Originally Posted by keesue

I found the procedure to get the CEM out, reemove the shunt and to repair the problem. I have copied that procedure here in case someone else needs it. I'm going to do this on Monday when I can get a new shunt. I'll post my results. I'll also measure the resistance with the new shunt and post that as well.



Symptoms: Headlights not on, system display reads "BULB FAILURE DIPPED BEAM"
Problem: Shunt is overheating, carbon has deposited on shunt connection. Need to replace shunt, clean carbon off CEM connector. You will need: patience, no-residue electrical connection cleaner, T25 torx bit, flashlight, 400 grit sandpaper, volvo part# 9442190 costs $9 (same part# for S60) Entire procedure is same as S60.

First, disconnect the negative lead from the battery. Then use the t25 torx to remove 2 screws that lie near the footwell/pedal light. You'll need to pull this panel down(with strong force) on the left side, then the right. Then, to disconnect it from the center consol, this "sound barrier" must be pushed up and toward the front of the car. You'll get it, just be careful.

Now with the plastic out of the way, you'll need to locate the CEM. Its directly in front of the obd port. To remove the CEM from it's clips, you'll need a screwdriver(I pried the clips with my bare hands). You will be upside-down and backwards, so you are looking towards the sky in the footwell. The clip that holds the CEM in place is behind it on the port side, the side closest to the door. It must be pulled directly away from the CEM. At the same time, pull the cem not down but back towards the obd port. It will take a few tries, as it will try to clip back into place. You can now maneuver the CEM down into a more workable location. Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket ... CT2320.jpg
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You will see the burnt part of the cem even with the shunt still in. It is obvious, yellowy/black burned plastic. Pull the shunt out like you would a fuse.
Take a break...
Before going back to work on the car, take 400 grit(or something close to 400) and cut about a 8cm by 1cm rectangle. You need it to slip into the connector(just the burned one where the old shunt sat. Sand the inside of that connection real good. Your sandpaper will become dicolored, proving that you are cleaning. Sand it until you feel it's clean enough. I gave it a good 20-30 strokes. Clean with electrical cleaner. Let cleaner dry(30min to be sure). You are ready to replace the shunt(with the new one), replace the CEM, and put everything back together.

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Originally Posted by MC2006S60

I'm having the same issue with my driver side low beam. However, my driver side rear running lights also go out from time to time but if I tap the lens cover they come back on.

Did you ever figure out what was causing this?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by LORDZBORDOM

I have a 06 S40 t5 and my low beams have been acting up for awhile now.The car was in an accident on the front passenger side I had it repaired and the light assembly was replaced w a used one and worked fine.......for awhile. Then after about 2 months the drivers side would fail intermittently at start up. After about a month of this the passenger side went out completely. I have since replaced the bulb but it has since never came on. Also since this problem arose I have been experiencing some intermittent engine problems where the turbo spools harder than usual and then stops and there is a vibration underneath the car. My cousin who is a genius w AWD turbo eclipses says its probably a misfire. I honestly dont know. I could REALLY USE SOME HELP WITH THIS!!!!! I live in Chicago right next to where a lot of people street race and the cops F*@k with me constantly and I need to get this resolved ASAP!