I've seen conflicting info on this...12345 and 12453. Somehow the second series makes more sense but can someone tell me what the actual firing order is? I'm also getting an engine from a local Pick n Pull to install in the 2004 S40. I've seen one with significant rear end collision damage that looks good to me. Any suggestions on what else to look for? I am hoping to do a leakdown test to determine engine compression before removing this motor. Also, would a Turbocharged motor or other Volvo motors be a direct fit into the 2004?

 

the 12453 is what you'd see if you were looking at an older 5 cylinder with a distributor. Considering the S40 uses an electronic ignition with individual coil packs, the 12345 is telling you that the #1 cylinder goes to the harness for #1, then 2,3,4,5. Just remember #1 is the cylinder closest to the timing belt and count sequentially left to right.

Regarding getting a used engine - does it run in the car? you'd need to do all the appropriate visual inspections - coolant/oil smell and colors, pop out a plug, if the battery and computer are still hooked up, scan for codes, otherwise do a visual - oil leaks? inspection cam?

In terms of fitting replacements to your car - check your engine for the modular engine code ( ie B5244S4 (S means its an NA engine) or B5254T3 (T5 turbo) - then you can check the Volvo Modular Engine wiki page to see what years/models are a direct replacement (ie the T5s are the same from 2005 to 2007 and the 2.4i are the same in the S40 from 2005 to 2010).

You can't directly drop a turbo motor into a chassis set up for an NA or vice versa as the motor needs to match to the wiring harness, computers etc.

 

Thanks for the input. The car being fixed broke it's timing belt and I'm thinking it's an interference motor so likely broke or bent valves. One mechanicsaid the pistons were OK but I'm planning to inspect with camera and maybe see if the cylinders will hold a liquid. If the lower end is good, I'd plan to replace just the cylinder head.

 

yes the 2.4i and T5 are both interference engines. a timing belt fail will likely bend all 10 of your exhaust valves, particularly if it happened at speed - so your call is whether to rebuild the head or replace. Either way you'd want a machine shop to check the head for flatness.

 

It appears that I was misinformed and the belt is intact. However, I used an I inspection camera and saw small metal fragments in cylinder 2. I tried to retrieve some of these with a magnet but got nowhere. I'm going to see whether the cylinders hold liquid. If they do, I'll remove the cylinder head.

 

Also, I was trying to remove the nut holding the crank pulley on. Tried a propane torch and an impact wrench. I'm assuming threads are conventional? I did try the impact wrench in both directions. Rust seems to be a problem so I added some WD 40. Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

did you try a very long breaker bar (like a breaker bar with a 4 ft iron pipe over it)?

 

Not yet. I took off the right front wheel...Will the crank remain in place while the nut rotates?