What if? Timing belt and camshaft issues
#1
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Being a newb. What if i didnt line up the marks for the three gears with the timing belt? And then i just adjusted the bottom crankshaft to meet the mark only, while leaving the upper two camshafts the way they were (misalign i guess because i didn't move them).
And What if I then removed both camshaft gears, which by the way may have shifted a teeth or two when moving? So all timing is kinda off lol and im screwed, now, i haven't installed back anything on realizing my mistake.
Pretty much is there anything i could do to reset the timing on the valves so i won't risk any bent valves?
And What if I then removed both camshaft gears, which by the way may have shifted a teeth or two when moving? So all timing is kinda off lol and im screwed, now, i haven't installed back anything on realizing my mistake.
Pretty much is there anything i could do to reset the timing on the valves so i won't risk any bent valves?
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You're not screwed but you need the tool to hold the cams stationary. Rotate the crank slowly 90 degrees from top dead center and you should be able to get the cams in the correct position without contact. If you take the covers off the other end of the cams there is a slot cut in the cam that will be straight across when in the proper location.
#3
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If I understand correctly you removed the actual cam gears from the cams? If so, all is not lost if the cams only moved a tooth or two. It's gonna be a tad bit difficult to get everything lined up though. Yes there is a cam tool designed to hold the cams in the proper position but it's extremely expensive (like $500). You can make your own if you have the patience and the proper tools like a welder, grinder, etc. Lets say you have the tool. First you remove the exhaust cam position sensor cover and reluctor wheel to expose the cut on the end of the cam. Next you pop the cap off the end of the intake cam (which must be replaced with a new one later) to expose the cut on that cam. If your cams are only a tooth off then you would simply rotate the cams a tiny bit until the cuts on the ends are level with each other and the tool fits in the cuts. Now you can bolt the cam gears on their respective cams with the timing marks lined up to the marks on the plastic timing gear cover. You need quite a bit of torque on the CVVT gear so having the cam tool in place is crucial so the exhaust cam does not move. I must have loosened and tightened mine 5 times until I finally got it right.
You wrote above you had the crank on it's mark already? Then leave it there and install your timing belt. In this scenario all your marks are lined up and the cams are in the proper position.
Edit: I reread your first post. Did you rotate the crank with the timing belt removed? If so, did you move it alot? I -think- the cuts on the cams are not symmetrical but I'm not 100% sure. If not symmetrical then the cam tool only fits one way and you are good to go. If the cuts ARE symmetrical then you are kinda screwed until you get a look at an identical setup so you can see where the cam lobes are when the timing marks are in alignment. If you had a reference to look at then you are golden.
You wrote above you had the crank on it's mark already? Then leave it there and install your timing belt. In this scenario all your marks are lined up and the cams are in the proper position.
Edit: I reread your first post. Did you rotate the crank with the timing belt removed? If so, did you move it alot? I -think- the cuts on the cams are not symmetrical but I'm not 100% sure. If not symmetrical then the cam tool only fits one way and you are good to go. If the cuts ARE symmetrical then you are kinda screwed until you get a look at an identical setup so you can see where the cam lobes are when the timing marks are in alignment. If you had a reference to look at then you are golden.
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am baffled; need a picture of all this anyone??
If I understand correctly you removed the actual cam gears from the cams? If so, all is not lost if the cams only moved a tooth or two. It's gonna be a tad bit difficult to get everything lined up though. Yes there is a cam tool designed to hold the cams in the proper position but it's extremely expensive (like $500). You can make your own if you have the patience and the proper tools like a welder, grinder, etc. Lets say you have the tool. First you remove the exhaust cam position sensor cover and reluctor wheel to expose the cut on the end of the cam. Next you pop the cap off the end of the intake cam (which must be replaced with a new one later) to expose the cut on that cam. If your cams are only a tooth off then you would simply rotate the cams a tiny bit until the cuts on the ends are level with each other and the tool fits in the cuts. Now you can bolt the cam gears on their respective cams with the timing marks lined up to the marks on the plastic timing gear cover. You need quite a bit of torque on the CVVT gear so having the cam tool in place is crucial so the exhaust cam does not move. I must have loosened and tightened mine 5 times until I finally got it right.
You wrote above you had the crank on it's mark already? Then leave it there and install your timing belt. In this scenario all your marks are lined up and the cams are in the proper position.
Edit: I reread your first post. Did you rotate the crank with the timing belt removed? If so, did you move it alot? I -think- the cuts on the cams are not symmetrical but I'm not 100% sure. If not symmetrical then the cam tool only fits one way and you are good to go. If the cuts ARE symmetrical then you are kinda screwed until you get a look at an identical setup so you can see where the cam lobes are when the timing marks are in alignment. If you had a reference to look at then you are golden.
You wrote above you had the crank on it's mark already? Then leave it there and install your timing belt. In this scenario all your marks are lined up and the cams are in the proper position.
Edit: I reread your first post. Did you rotate the crank with the timing belt removed? If so, did you move it alot? I -think- the cuts on the cams are not symmetrical but I'm not 100% sure. If not symmetrical then the cam tool only fits one way and you are good to go. If the cuts ARE symmetrical then you are kinda screwed until you get a look at an identical setup so you can see where the cam lobes are when the timing marks are in alignment. If you had a reference to look at then you are golden.
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You're not screwed but you need the tool to hold the cams stationary. Rotate the crank slowly 90 degrees from top dead center and you should be able to get the cams in the correct position without contact. If you take the covers off the other end of the cams there is a slot cut in the cam that will be straight across when in the proper location.
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Exactly what are you looking for? I've learned allot since the above posts. Are you replacing a timing belt? Having an issue? What's up?
Reference the TDC comment: Volvo does not use TDC as this could put a piston in contact with an open valve. The reference mark on the crankshaft puts the pistons about halfway down the bore. Also, with the cam gears on their marks, there is tension on both cams from the valve springs. They most likely will move unless secured with a cam gear tool like this:
http://www.etoolcart.com/Camshaft-Lo...-V9995714.aspx
Reference the TDC comment: Volvo does not use TDC as this could put a piston in contact with an open valve. The reference mark on the crankshaft puts the pistons about halfway down the bore. Also, with the cam gears on their marks, there is tension on both cams from the valve springs. They most likely will move unless secured with a cam gear tool like this:
http://www.etoolcart.com/Camshaft-Lo...-V9995714.aspx
Last edited by Hudini; 03-31-2013 at 07:27 PM.
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