I see (from looking at other threads) that using dino oil in these turbos, just like in any other turbos is futile. Looking through the previous owner's records their mechanic used 10W30 and from I can tell not the best quality at that. Of course my first oil change reveals all bunch of caked on shavings/dust on the bottom of the oil filter housing cap-whatever. I used to deal with some engines in the similar condition but not turbos nor were they Volvos. What would be the safest process of cleaning the engine from the "presents" without jeopardizing the oil passages. I'd also like to measure oil pressure, just in case, cause imo if the light comes on you can pretty much kiss that engine bye-bye, at least in most cases.
Thanks!

 

How often did they change the oil? Volvo recommends 7,500 and IMO you never go past 3,000.
I have seen these motors run only synthetic and be the same way.
What the killer is that people follow what Volvo says 7,500. But they do not have time to get it changed when it should and it turns into 10,000 miles between oil changes.
That is the main killer of these motors.

I have a 850 turbo run on dyno oil up to about 2 years ago but it was changed every 3k and still looks almost like new inside at 282k miles.

 

Thanks Tech,
It's kind of sad that they have taken it to the regular inde shop that should have known what they were doing and suspect they did, just didn't care. From the records looks like they started at around 3k and slowly but surely progress up to 8 towards the current time.
Do you feel that it is only the sludge that is killing these engine with this kind of treatemnet or it the combination of the sludge and the just too much ware from infrequent oil changes?
I am planning on saving this engine, what would be the safest approach?
I was going to keep changing the oil (using dyno, 5w20 for now) with 500-1000mi frequency after cleaning out the oil pan at least once, just to see how much is there. Then slowly converting it to blend and then full synthetic.
I realize it's impossible to predict how it's gona end up, but knowing you have some experience wanted to know your opinion.
btw, there were some metal shavings on the drain plug but it did not look completely like a porcupine

 

Sorry for the delay on getting back to you.
It is mainly due to lack of oil changes. Also make sure the crank case system is working properly. That does not help if it is not working properly.

We are starting to use Pennzoil high mileage oil at the shop on sludge cars. It claims to clean 40% on the first oil change. We have seen it work very well on sludge cars. You might want to try it.

 

Thanks Tech!
Any help I can get is greatly appreciated. You are the second person who is telling me about the Pennzoil HM for cleaning purpose. I am using Auto-RX in it rite now and if I am not satisfied with result after the second treatment, may drop the pen and use the Pennzoil no harm in that I guess.
How do you recommend to check what is the pressure rite now? I asked local Kragen if they have something, they don't. I guess that would be the easiest procedure to check if all seals in the crank case are intact.

 

Are you asking about checking the oil pressure?
If so I think a normal aftermarket oil pressure gauge is pretty cheap. You can remove the stock pressure switch and screw the gauge in and start the car to see what the pressure is. We do that at works when I car comes in with a flashing oil light.

If the seals are coming out they will be leaking bad. If the cam and crank area is dry I would not worry about it right now.

 

Perfect, that is what I am going to do Tech. Get myself a gage and see if the pressure drops significantly after the warm-up. Will deal with seals if I have to & sorry for the convoluted question, I am glad you knew what I was asking

 

Good luck hope it all goes well.

 

Well, I found where to by an oil pressure tester, but that got me thinking.... a bad idea to begin with. What if the oil pressure is fine and dandy today and tomorrow the sludge gets disturbed somehow at he bottom of the pan or the infamous pickup tube seals start acting up, I will not know what's going on until the light comes on and at that point it could be too late. What if I install a permanent oil pressure gauge, either electrical or mechanical (with the little oil hose) from the engine to my dash? I've always preferred the real (mechanical) oil gauge, but it's possibly messy. Any recommendations?
I also looked for the oil pressure switch, that's where I'd like to tap into the system. Was able to find only one switch in the vicinity of the dipstick tube in front of the engine. How do I know if that's it?
Thanks!

 

There will be a single wire going to it. It has a white plastic plug.
If the car starts having issues the light will flicker when at idle.

 

Thanks Tech,
I was able to see it only using my mirror & it does have a little white cap (where you squeeze it on the sides to release it) on it with a single wire going to it.
So what would you preference electric or mechanical sending unit for the gauge?
Thanks!

 

Well I kind of like the mechanical gauges but I hate the idea of oil running inside the car.
I am fighting the same question myself at the moment for my Yellow one.

 

haha,
I'll let you know when and if I decide
But I am leaning towards the mechanical one too, that's what I had on the very firs truck i drove and of course it had a solid copper line to it. After all what is couple of quarts of oil on your lap compare to the knowledge that you do the "right thing"
I am more concerned now that sludge I have now can plug up a little opening in the sending unit or the gauge itself and I'll embarrass myself rite there in the car when the oil light goes off but the gauge will show zero.

 

Keep me posted.

 

Over at Matthews volvo site, they have mentioned having good results using Seafoam on engine and also to clean carbon build up in the system. Do a research on this seafoam

 

Yep, I know seafoam to be a very good product and use it in all my vehicles on a regular basis, I just feel uncomfortable using it as a sludge loosener/disolver I guess it depends how much sludge. For now the autoRx should do the job I guess. When i am done with that I will seafoame it on the topside and see how it does.