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Rubber Brake Line Replacement help!

Old Apr 14, 2014 | 04:57 PM
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Exclamation Rubber Brake Line Replacement help!

Just today I found out that my 2001 Volvo S40 1.9t had a brake line failure but it's only the driver side rubber hose that connects to the calipers burst open and leaked a considerable amount of brake fluid. What do I need to get this fixed? Lastly the Master cylinder is fine as well with the reserve only half full. If anybody responds to this please tell me if it's possible to fix it on my own and how to do it with a step-by-step instructions. Thanks it will really help me out to get my main port of transport back online .
 
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 07:03 PM
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It's really easy. Loosen lug nuts. Secure car up on (a) jack stand(s) (never work on a car secured by a single tire change jack). Remove wheel. Turn steering wheel until back of caliper is easy to access. Remove old busted hose (flare wrench works best on hoses, PB Blaster for rusty connections). Install new hose. Remove reservoir cap and top off brake fluid. Loosen caliper bleed screw. Place clear hose on bleed screw with other end down into a clear cup. Have assistant SLOWLY pump brake pedal as you watch the air bubbles and old discolored fluid being pumped out bleed screw (never push brake pedal past about halfway). When the fluid is clear again and no air bubbles are coming out then close bleed screw as your assistant is pushing the brake pedal. Now start the car and pump the brakes to make sure the pedal is firm and stays there. Top off reservoir.

I have done this on both front wheels as both have failed at different times. If you are good with DIY and have the right tools you will do fine. I would also try Youtube to get a look at how other car's brake hoses are done. The S40 is really no different.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Hudini
It's really easy. Loosen lug nuts. Secure car up on (a) jack stand(s) (never work on a car secured by a single tire change jack). Remove wheel. Turn steering wheel until back of caliper is easy to access. Remove old busted hose (flare wrench works best on hoses, PB Blaster for rusty connections). Install new hose. Remove reservoir cap and top off brake fluid. Loosen caliper bleed screw. Place clear hose on bleed screw with other end down into a clear cup. Have assistant SLOWLY pump brake pedal as you watch the air bubbles and old discolored fluid being pumped out bleed screw (never push brake pedal past about halfway). When the fluid is clear again and no air bubbles are coming out then close bleed screw as your assistant is pushing the brake pedal. Now start the car and pump the brakes to make sure the pedal is firm and stays there. Top off reservoir.

I have done this on both front wheels as both have failed at different times. If you are good with DIY and have the right tools you will do fine. I would also try Youtube to get a look at how other car's brake hoses are done. The S40 is really no different.
Thank you for the information that has been provided and also looking at the other side it looks like it also needs to be replaced because the hose is cracking at the exact same spot as the other side where it blew out. Is it ok to pump the brake peddle with a full pump or two to get the extra brake fluid out of the Master Cylinder? and to answer the question on your quote I'll Choose done Correctly and done inexpensively.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 09:21 AM
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Pump the pedal as many times as needed. Just try to not push it all the way to the floor each time you press it. You don't want the piston inside the master cylinder to reach areas it has never been before. It tends to tear the little rubber seals. Unfortunately I learned this the hard way.

If you have the cash and time it is the smart move to replace the other side. I got lucky and both brake hoses failed with the car still in park.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 07:00 PM
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Yes its a relatively straight forward job as per Hudini's instructions for guidance.
I have had to do both sides (front) on my V40 about 18 months ago.
Had not burst but were badly perished near the 2 metal end connection points.
It is wise to do both sides whenever your doing work on brakes as the age and wear issues are normally equivalent and it saves you going back again a short time later needlessly.
Check the back hoses visually too (for safety) although they do last longer as they are not subject to wheels turning with steering.
 
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