our 2001 s40 turbo will just stop in traffic. The radio needs the code reentered. The car will start fine. No chk engine or codes. We have been have some non start issues that may relate to the neutral switch. Battery and chargeing are good. Cant check ground as is at dealer but u would have though they would check. My thought it might be the electrical side of the ignition switch??
thaks
mike

 

Picked up from dealer as they had no ideas as could not replicate problem. Purchase the electric sid of the ignition switch with the idea that a total electric fault might start there. Drove off forgetting credit card. Returned after 5 miniutes. Picked up card and..
1. First take off the car stuttered and bogged. Shut it off and it somewhat repeated. I wasn't quite convinced of a problem so I took off, hoping to get home to my code reader. Made it to the third corner. With in sight of the dealer but had to go around three blocks to get there. Car died again, with the traction control? symbol lit. Died again 1/2 in red bus zone and would not turn over. Of course all the mechanics had now left.
2. Called for jumpers.
3. Wierd? part. As I was in red zone, tried to shift into neutral. Switch would turn all the way but could not even force lever into N. Did not remeber this as normal.
4. Jumpers arrived in XC70. Busy street and bus arrives. Battery appears to be in trunk. Battery cover is bolted down. Maybe there are wrenches provided to overcome this idiotic situation. Yes one wrench falls from wheel kit. Too small. (in fairness, Volvo apparently provides the proper one. Drive Volvo #2 to shop and unbolt cover.
5. Jump to positive and engine block. Nothing. No dash lights or meters. Did not check headlights but dont think were on.
6. pull ground terminal and bypass battery. Nothing
7. put terminal back on, hear noises and voila, fires up
8 Drive to dealer and restart 5 times in rapid fashion.

? Could a weak ground cause this.
? Is there a reset that detaching the ground fixed
? Why could I not shift into neutral.

Thanks

 

I would remove the battery power cable and ground cable, clean them, then look for continuity. They cannot be partially broken or corroded because electric cables are like water pipes, the bigger they are the more they can carry. If one is partially broken then the cable will not flow the proper amount of juice and all sorts of weird things happen.

If the cables check out then I would switch the battery with a known good one as a test. Batteries have been known to crack internally producing symptoms like broken battery cables.

You could not get the shift lever to neutral because you had no electricity to the shift safety lock. It's the same lock that blocks you from shifting out of park when your foot is off the brake pedal under normal conditions. It also keeps little kids from shifting into neutral and the car start rolling down your driveway.

 

well--there was a slip-on, supposed to be crimped I guess, wire that terminates at the positive clamp, supplies the main fuse. While taking the air box out I decided to move the car backward to be in shade and there was no,nada, zilch power. Obviously a problem, especially cuz it was hot. Tested main fuse for continuity and power. Poked around and fortunately I had left the key on as my friend touched the positive pole something turned on. Upon investigation, as I said there was the power take off from the positive clamp that was discolored(heat) and hardened. I cut out the bad section and spliced in two pieces of 10 gauge(no big wire) and soldered everything together. Also cleaned out the airbox of nuts and acorns that had been stored there by some rodent.Only issue is the brass concave on the battery clamp is split which I jury nutted back together. I hope they sell them separately as the cables look pristine.
Deserve steak but the wife wants sushi.

Cheers