When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Have no heat or A/C. Turn on fan and blower is not operating. Checked fuse #1 in passenger compartment and that fuse is good. On passenger side removed blower motor relay and tested and that is good. Removed blower motor and hooked it up to 12 V and it is working. When I turn A/C on I see green light on climate control unit but blower motor just not working. Not sure what else to test, any ideas what it might be?
I don't recall seeing a lot of issues with the CCM in the past,
The only problems I've seen with them (and quite a few times) is the fan is difficult to control. The speed is not linear to where there control **** is. Too fast, too slow - just not where you set it.
ok, thanks for all your input... i'll look at ccm. And definitely looking at taking the risk of buying a used one due to price. Is there a way to test ccm to find out if it is indeed bad?
Noticed a lot of electrical issues with this car. Have already replaced the ecm because the headlights worked intermittently Have an issue with the instrument cluster, the speedo and gas gauge work intermittently. Now possibly the ccm is bad as well. What the heck. Wonder what is causing all the electrical issues
1. Is there a way to test ccm to find out if it is indeed bad?
2. Wonder what is causing all the electrical issues
1. Certainly - use a compatible scan tool (or VIDA) and you can check the fan potentiometer and the fans response. See screenshot below.
2. It's an old car - and the stuff you mention is all common with 99-04 sv40's. There are many other common thing that break with that car - so buckle up if this car is new to you.
As mentioned you need to do a scan but that may not help as you know the blower works but gets no power to the blower so in my opinion its a short to earth somewhere , could be wiring or the switch for the blower , but even with the blower motor not working one should get hot or cold air out the vents when driving at low volume? I see yours is a climate control so has sensors to control the flaps , but they dont usualy controll the fan when set to manual
Didn't know about VIDA scan tool. When doing a quick search I saw VIDA and Dice. Do I need just VIDA scan tool? Or what is a compatible scan tool? Any recommendations which one or good seller for that? Great news about many common things breaking on this car, haha. Have replaced the exhaust cam sprocket due to oil leak and was just about ready to start replacing the turbo when the blower motor issue popped up. Hopefully those are all on the "common things to break list" and no more on the list after that. haha.
And that is true, I am getting low volume hot/cold air out of vents went driving. When I put multimeter lead at one of the connectors and other to ground looks like I'm getting 8 volts. Voltage doesn't change when I rotate fan ****. Was at first thinking voltage controlled fan speed but that doesn't look to be the case. But since I'm getting voltage at the blower motor connector shouldn't the fan turn on?
ready to start replacing the turbo when the blower motor issue popped up.
Voltage doesn't change when I rotate fan ****. Was at first thinking voltage controlled fan speed but that doesn't look to be the case.
Here's a wiring diagram. Relay 2/8 sends power to the fan when the key is on. The fan speed potentiometer causes the CCM to send the appropriate signal to the electronic resistor 4/14 and the resistor varies the ground to the fan to create different speeds. You could have a bad fan resistor (have replaced many in Volvos and many other brands of cars - but never in a 99-04 sv40). You could have a bad relay or fuse or a problem with the CCM.
Vida - VIDA is Volvos diagnostic software, parts catalog, wiring diagrams, service and repair procedures - everything you need (information wise) to fix a Volvo. What you see advertised is the stolen/hacked version 2014d. That was the last version available on DVD and will talk to thru years 2015. Vida is a program that runs best on a Win 7 pro cpu with IE9 or 10. Dice is the interface that plugs into the OBD port and a usb port on your cpu. Don't get too exited - while it is very useful for most Volvos the 99-04 sv40s are kind of a step brother Volvo. They were built in concert with Mitsubishi (or somebody) so most of the technology is not pure Volvo and Vida is limited in usage compared to just about every other Volvo from 99 on.
The real/legal way Vida is supposed to be used is sold as a subscription at Volvotechinfo.com
And why were you going to replace the turbo? I usually replace those when they were either seized or leaking so much oil into the exhaust that the car smokes badly. If the turbo is bad - what made it go bad? (usually lack of oil pressure due to a clogged oil pan/pick up tube is the most common cause)
Thank you hoonk for the write up, great info! Maybe still some hope that it is a relay and not the CCM. I tested the relay in pic below and found it good not 2/8 you show above. Did a search for CCM and those are not cheap. A used one is unavailable and a new one is very expensive. Is the CCM issues usually due to bad soldering on circuit board like I've seen is common with instrument panel? Any way to fix the CCM by resoldering like I've seen people do for instrument panel?
Not sure yet what caused turbo problem. Sometimes it works ok but other times definitely lack of power and can hear metal on metal contact like fan blades rubbing. When car was bought there was oil leak which finally figured out to be the exhaust cam sprocket so maybe it is due to oil starvation? Wanted to get that out of the car and see if I can figure out exactly what it might be. Never worked on turbo's before so will be a learning experience.
That relay is for "max speed" for the fan. Sending pure 12v ground to the fan, bypassing the electronic resistor.
Be aware you will be very lucky if no exhaust manifold studs break trying to get the exhaust manifold off. It's almost impossible to drill those out with the head still on the engine. Take the turbo intake hose loose and feel the end play in the shaft first.
I see, thank you! Let me see if I'm understanding this... so if fan speed is set to high speed then relay 2/19 energizes and connects pin 2 of motor 6/8 to gnd which gives it the full 12 V to fan motor. When fan speed is set to one of the other speeds relay 2/19 is not energized and the resistor is in play controlling fan speed via following path ( pin 4 -> pin 2 of 4/14 resistor -> 43/401 -> 31/1) Is pin 3 of 4/14 resistor the input from fan speed **** on CCM? And is there a way to test that resistor?
1. Is pin 3 of 4/14 resistor the input from fan speed **** on CCM?
2. And is there a way to test that resistor?
1. Yes
2. I don't know of a test for the electronic resistor. Don't know what kind of signal the ccm sends. I would probably diagnose by eliminating what I know is good.
+12 volts at fan connector 1, tests fuse and fan relay, if under a load, still could have a poor connection inside relay or at fuse that will pass voltage but not current. If possible would swap relay with another same part number from the car somewhere. Ground at resister and 2/19 relay terminals 2, and monitor this parameter using Vida or a compatible scan tool.
If all those were good it "has" to be the resistor!
Just getting back to this and wanted to update... My issue ended up being a bad resistor. Ordered an after market resistor ( standard motor procucts RU-419) and was able to get the blower motor running again.
blower motor
