Hi,

I've got an '01 S60, 2.4L engine, 120K miles. It's showing the following symptoms:

• Erratic error codes. I occasionally get signal bulb flags that go away on the next start-up. About a week ago I got an "emission system service needed" error for a day, which never came back. The service schedule does not show this needing attention at 120K miles (I had it tuned up only several months ago, though not by a Volvo dealer).
• battery discharging. I've noticed sluggish starting for a while, then early this week the solenoid only chattered. I had the battery tested, and it only showed low charge. I haven't checked the fluid level yet.
• stalling at stops and sudden slowdowns. This just started yesterday. Whenever I stop, the engine stalls unless I keep pressure on the accelerator. The engine idles between 800-900 rpm standing still in Drive.

I suppose there's an idle screw that I can crank up a bit to solve the stalling problem, but I'm trying to see if there's any deeper issue that would explain all these symptoms. The erratic codes make me wonder if there's a computer issue, but I think the signal bulb error is probably a bulb on the way out or a ground issue. I'm more concerned about the emissions error.

Any insight you could give would be very much appreciated.

Paul

 

have you checked your plugs???? what type plugs did you use when you did your tune up??? Ngk or bosch would be the plug of choice for volvo's do not use a cheap plug as you will have troubles. My 03 was stalling, so I decided to change my plugs I used ngk platinum plugs...when I pulled the old plugs out and to my surprise 3 of the 5 plugs where completely shot....if i were to guess I would say check your plugs make sure they are not fouled, I would also recommend putting some fuel injector cleaner in your gas tank as I did....today my cars runs just fine, no more stalling or dropping in rpm's while idling....hope this helps with problem

 

Thanks much, I'll try to check them right now, if I can get the torx screws out. I checked online, and I see there is no idle adjustment for the s60. I suspect there is another issue anyway, for the idle itself shouldn't got haywire so suddenly. The fuel injector cleaner sounds like a great idea too. I'll let you know what I find.

 

Wow. I went to Advance yesterday for the injector additive and torx wrench. The guy recommended Lucas for the FIs. I put some in and didn't go two miles before I began to sense more power and smoother running. When I got home I put in some more...

I'm cleaning out a storage bin today, so checking the plugs and the battery levels will probably wait until Sunday. I'll report back when I know something. Meanwhile, thanks again for your help.

 

when you add your fuel injector cleaner it is very important to have almost a full tank of gas, put the cleaner in and not add any more gas...run the car till you get below a 1/4 tank and almost empty...then put fill your car...I think the fuel injector cleaner will do the trick you might also want to think about changing the fuel filter depending on how it has been since it has been changed! lastly if you don't have a good plug in your car that can also contribute to the problem....glad you felt a surge in power!!! good luck and let us know!

 

To and from the storage bin today, at no time did the idle go under 800. I'm also seeing a renewal of the original power. Just in time, too, because I was hauling a loaded trailer. I had no idea this was so important, or that it had been so neglected. Probably will check the plugs tomorrow. Thanks again.

 

you also might want to load test your battery and also check the alternator to make sure it is charging properly- unless you have something draining your battery. the other issues you described point in that direction. if you have a volt meter, the battery should read around 12.6v before startup, not drop below 10.4v during cranking, bounce right back to 12- 12.6v if shut off right away (or disabled from starting). then should read 14v or more while running.

 

Titanium, thanks much for that info. I've saved it to disk for future reference.

I checked the battery fluid levels, and they are fine. I test-started the engine, and the battery was strong. One thing I should have stated originally is that the car gets only very light use. Maybe that is a factor here. It could be that after a lot of driving yesterday the battery is charged, but it won't last. I'm going to watch it for a while before I run the load testing. IAC, I've got to hand it to Volvo for putting a quality battery in the car; this is the original.

I went to check the plugs, but when I saw that I had to pull them just to see the brand, I aborted. With the injector treatment, the engine feels great, so I think that was pretty much the sum total of the problem.

Thanks much, again. And if I find anything new I'll post back.

 

Hi,

I wanted to update this thread with new info. The story was that the `01 S60 was stalling at stops and had a weak battery.

The battery continued to be weak, to the point that after sitting for two days it wouldn't crank the engine. The amazing thing is that this battery appears to be original. It's a Volvo battery, and I bought the car in '04 and never replaced it. So it's surprising it made it this long. I spoke with a mechanic who said it sounded like it simply was over the hill.

But instead of replacing it, yesterday I tried desulfanating it and adding new electrolyte. All I have is a small trickle charger for my motorcycle, so I threw that on it, and after a couple of hours the car started fine.

