I’m experiencing an intermittent starting issue with my 2008 S60 2.5T (AWD). The winter of 2016/2017 is when this issue began. I turn the key and the ignition excessively cranks and most of the time starts, but not all the time.

When the issue first started, I recorded video of the instrument panel when attempting to start the car to show to my auto shop. They were unable to use the videos to shed any light on possible causes. During the excessive cranking, the engine would sometimes 'stutter' making it seem as if the engine was finally going to fire up, but it would go back to cranking. Along with the 'stutter', the tachometer would jump up as well (as if the car was about to start), but come back down once I stopped turning the key over.

I initially thought this was an issue with my battery because I believe the battery was original (approx. 8 years old at the time). I dropped in a new battery from the dealer, but the issue persisted. I took it to my shop, but the mechanics were unable to reproduce the issue. The weather got nicer and the problem became rarer.

Fast forward to this winter (2017/2018) and the problem is back, but this time around, it's much worse. There have been days I've gone without a car because attempting to start the car 5-8 times with nothing but excessive cranking and the "reduced engine performance" message in the instrument panel was just running the battery down. I should mention that jumping never worked.

This year, I decided to leave it at the shop for extended periods of time. The shop initially pulled a code that said the antenna ring (engine immobilizer) needed to be replaced; the shop replaced it. A week later, I was back to square one.

When I took the car back to the shop, they got the antenna ring code again but said that the code could sometimes come up with any bad start. They received an additional code - this time for the crank position/shaft sensor. The sensor was replaced and about two weeks later, the car is having starting issues again. Often times the car is starting, but not revving up to the correct RPMs to get the car warmed up (about 1,500 RPM). Sometimes it immediately sinks down to 500 RPM after starting, even when starting first thing in the morning! Other times, the car 'stutters' and if possible, I can press the accelerator and help the engine fire up and maintain at idle.

It seems that this issue is greatly affected by very cold weather. I've had no problems with tachometer spiking or stalling while driving. The fuel filter was just replaced this past autumn (2017). The spark plugs were replaced just months prior to that.

If anyone has any advice on where to go from here, I'd greatly appreciate it. My shop has mentioned replacing the engine harness to rule out any issues with engine/computer communication, but that's very costly. As of today (2/5/2018), I've been advised to have someone tap on the starter while trying to start the car, as the shop may go down the road of testing to see if the starter needs to be replaced. I've spent nearly $300 on parts that may not have necessarily needed to be replaced but were replaced as a measure of ruling them out as possible causes.

 

Someone is having the same issue on their S80 and I replied. My suggestion is that when you have the excessive crank and no start, pull out one plug and see if it is wet. It will tell you whether it is a fuel or spark issue.

Now, if it is genuinely the ring around the key, that's another story but start with the basics.

 

This sounds a lot like the problem I'm having with my 2008 S60. It starts fine when it's hot, and runs fine, but has trouble starting when it's cold. I'm getting no fuel pressure at the rail when the key is turned to "On" but it jumps up to around 43 PSI when idling.

 

UPDATE: I'm sure this issue hasn't fully been resolved yet, but now that the weather is warming up, I'm not able to produce the issue consistently. It may go dormant again during the summer months like it did last year.

 

I've created a video to aid in this discussion - . Before watching, check out the description as it contains lots of information that goes along with the video. Hopefully, this will help in getting a better understanding of my issue.

 

 

This is a fine example of what I believe to be a major problem with auto repair these days.

The $150+/hour "technicians" don't know squat about fixing cars - all they know how to do is read codes and replace any mentioned part. What happens when the replaced part does not solve the problem? Do they offer to restore the original and refund the parts cost + the $95 charged for connecting the car to their computer? Sure, and pigs fly!

My car just spent three weeks in the dealer's shop while they tried to resolve an absolute "no start" problem. It was finally apparently cured by replacing a cable/fusible link combination. Since my car was still under CPO warranty I didn't pay for it and had a loaner to use so it was an inconvenience, not a disaster but it was a prime example of the issue.