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One low beam headlight not working - fuses and bulb OK

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Old 04-18-2019, 11:26 PM
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Default One low beam headlight not working - fuses and bulb OK

Hi guys,
I recently swapped out the transmission and on the initial start after the install, realized that the driver side low beam headlight wasn't working. High beam work on both sides.
Here's what I've done so far:
-replaced the bulb with 2 new ones and even tried them on the passenger side. They work fine on the passenger side.
-tested and visually inspected both inside and under hood fuses, they are all fine. Also swapped around the relay with another one of similar value, to no avail
-reset the ECU - not sure if that would have done anything, but it was worth a try. It didn't help, by the way

Not sure if this relates to the issue, but I've noticed that, although I generally leave the headlight switch in the automatic position, I now can't turn off the headlights manually.

All of the other lights seem to be operating normally and none is blown.

I have searched this forum and the web in general for a solution to this pesky problem, but no luck. There are a number of posts where it's both headlights that are out - not just one, and where all of the fuses and the bulb(s) were fine.

Although it's a bit inconvenient and somewhat restrictive, I have taken the precaution of not driving after dark.

Thanks in advance for any help with resolving this matter.
 
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Old 04-19-2019, 08:29 AM
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time to get a wiring diagram. Sounds like you may have a ground wire problem
 
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Old 04-20-2019, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mt6127
time to get a wiring diagram. Sounds like you may have a ground wire problem
Hmmm...that could very well be. I had to splice a few connectors as replacements for the existing ones because the original wires were brittle from heat damage and connectors were just as brittle. As best I can recall, there's 1 direct ground point on the engine\transmission package. The ground wire is attached to the engine on the passenger side of the engine compartment, from the firewall to somewhere on the top of the engine, just a few inches from the cam solenoid. I just thought of something else though: While reinstalling the engine/tranny combo, and then after connecting the battery, I realized that I had a loose alternator cable and while tightening it up, I accidentally shorted the wrench with the car, resulting in a big spark. Not sure if that would contribute to the problem or not, since at worst I would have expected a blown fuse somewhere. I spent the better part of the day combing through the engine compartment to see if there was anything obviously amiss, but everything seems fine. I also again tested the fuses, and none is blown. I have also visited the CEM and changed out shunt CSH4 and relay CM17 without success.

Anyway, I downloaded the wiring diagram from https://cardiagn.com/2003-volvo-s60-...iagram-online/, but it is mostly greek to me.

Still hoping that someone can point me on a firm path to resolving this, as I'd like to drive the car after dark without the risk of getting a ticket, or worse.

Thanks!
 
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Old 04-30-2019, 02:49 PM
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I too am having the same problem with a 2006 S60, low beam drivers side.. Swapped out entire headlight assembly. Same problem. Fuses good. Check and there is 12v at fuse box. Maybe it is a wire ?

Are there any relays that could cause a problem ?

mt6127 have you resolved your problem yet ?
 
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Old 04-30-2019, 07:12 PM
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not my problem - I just provided some input to the OP. Not sure why you started by swapping out the headlight bucket... first step is check bulbs, next is check fuses, then check voltage at the bulb connector, then check voltage at the fuse. If you are still 0V then you need to check voltage at the CEM. To note most early 2000s Volvos put the low beam relays inside the CEM so if you have a relay issue, it requires fixing or replacing the CEM.
 
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Old 06-01-2019, 02:53 PM
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Had same problem on my 2000 S40. Each low beam headlight has a 5 pin relay inside the CEM. Common part, easily found online and cheap. Volvo placed a decal over the screw holding the CEM case together---and you have to solder the pin to the PC board. Sounds tougher than it is. Good luck.
 
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