Sure dealers are great, Volvo fluid is synthetic and I can fly. I can tell you that Ford’s Mercon V(Ford Explorer - my second car)is more synthetic then Vovlo’s at least it stays red after 50k of abuse and does not cause any shifting problems.

Dealers are great!

Example:
I went to dealership to find car history and to replace engine oil with amsoil. They install two license plates covers(with name of the dealership) and charged me for license plate bulbs $16 also (I did not ask for it and my bulbs were fine too…)
They told me that my car is in great shape:
1. Battery is new
2. Transmission fluid - in good condition

…17 days after service my car had a problem on highway(I had to stop on the rest aria). I could not start this car anymore… all symptoms were like electric system dead. I remember like it was yesterday… My wife was holding umbrella and I was trying to figure out what was wrong… Finally I found the problem:
After Volvo service the “+” cable was loose (not secured with bolt at all ) and battery connector and cable were covered with resistant garbage. For some reason Volvo tech disconnected this cable and never secured it. WTF?

They did mention that battery was in god condition and transmission fluid was in good shape.

…so after this incident I replaced transmission fluid with amsoil which is 100% synthetic and will meet Volvo spec.
… Just give them(amsoil) a call as a tech from Volvo but before you do so find all parameters from Volvo oil… so you can argue with oil educated people or wait …it does have all parameters as mobile one fluid.

Spark Plugs:
1. gap will grow overtime.
2. Coil have to supply more power overtime (Volvo has great electric system I am sure it will handle it?!)
3. It will reduce efficiency and will create misfire overtime.

Also I bought NGK plugs Iridium ix, and will install them this weekend… Architecture of the plug the same Volvo or not Volvo …parameter would be the same or better!
…all 5 plugs had different gaps(from 0.27-0.30), I re-gaped them to 0.30 will see how they perform. (Volvo spec. 0.28-0.32)

 

Red let's be clear here.
Amsoil is NOT manufactured to JWS 3309. It is recommended as suitable for Volvo JWS 3309 oil spec by only Amsoil.

Having said all of that, I have no trepidation towards using that fluid in the trans. I have never heard one complaint of Amsoil trans fluid messing with the shift patterns etc. They are a superior oil company. If you used Dexron/Mercon/Mercon V or Dexron 6 then you have yourself problems.

Just saying that Mobil 3309 is available and is the correct fluid according to the oil specs. Keep us informed as to how the car is shifting with that fluid.

Or you can just take the advise of some "tech"s on here and just leave the fluid in there to get oxidized and varnished and trash the AW trans over time.

 

Fred,

I think that Mobil 3309 should be a fluid of choice without any risk and it is recommended instead of Volvo fluid...

…Why I decided “amsoil”?

1. I do my research I found that Mobil one 3309 is the one.(Your posts are very informative + discussions)
2. found statistics on Toyota forums... people used amsoil.
3. I call amsoil and asked … what will happen if my transmission dies from amsoil? …they told me that amsoil will cover expenses.
4. Better parameters…
5. There was not much difference in price. Amsoil will cost you $79 per 12 if you buy 6 month “membership” for $10
6. I would like to change fluid every 30-60k (after evaluation through amsoil analysis)

I compared options and decided to accept this risk. I am not saying that my choice correct or not (I do not know) …

So far no problems with amsoil I love this car and how it shifts now…. I will post 1 month report.

 

I think Amsoil is great stuff for the Trans.

You won't have an issue.

Hint: Dont' call Mobil 3309 "Mobil 1 3309" that mucks it up. Mobil 1 ATF is Dexron/Mercon and is synthetic and wouldn't work in Aisin Warner trans. Mobil 3309 IS the exact same oil as the volvo grade. In fact a guy on Volvo speed did a gas chromography test of both Volvo and Mobil 3309 trans fluids and they came out exactly the same.

There is no doubt .

 

Coppers are just fine for plugs. They won't last 60 K like Plats but at a price of $2 per plug who cares? Replace them yearly, it's an easy job. I am sure Bosch's are fine. I like Champion coppers and plats. One of the cars has Denso in it right now. That one is a NA so who knows what is happenning. Milage is good though.

Only use Mobil 3309 trans oil (never ever Mercon/Dexron types).

Clean the TB out and open the butterfly spray around the orifice and wipe clean with a clean towel. EvenTECH on here corrected me and said he uses brake flud which I thought was too agressive but he said the IAC won't be affected nor the electronics. I just felt safer using an approved TB spray.

Change your air filter,

Use (if you do it yourself ) a synthetic oil like Pennzoil Plat, or Mobil 1 or EP or Amsoil 5/30. You could go 7500 miles easily. Get filters from Napa for about $8 apiece (Napa gold which is Wix) or go online to IPD and get five for $25 including shipping. Those are Mann filters.

Also if you have a S60 NA, just a hint. When you do the plugs look for oil leakage from the oil cap down to the coil plugs. I just had that. I got a oil capgasket from FPC Groton online for $1.75, and It fixed it. I was losing 1/4 quart a month. Very common problem on that model year.

 

Can't the oil leak be a cause of something more serious like PVC system problems, and isntalling a gasket can cause other gaskets to blow out?

 

Dude, you didn't read what I wrote.
I said I had a specific oil leak caused directly from the gasket at the oil cap.
A new gasket fixed it.

I was suggesting to you that for $1.75 you change that gasket and eliminate a common problem on 01 and 02 Volvo S60's.

 

alright, thanks for the heads up (seriously)

 

The Oil cap seal isnt just a problem on the year specific car. it is all cars. but i change them out per every oil change and service.

also the beleive on the 01- i cant remember if its every 30k or not, the PCV nipple is suppose to be cleaned. it does help. If not it can cause pressure and start to cause oil leakes over time.

The S60 has a diaphram in the oil trap, (oil seperator) which ever you choose to call it. which can rupture and cause a loud squealing noise. just pull the oil cap off and see if you have excessive pressure or blow by.. Alot of time when this happens it literally sucks on the oil cap and its a bit harder to get off..