2.5T '05 PCV hoses & system - broke a hose
#1
2.5T '05 PCV hoses & system - broke a hose
Good day,
I did my annual full detail over the long weekend - clay/machine-polish/seal the paint, thoroughly clean and protect the interior, and wash/detail the engine bay.
In brushing down the engine bay, I managed to break a hose. From the hose's location, it looks like part of the PCV system - it comes out of the valve cover next to the filler cap, and disappears in the depths under the intake manifold. Right about the level of the intake manifold, the hose changes from smooth to corrugated, and it's broken off right at the corrugated part.
I think this is the replacement hose that I need - however, this photo shows a smooth hose, and mine is corrugated partway down. Can anyone confirm that this is the right part for the hose that comes out near the filler cap?
http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?st...928&V_ID=12704
Now the more important question: Is it even remotely possible to change this hose without removing the fuel rail and intake manifold?
If I'm going through all that trouble, should I just replace the whole PCV system so I don't have to worry about it?
http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?st...928&V_ID=12702
(since this kit includes the intake manifold gasket, I assume that the intake manifold comes off as part of the repair procedure)
Any tips on this job? Any specialty tools required? I'm pretty handy with the ol' torque wrench.
Anything else I should replace while I'm in there?
It's a 2005 S60 2.5T with 69k miles.
[edit] One more thing, I haven't driven it (much?) since noticing the broken hose. I took it around the block after changing the oil, but I can't remember if that was before or after brushing down the engine bay.
I did my annual full detail over the long weekend - clay/machine-polish/seal the paint, thoroughly clean and protect the interior, and wash/detail the engine bay.
In brushing down the engine bay, I managed to break a hose. From the hose's location, it looks like part of the PCV system - it comes out of the valve cover next to the filler cap, and disappears in the depths under the intake manifold. Right about the level of the intake manifold, the hose changes from smooth to corrugated, and it's broken off right at the corrugated part.
I think this is the replacement hose that I need - however, this photo shows a smooth hose, and mine is corrugated partway down. Can anyone confirm that this is the right part for the hose that comes out near the filler cap?
http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?st...928&V_ID=12704
Now the more important question: Is it even remotely possible to change this hose without removing the fuel rail and intake manifold?
If I'm going through all that trouble, should I just replace the whole PCV system so I don't have to worry about it?
http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?st...928&V_ID=12702
(since this kit includes the intake manifold gasket, I assume that the intake manifold comes off as part of the repair procedure)
Any tips on this job? Any specialty tools required? I'm pretty handy with the ol' torque wrench.
Anything else I should replace while I'm in there?
It's a 2005 S60 2.5T with 69k miles.
[edit] One more thing, I haven't driven it (much?) since noticing the broken hose. I took it around the block after changing the oil, but I can't remember if that was before or after brushing down the engine bay.
Last edited by nathancarter; 06-01-2010 at 11:44 AM.
#2
well if your using the special clamps, you will need the special pliers, oetiker pliers, but this can be done without removal of anything except plug cover.
I do not know if you can check the oil trap without the special gauge, it may be bad.
That hose looks good, I dont think there are any chassis splits for the correct part, your dealer will know.
I do not know if you can check the oil trap without the special gauge, it may be bad.
That hose looks good, I dont think there are any chassis splits for the correct part, your dealer will know.
#3
Thanks. I'll give it another look to see if I can get to the bottom hose clamp. After seeing the photo of the replacement hose, I've got a better idea of what I'm in for.
I'll certainly be using a regular hose clamp, not one of those specialty clamps.
Any further info on testing the oil trap? From the diagram on IPD, it looks like it's a relatively simple separator that drains directly back into the sump pan. What sort of special gauge, is it a vacuum-draw gauge?
(by comparison, my '02 BMW 330i has a cyclone-style oil separator that drains into the dipstick pipe, and vents into the intake manifold right above the intake valves... I'm intimately familiar with that engine, but the 2.5T I'm kinda learning as I go)
I'll snap some photos if I dig into it very much.
I'll certainly be using a regular hose clamp, not one of those specialty clamps.
Any further info on testing the oil trap? From the diagram on IPD, it looks like it's a relatively simple separator that drains directly back into the sump pan. What sort of special gauge, is it a vacuum-draw gauge?
(by comparison, my '02 BMW 330i has a cyclone-style oil separator that drains into the dipstick pipe, and vents into the intake manifold right above the intake valves... I'm intimately familiar with that engine, but the 2.5T I'm kinda learning as I go)
I'll snap some photos if I dig into it very much.
#4
You can replace the hose with out removing the manifold that's there. Like you said, You will need to use hose clamps to secure the hose to the Oil separator. It is a little tight in there but very doable.
My issue from a couple months ago....
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-a-little-help.
My issue from a couple months ago....
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-a-little-help.
Last edited by Mad Matt; 06-01-2010 at 09:38 PM.
#5
Matt,
Thanks for the info and the link. Mine broke on the bottom corrugated section, when I was poking around last night, it broke some more in the top corrugated section, like your photos show.
As a temporary fix, I jerry-rigged it with some vinyl tubing and electrical tape. Will post some pics when I can get them from the camera... it's top-quality redneck craftsmanship, I tell ya what
Looks like I can get to the lower hose clamp with only a little trouble if I remove the intercooler pipe. Probably oughta do the spark plugs while I'm in there, they're the originals with 69k.
Thanks for the info and the link. Mine broke on the bottom corrugated section, when I was poking around last night, it broke some more in the top corrugated section, like your photos show.
As a temporary fix, I jerry-rigged it with some vinyl tubing and electrical tape. Will post some pics when I can get them from the camera... it's top-quality redneck craftsmanship, I tell ya what
Looks like I can get to the lower hose clamp with only a little trouble if I remove the intercooler pipe. Probably oughta do the spark plugs while I'm in there, they're the originals with 69k.
#6
Go with the OEM plugs! Some guys have good luck running aftermarket plugs but most do not, including myself.
Redneck Craftsmanship FTW!!! Lol.
I had to move the Charge Air Pipe as well. Hardest part was getting the new hose to seat properly on the oil separator. Not a lot of room in there. If you fidget with it for a bit you'll get it just fine. Hose clamp was cake with a socket set and short extension.
Redneck Craftsmanship FTW!!! Lol.
I had to move the Charge Air Pipe as well. Hardest part was getting the new hose to seat properly on the oil separator. Not a lot of room in there. If you fidget with it for a bit you'll get it just fine. Hose clamp was cake with a socket set and short extension.
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