I have the long time starting problem after the S40 sitting more than 30 mins, and pushing the accelerator pedal (when the crank is rotating weakly and hesitates to start) will make a little help. This afternoon, I removed the plastics cover after removing 2 bolts, have a look as the photograph attachment. Have some questions per the suggestions (I have marked 4 places, you may answer with the numbers):
1. The FPR is bolted to the end of the fuel rail with one bolt. Where is the fuel way?
2. Disconnect the fuel line and the vacuum hose and it pulls straight out the end. where is the fuel line and vacuum hose? I guess the (2) is fuel line and (1) is vacuum hose, right?
3. Be sure to bleed off the fuel pressure first by pulling the fuel pump fuse and letting the engine run til it dies. Where is the fuel pump fuse?
4. Easiest way to check is to pull the vacuum line off the regulator after is has been sitting a little while and see if there is fuel in the vacuum line. If there is it is bad. Where is the vacuum line?
5. What's the line placed in front of FPR? it's refered as (4). Can it be removed before replacing the FPR? feel it's inconvenient for the replacement.

thank you alot.

 

1.Not sure what you are asking.
2.Yes 1 and 2 are what you think they are.
3. Or you can push the valve in the fuel rail and bleed the pressure off.
4.#1 is the hose you need to remove to see if it is bad.
5.You can remove it but it is not needed.

 

Q5: Hi, I pasted an other person's photograph which were marked A and B, you said before 'Remove the cover again and you will see a hose white plastic with an elbow on each side. It kind of looks like a S remove it from the intake', where is the intake, the B or A? I guess B, but not sure.
Q6: Is there a fuel way loop including the fuel tank -> engine -> FPR -> fuel tank? and the fuel flow direction is also right or not?
Q7: In Q2, #1 vacuum hose and #2 fuel line were mentioned, which one is closer up to tank, and which one is closer up to engine?
Q8: I remember an issue, when parked and then open the engine hood, put the ear close to the machine, I can hear sth. was flowing, it was rippling, like whisper. Is it possible the leaking fuel?
Q9(cont.Q3): would you introduce more to push the valve in the fuel rail and bleed the pressure off?

thanks very much.

 

5. Yes the B hose.
6. That is pretty close the excess pressure returns to the tank
7. # runs to the tank #1 only goes from the FPR to the intake.
8. Not sure maybe.
9. Thats how I bleed the pressure off.

 

Hi sir, 'the easiest way to check is to pull the vacuum line off the regulator after is has been sitting a little while and see if there is fuel in the vacuum line'.
But it seems not easy for me. I have tried to pull of at b# but not succeeded. it's right at b#, or a#, c#? what tools you suggested?

thanks alot.

 

b is what you need to pull off. Try twisting it some first to break the seal between the hose and the nipple then slide it off. Or use a screw driver and try to pry it off.

 

Don't pry too hard. My line was crumbly and ready to break...so I bought a new one!

 

thanks alot. I have an update for Q8:
Q8(upd.): it's not flowing, it's dropping. Maybe it's from the turbo, just guess.

 

Hi. I noted that myswedishparts now has the part for $100, so I'm assuming it does not include the black housing. Should I try to find one with housing in order to get new hoses, fuel line clip, etc? Thanks!

 

I replaced only the middle piece with great success.
It can be replaced in just a few minutes.
Perhaps you can order a new vac hose from the dealer or you might be able to get away with reusing your existing one.

 

Thanks for sghokie's experience sharing first.

Hi tech, I removed the vacuum hose at the 'b' after parking about 40 mins, I didn't see any fuel in the hose, but could smell it when I put my nose on it and then had a deep breath. My questions are:
1. Is it the typical sympton from FPR's problem? I'm planning to purchase the internal metal without housing.
2. Glue or lube is necessary for seal when installing the hose back to the throttle?

Btw, the hose was easy to be removed off when using the screw driver, see the photo for the using of screw driver.

 

When the regulator goes bad it will usually have a long crank time to start cold.

 

It works well in rainy days, but the rainy season has gone away.
It cranks a long time to start cold or just after parking 20 mins.
have to fix it.
thanks for your reply.

Emergency, I have new update as following link:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-s40-11/emergent-situation-about-fpr-removal-33783/