Hi guys,

I'm using the guide at:
: Crank Seals/VVT

Im sort of freaking right now as Im at the point where I remove the timing belt. When I removed it, the exhaust cam moved counter clockwise about an 1/8th of a turn. I'm not sure why but my marks are no longer TDC

Advice needed and TIA

 

Not sure what kind of car you have and I can't view the link. But I'm assuming that you didn't unload the cvvts so thats why it moved. Move the cam back into position and put the belt back on.

 

Thank you for replying

2003 S40.

I fixed the link in the original posting.

If its as easy as moving it back to TDC, I guess I don't have to worry

Thx

 

It is really that simple. Just move the CVVT gear back until the marks on the gear line up with the cuts on the plastic timing belt guard. The pressure from the valve springs on the cam lobes is what causes the cam to move. Next time consider a cam gear lock tool. You can carve up a piece of a wooden 2x4 to fit in between the gears. Easy and cheap.

Also, the marks are not really TDC. Top Dead Center would be a bad thing if your cam moved on an interference engine. When lined up the timing gear marks actually have all 4 pistons down in the bore so there is no problem if the cam moves and a stray valve opens.

 

OK, gotcha..

Thx for the info as I'm still learning.

I did buy the cam locking tool and am confused as to why we haven't placed it yet per the instructions. I would have preferred to place it before taking the belt off. But without fully understanding why I do certain steps, I chose to follow the guide to the Tee

 

Hey cool - that's my guide! I hope you were able to find it of some use. To be honest regarding your question on when to put the cam locking tool on I was basically following the VIDA instructions. In think it has to do with the fact that the two cams need to be exactly in the correct position to get the tool on so it just makes it slightly easier without a belt. In addition, if the existing timing is not perfect you will not be able to get the cam locking tool on without taking the belt off as both notches at the back need to be exactly lined up for the tool to fit.

I hope you are doing ok with the rest of the job. Note that this guide assumes you are replacing the VVT so if you are not and just replacing the belt, no need to do a lot of the stuff mentioned in the guide.

 

The Guide was simple awesome!!!!!!

Saved me so much $$$ and time. Thank you very much.

I did remove the cam gears so I could replace the seals. I have oil leaking in there and that appeared to be the culprit. Only one leaking but chose to do both as well as the crank seal.

I haven't been able to drive it yet as I now have air in the PS System and have the straighten that out so I can take it for a long drive. Ive had it running for a few minutes and no Check Engine light. I hope it stays that way!

 

Good luck with the CEL...it certainly is disheartening when that thing comes on...I can definitely vouch for that!

In fact, I replaced the seals and put everything back together only to find that a) the CEL light came on and b) the VVT was also leaking - I just hadn't noticed...so back in I went.

Since I had to go back in there I ended up replacing the belt, the tensioner and the VVT. No more oil leaking and I'm now 9 months CEL-free! However, I have recently noticed some minor sweating from the rear of the valve cover gasket (great). I don't think it's worth addressing just yet but probably something I'll need to fix at some point.

Just out of curiosity have you had your PCV system inspected recently? Apparently if that gets clogged it can cause the seals to leak. Due to feedback from my dealership I replaced my oil trap six months prior to the seals. I'm pretty sure that my clogged PCV resulted in the leaking seals.

As an aside, I'm pretty sure that I know why my CEL came on after replacing the seals the first time. I failed to tension the belt sufficiently between the intake cam and the crank gear prior to re-tensioning the tensioner. The second time around I actually manually turned the crank clockwise (just a hair) until I was sure the belt was tight between the two gears and THEN I tensioned up the tensioner according to instructions. You know you have it right when, after rotating the belt an entire revolution, the tensioner still reads 12 o'clock. In my case, i would tension to 12 o'clock and then because of the slack in the belt, it would end up being slightly off after a full turn.

 

That was going to be my next step. I probably should have done it when I was working on her but I needed to get it back on the road for my daughter.