AC/Heating Issues Blower Fan Motor Not Working Properly
#1
AC/Heating Issues Blower Fan Motor Not Working Properly
Hi Folks! Hope all is well!
Just recently I got a new (to me) car... it's a 2013 S60 T5 AWD. She's been running alright since I got her back in April. I just recently have been having issues with the HVAC system, though. It started probably 3 weeks ago or so when the weather started to get really hot and muggy. Whenever the car was really hot, air wouldn't blow out of the vents until after a while of driving (even with the **** manually turned all the way up, and the auto mode off). I figured it was some sort of system Volvo had in place so that it wouldn't blow hot air through the vents to make it even more uncomfortable, but now I am convinced there is an even bigger issue here. The blower motor doesn't seem to work at all for about 90% of the time, and for the 10% of the time it does work, the air coming out of the vents is very faint, or probably even half capacity, with the **** at 100%.
At first I thought it was a bad capacitor in the fan, because it seemed it would start after being assisted, (opening the moon-roof and causing suction in the cabin, causing the fan to spin.) And that kept it on for a few moments but it wouldn't stay on. I did some research and now I believe it may be either a bad fan resistor or a bad blower motor? Please, if anybody is willing to share some of their wisdom, I don't want to spend money on the wrong part and end up having to buy more than is needed.
I appreciate any and all help, and thank you for your time.
Steve
Just recently I got a new (to me) car... it's a 2013 S60 T5 AWD. She's been running alright since I got her back in April. I just recently have been having issues with the HVAC system, though. It started probably 3 weeks ago or so when the weather started to get really hot and muggy. Whenever the car was really hot, air wouldn't blow out of the vents until after a while of driving (even with the **** manually turned all the way up, and the auto mode off). I figured it was some sort of system Volvo had in place so that it wouldn't blow hot air through the vents to make it even more uncomfortable, but now I am convinced there is an even bigger issue here. The blower motor doesn't seem to work at all for about 90% of the time, and for the 10% of the time it does work, the air coming out of the vents is very faint, or probably even half capacity, with the **** at 100%.
At first I thought it was a bad capacitor in the fan, because it seemed it would start after being assisted, (opening the moon-roof and causing suction in the cabin, causing the fan to spin.) And that kept it on for a few moments but it wouldn't stay on. I did some research and now I believe it may be either a bad fan resistor or a bad blower motor? Please, if anybody is willing to share some of their wisdom, I don't want to spend money on the wrong part and end up having to buy more than is needed.
I appreciate any and all help, and thank you for your time.
Steve
Last edited by StevenStowik; 07-12-2019 at 06:11 PM. Reason: Typo ("fan" not "vent")
#2
UPDATE
Hi again,
Yesterday I was told that it was possibly low refrigerant causing a low pressure switch causing the condenser to disengage. I went out and bought a can of R-134a with a gauge. After locating the low pressure service port, I checked the levels and it seemed to be at a good level. (40psi @ 75 degrees Fahrenheit). So it was holding pressure. No leaks, no low pressure. Upon locating the low pressure service port, I found the fan motor... so I stuck my hand in while the **** was at 100%... and I just gave it a light spin, it took, and it continued spinning by itself.
With that said, what does this mean? Is this a bad fan motor?
Thanks again,
Steve
Hi again,
Yesterday I was told that it was possibly low refrigerant causing a low pressure switch causing the condenser to disengage. I went out and bought a can of R-134a with a gauge. After locating the low pressure service port, I checked the levels and it seemed to be at a good level. (40psi @ 75 degrees Fahrenheit). So it was holding pressure. No leaks, no low pressure. Upon locating the low pressure service port, I found the fan motor... so I stuck my hand in while the **** was at 100%... and I just gave it a light spin, it took, and it continued spinning by itself.
With that said, what does this mean? Is this a bad fan motor?
Thanks again,
Steve
#3
UPDATE
Hi again,
Yesterday I was told that it was possibly low refrigerant causing a low pressure switch causing the condenser to disengage. I went out and bought a can of R-134a with a gauge. After locating the low pressure service port, I checked the levels and it seemed to be at a good level. (40psi @ 75 degrees Fahrenheit). So it was holding pressure. No leaks, no low pressure. Upon locating the low pressure service port, I found the fan motor... so I stuck my hand in while the **** was at 100%... and I just gave it a light spin, it took, and it continued spinning by itself.
With that said, what does this mean? Is this a bad fan motor?
Thanks again,
Steve
Hi again,
Yesterday I was told that it was possibly low refrigerant causing a low pressure switch causing the condenser to disengage. I went out and bought a can of R-134a with a gauge. After locating the low pressure service port, I checked the levels and it seemed to be at a good level. (40psi @ 75 degrees Fahrenheit). So it was holding pressure. No leaks, no low pressure. Upon locating the low pressure service port, I found the fan motor... so I stuck my hand in while the **** was at 100%... and I just gave it a light spin, it took, and it continued spinning by itself.
With that said, what does this mean? Is this a bad fan motor?
Thanks again,
Steve
Here's a good video for examining the blower replacement...
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