-19-2019, 11:49 AM