The next big test was this morning. I went out and cranked it, and the engine sprang to life. The battery was strong! It's too early to judge whether the problem really is solved. That will take trying to start the car after it sits a few days. But it looks very hopeful.

But here's the odd part. You will remember that the other part of my problem was rough idling and stalling at lights. When the engine started this morning it ran extremely roughly. This was out of the blue. It had been operating perfectly. Now it suddenly was back to stalling at stops and when turning at intersections.

So I'm wondering, are the fuel injectors sensitive to the strength of the battery? What possible connection might there be between these two problems?

I put some more injector cleaner in the gas. Maybe all this is a strange coincidence. But it would be very strange indeed. I guess I'll know more in a couple of days.

p.

 

did you ever change the plugs???? check your plugs, they probably are bad and need replacing since I don't see anywhere in your thread where you changed them....also it is possible that you have a coil pack going bad, I would start with the plugs firs then see how your car is running b4 spending $$$$ on a coil pack, buy yourself ngk platinum plugs for around $4 a plug you will see a surge in the cars performance especially if your plugs are the original plugs like your battery!!! keep us posted

 

MY 01-02 have ETM problems and they cause erratic idle, surging, stalls. Dealer shld replace for free after they do their tests wc will cost u about $500. Try a thorough clean on your ETM then observe is it improves. Do ur search on procedure to clean etm in different forums.

 

patsfn2,

Thanks again for your input. I was going to let the car sit in order to test the battery renewal, but seeing how the engine behaved took precedence. I cranked it this morning and one would be hard put not to think the battery was new. Does that last? I don't know yet, but so far it's amazing indeed, and I think I saved myself a bunch of money.

It took two cranks to start the engine this morning, which is somewhat unusual, but the rough idle was totally gone. I had put some injector cleaner in the gas tank yesterday, but that was after I shut the engine down, so it couldn't be a factor in the immediate running of the engine after startup today.

I think the engine isn't running at full power, though. It's a hard thing to gauge, but that's the sense I have (I run it on Regular grade gas, but then I always have). So maybe changing the plugs would be in order? I had the car tuned up some eight months ago, but who knows what he really did.
____________

Manu, I went through the ETM routine a few years back. I was getting surging and some "safe home" fallback performance. I took it to the dealer and they ended up flashing the OS. That seemed to solve the problem.

I'm not sure what you mean by "wc". If I brought it in, and the ETM was implicated, would not the entire job still be under warranty, or are you saying there's some charge involved? I generally go to the dealer as a last resort.

Paul

 

If they end up replacing the ETM, the unit should be free but they will do some test and cleaning the ETM first and that will cost you about $500. After cleaning and test is done and same prob. props up, then they will replace. The ETMS have an extended warranty for 10 yrs. or 200K miles as mentioned somewhere here.

 

Ok, thanks for that info. Rather than jump at spending the $500, I'll first exhaust the other possibilities. Meanwhile I'll check out cleaning the ETM as you suggest.

p.

 

check your plugs first, how many miles are on the plugs you have in the car currently???? do you have any engine codes?? has check engine come light on?? if so check for codes.....I am wondering if your having a misfire, and if so you should have some type of engine code.....does your car sort of jerk when driving??? a sign of a coil pack going bad is the rough idle, jerking when driving, lack of power having gone a cylinder down, as well as an engine misfire code showing up.

 

No, none of those symptoms, really, except the rough idling and low rpm stalling when it does manifest. If the last guy changed the plugs, which he should have done, I don't have many miles at all on them - 2k perhaps, tops. No codes, misfires or jerks. I think a plug change would be wise at this point, if even to see what it does for power.

p.

 

paul...if this guy changed the plugs and did not check the gap on the plug this could possible create some of what your seeing....not sure what plug he used but I do know that ngk platinums come already gapped....not sure this is the case with you but thought it was worth mentioning!

 

Thanks, pat. Would you know the gap offhand by any chance?

p.

 

follow this link, it shows you the gap for s60's from 01-03 as well as recommended plugs here is the link: http://www.theautopartsshop.com/auto...park-plug.html I would recommend either the super plus $3.44 each or the platinum plugs $4.72 each or you can use ngk which is the plug I currently use in my 03 s60....I do like bosch but the ngk's seem to be just as good...the gap is the same from 01-03 gap set is .028" good luck!

 

Thanks so much. I'll look into this. I even may have bought the plugs when I first posted this thread; I need to check. I'll let you know what develops.

p.