oil ?s
When it comes to the topic of BEST synthetic oil to use, this can be the biggest debate of all ...lol However in my honest judgement (not opinion) it does not matter, just as long as you use the correct weight for your weather. Lukas , mobile 1, castrol syntec, its all good...to find the best though you need to start splitting frog hairs. It is very common to consume oil in a turbo volvo and I am willing to bet that , this is the reason many volvo owners have engine failure. so just keep her topped off with a good synthetic oil and your good to go.
well bad news. oil engine light started to come on for a few seconds randomly. checked oil and barely any in it. ended up adding 5 quarts, yes 5! been super busy with life that I'll admit haven't been taking care of my car. before adding oil it had a small knocking sound, after adding noise decreased dramatically. the next morning planned on taking it in. started it up and knocking was super bad. took it in to the shop and waiting for work back now
Yeah sounds like you have engine code 39. I've seen those go 6 quarts low which is cometely dry. But I can guarantee that you will need a new engine. Every single one that I have tested for oil consumption most of the leakage is through the piston rings.
Not exactly their fault, the most of the time the low oil light will not come on until the engine is about 4-5 quarts low. Like I said I've seen those engines go 6 quarts low and drive out (with 6 quarts added of course) with no problems to the engine.
Of course if you don't have oil, you have no oil pressure.
But yes typically that is the issue, the but once again I've filled the engines with oil and driven the cars, no further knocking and no drivability problems. Then the customer took the car and brought it back in 1000 miles to continue my oil consumption diagnosis.
But yes typically that is the issue, the but once again I've filled the engines with oil and driven the cars, no further knocking and no drivability problems. Then the customer took the car and brought it back in 1000 miles to continue my oil consumption diagnosis.
thank you guys for your input.
so mechanic replaced bearing, after test drive and oil change new bearing was stripped (all others were good), still had a small knocking sound. thought piston rod may have warped lengthwise, it did, replaced. engine sounds good after a couple seconds. very faint knock when first start up and at high rpm. any ideas what could be causing the knock? engine is clean too
so mechanic replaced bearing, after test drive and oil change new bearing was stripped (all others were good), still had a small knocking sound. thought piston rod may have warped lengthwise, it did, replaced. engine sounds good after a couple seconds. very faint knock when first start up and at high rpm. any ideas what could be causing the knock? engine is clean too
Once a motor is damaged internally, the mechanic that takes it apart has to have all of the internals checked out to insure ALL of the parts are to spec. Any bent or worn parts has to be changed. I'm sure no one here can figure out which of the 30 internal parts are causing the knocking.
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nuclearseal
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i know either way its not gonna be good, but i can still hope (a little)

