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2000 Volvo s40 PCV system Replace or Clean?

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Old Mar 9, 2015 | 05:26 PM
  #1  
peace562's Avatar
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Default 2000 Volvo s40 PCV system Replace or Clean?

Hello everyone, I just replaced the VVT Hub as well as the seals in My S40 1.9t B420T with 160k . But as I see Oil still Appearing Underneath the Car In Small Puddles I Realize the Root of the problem has still not been solved. I took it to an Independent Volvo shop and They Told Me That It Had Positive Crank Case Pressure which was causing Oil to seep out of the seals. their reading said It was at 0.3+-2.
So now as I undertake this new project I was hoping you guys could shed some light as to wether simply cleaning the Oil Trap out should suffice or if I should just replace the whole system. Also if anyone knows of any guides out there as to how to Proceed with this project in an s40 that would really help. I came across a video on YouTube by FCPEuro that was done on an 850 but was wondering if the process would be the same on the s40.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2015 | 07:15 AM
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From: Doylestown, PA
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If you're going to go through the exercise of getting to the box, replace it all with a kit. The car is 15 years and those hoses will be due sooner or later and the plastic could be brittle. IPD sells a kit for the earlier and later nedcar models, just make sure you get the correct one.

Pics are small from a site migration forever ago but should help you out.
How to: Change PCV oil trap: Now With Catch Can Install - Troubleshooting and DIYs - 30 Forty 50

edit: I knew there was a good writeup on the uk boards, this thread has an attached pdf that has good pics. http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...ight=pcv+guide
 

Last edited by TEEKAY; Mar 10, 2015 at 08:36 AM.
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 12:50 AM
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Hudini's Avatar
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I decided on the 'clean and replace hoses as necessary' fix (otherwise known as being cheap). I found that the intake manifold gasket is reusable. I actually bought and used a new gasket but found the original came off in perfect shape. Of course if I had failed to buy a new one then the old one would have torn!

There is a tiny hard plastic hose going to the top of the air/oil separator that cracked on mine when removing it. It was replaced with plastic emissions hard line from the parts store, 3/16" IIRC.

The metal hose clamps are of the permanent variety like the ones holding the boot on the CV joint. I replaced them with the standard adjustable hose clamps.

I also had to clear the bottom drain hole on the engine block with forced air. This is the hole that gets clogged with the oily messy residue. I actually heard a muffled "pop" when the clog cleared. The block fitting is large (1" or so) but the route back to the crankcase oil is much smaller.
 
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