I own a 2011 S40 and recently encountered issues. First the car started to feel like it was loosing compression when accelerated from a dead stop; then it went away. Next the car completely shut down accelerating from a stop light and the oil pressure light came on. I checked the oil, added a quart of Full Synthetic 5/W30 and it drove perfect for 3 days till the check engine light and oil pressure light came on again. I took it to Napa to use a real code reader and it told me the code was PO193 - Fuel Rain Sensor Circuit High Bank 1. The car wouldn't start after that. I checked fuses and relays and eventually had roadside asst tow me and the car home. Anyone know of any quick fixes (removing the EOM module for 5 min?) or have access to repair videos for This year and model? YouTube has squat on this year and model.

 

A good start would be using a compatible scan tool (one that can display live data and talk to all the control units, the best choice would be VIDA) and a fuel pressure gauge. Simply checking your codes at NAPA would not have triggered anything that is now making the car not start (I trust the starter is spinning the engine over - the engine just will not catch and run)

Then with info gained from those tools - form a rational/reasonable diagnostic process (not guess, buy, replace, guess, buy, replace, then be more frustrated) to figure out why your car does not run. Sorry there are just too many options to list given your one piece of info provided.

 

Thank you for your reply and suggestions and I will surely take those into account. I did eventually get the car started and let it run and idle for 20 min or so today by (I assume) opening the gas cap to release pressure since I filled up with 93 premium about 30 min before the shut down occurred and I disconnected the battery terminals for an intermittent time period. I will start but hesitates to 1800 rpms in cold start to return to idle at 800, then in drive, once 2000 R pms is reached it starts to hesitate and wants to drop in R pms and shut off.

 

Have you changes the fuel pressure sensor ? and still having this issue , we had a similar issue but it would always start but no power after around 2000RPM , but best as mentioned check properly you dont want to waste money , from my experience these fuel pressure sensors do fail

 

No, I haven't changed it yet. Napa Auto parts gave me a OEM part number (2-260017) but it's $40 less at Rockauto.com so I wanted to extract the sensor to compare the specs before ordering it. Another thing to mention: as I mentioned previously I put oil in the car when it stopped running initially and the oil pressure light came on. The code reader and now diagnostics on a computer are telling me the issue is occuring in bank 1. Which leads me to believe I either A.) Put too much oil in it, over the 6.1 at margin - leading to a spark plug on bank 1 coated in oil the dip stick isn't ever accurate it seems. Or I need the sensor and a coil pack on bank 1. I'm the cars 2nd owner and it has 90,202 miles and I have never had a performance issue in two years.

 

I don't think you have a bank 2 - if you have left and right (as in a v-8) o2 sensors, or a straight or v6 with two front o2 sensors - there is a bank 1 and a bank 2. (or a subaru flat 4/6)

 

Thank you for the educated clarification. In that regard I most presumably am certainly only have bank 1 cause it's a 5 cylinder, straight build - all the plugs and wires are on one side front side of the manifold, etc. it seems very logical and I wouldn't of connected the dots without buying the mechanics manual since no descriptive video tutorials are shown thru Google videos.

 

when it comes to finding part numbers, I suggest starting with a dealer online store (I use Tasca Parts since they are here in New England and have the best prices for dealer parts I've found so far) to get the genuine Volvo part number then you can compare sources. These sites will also have part diagrams and often list model breaks (ie up to serial # or specific feature options). And as noted, your I5 only has a bank 1.

 

I am having the exact issues with my S60 and have been told to replace the ECU which I gather is pricey . I too have changed both fuel pumps and am now about to give up .

 

ECU failures are pretty rare. More common are sensor issues or wiring issues. Who did the diagnostics to suggest the ECU is at fault and what tool did they use?

PS: S60@2011 - best to start a new thread rather than hi-jacking another. You'll get more views/comments that way too.