2008 S60 2.5T Sedan Motor Mounts
#1
2008 S60 2.5T Sedan Motor Mounts
Does anyone know how many motor/transmission mounts and their locations on the 2008 S60 2.5T sedan? I saw 1 on top of the engine at the driver side and another one under the engine in front next to the transmission. How hard to replace them and is there any special required tool to do the job?
I don't have any Volvo but try to learn to fix my daughter's car so any help is appreciated.
Thank you,
I don't have any Volvo but try to learn to fix my daughter's car so any help is appreciated.
Thank you,
#2
#3
Thanks ES6T for the help, I found a part diagram for S60 (as attached) online and I believe the mounts that I preferred to are #9, 56, 19, 32 and 41. I would appreciate if you can validate to what I identified are correct. Once the mounts are positive identified, I will check all of them to make sure what mounts are needed to replace.
Regards,
#5
Thanks ES6T, Looks like I need to replace 15, 23 and 40 first. The part for 15 is not bad but dealer lists $103.30 each for item 23 and 40 (cost more than the engine mounts on my Mercedes SLK). I will search online for better price.
Again, thank you ES6T for the help.
#6
When changing the top mount, what about the cross member bushings 2 and 3.
Also, should the sub-frame bushings 25,26, 29 be checked or changed or a periodic bases.
I recently picked up a 2004 S60 which needed new head light lens on both sides and a couple ABS wheel sensors. While doing the other stuff I noticed the top has cracked rubber.
Also, should the sub-frame bushings 25,26, 29 be checked or changed or a periodic bases.
I recently picked up a 2004 S60 which needed new head light lens on both sides and a couple ABS wheel sensors. While doing the other stuff I noticed the top has cracked rubber.
#7
#8
2004 with 166K miles, I changed all 5 mounts yesterday installing Hutchinson units.
I used this FCP video as a guide. It covers the bottom cone/top shaped rubber (hydraulic) mounts.
You have to remove the top mount cross bar support to see the rear bottom mount, so it is a good time to replace the top as well. The top nut of the rear bottom mount is a straight shot so I used a deep 15mm with a piece of electrical tape over the edge to hold the nut. This was also used for reinstalling it.
Unless also doing the torsion bar bushings, you will need a 14mm swivel socket for the bottom bolt of the rear bottom mount. I used a small pry bar to move the torsion bar enough to get the socket on. I think the bar is thicker on the S60 since the extension hits the bar preventing the socket from getting on the bolt head. A 1/4 drive unit should work. Important - - Run the threads of the new mount to ensure the bolt goes in easily. You only have the tips of your fingers to start the bolt.
I removed the air filter box and air horn to give me more room for the front bottom mount. As you can see in the video, it is a tight fit to get it passed the plumbing.
Since you unbolt the right engine block before lifting the engine, it is a perfect time to replace it. With the engine up, you can easily get to the frame bolts holding it down.
My top and bottom torque mounts were shot, the center rubber of the top fell out. The cone mounts were compressed enough to allow the cable to flip out of the groove. No more cluck out of the driveway and no more drift on the highway.
I did it by myself, but a helper would have been good when lowering / raising the engine to get it aligned to the new mounts. I purchased a Craftsman swivel socket set for the job, you also need about 2.5 feet of extensions.
I used this FCP video as a guide. It covers the bottom cone/top shaped rubber (hydraulic) mounts.
You have to remove the top mount cross bar support to see the rear bottom mount, so it is a good time to replace the top as well. The top nut of the rear bottom mount is a straight shot so I used a deep 15mm with a piece of electrical tape over the edge to hold the nut. This was also used for reinstalling it.
Unless also doing the torsion bar bushings, you will need a 14mm swivel socket for the bottom bolt of the rear bottom mount. I used a small pry bar to move the torsion bar enough to get the socket on. I think the bar is thicker on the S60 since the extension hits the bar preventing the socket from getting on the bolt head. A 1/4 drive unit should work. Important - - Run the threads of the new mount to ensure the bolt goes in easily. You only have the tips of your fingers to start the bolt.
I removed the air filter box and air horn to give me more room for the front bottom mount. As you can see in the video, it is a tight fit to get it passed the plumbing.
Since you unbolt the right engine block before lifting the engine, it is a perfect time to replace it. With the engine up, you can easily get to the frame bolts holding it down.
My top and bottom torque mounts were shot, the center rubber of the top fell out. The cone mounts were compressed enough to allow the cable to flip out of the groove. No more cluck out of the driveway and no more drift on the highway.
I did it by myself, but a helper would have been good when lowering / raising the engine to get it aligned to the new mounts. I purchased a Craftsman swivel socket set for the job, you also need about 2.5 feet of extensions.
Last edited by bikerider58; 09-27-2015 at 10:07 AM.
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