So the Subframe bushings were trash! 2007 S60 with 140K. Handling for crap, and clunking, popping, rattling noises...thanks to the forums and IPD I found that the likely culprits were subframe bushings (just inserts might have done the job), strut mount and upper spring seat. The control arm bushings were toast too. So, saved up nickles for a laborous Labor Day weekend! Decided to throw in HD swaybar link kits and tie rods while I was doing all the rest of the work, may as well hit it all!

Replacing the bushings was not as bad as I thought they were going to be. Found a great post from a guy who'd completed the job by cutting the old bushings out with a hole saw. Made sense to me, they were going in the trash anyhow. I used a 2 1/2" hole saw without the drill bit in the center to ensure I didn't jack up the threading in the frame. Making "wobbly" cuts so that it wouldn't bind, it took about 10 minutes to get the chunk out of the middle. Then a medium sized pry bar tapped under the lip and worked along the edge of the remaining bushing until it came out. Most were out in 2 minutes. One very stubborn one required channel locks along the way to provide leverage for the pry bar.

I did the removal and install one side at a time as recommended. I found this to be helpful as there was still quite a bit of movement.

Went back in with the IPD poly bushings, all lubed up. I pressed them in with the floor jack, a decent 4x4 block and race driver. The race drive (widest side to bushing) on top of the 4x4 block was almost a perfect fit for the inside diameter of the bushing. The first pass of the pressing put it mostly in. It gets a little crooked, I had to position the "press" set-up along sides that weren't seated until it was flush. In all, maybe 5 to 10 minutes a bushing.

I still used the IPD insert, probably completely unnecessary with the poly bushing, and I may regret it with the ride. It was a "recommended" part when I added the bushings to the cart...I figured I didn't want this domino of crap happening again...so what the hell. If it is too stiff, I will pull them out.

Sorry, I know this is a long post. I will throw up some pics I took yesterday if anyone is interested. I just wanted to get this out there. I searched for information about how to do this and found limited information on actually replacing the bushings. Everything I did read seemed to say it was very daunting and no one really wanted to do it.

It was not that bad. I am a 44 year old girl! Did it on my garage floor with a 2.5 ton floor jack and 4 jack stands. (well and some tools! PS - get a torque wrench and tighten to 77ft pounds per IPD) which seemed low to me but I put extra lock tight and didn't argue with the experts.

Off to the garage for control arms, ball joints, spring seats, strut mounts, tie rods and sway bar links today! Who wants to come help?

 

Great! Please post pics. I have new motor mounts on order and was thinking I should check the sub-frame bushings. 2004 S60 166K miles

 

Please post the link for the video. Most I have found are for the IPD insert install and not a bushing replacement.


Also, please confirm the bushing part numbers. They are either all the same or the left front is a firmer item.


thank you

 

Sorry so long for the response...had a family thing come up. Here are the pics.

Here are pics of removal. Will upload the new installed bushings next.

The hole saw technical is a little messy and stinks like all kinds of burning rubber, but man it was simple!

 

Here is the installed bushings and inserts.



HD Front Subframe Bushing GENUINE VOLVO 112765 8678497

Volvo IPD Poly Subframe Bushing Insert Kit 120168 3507923 3507924 8678497

Subframe O-Ring (Addresses sub-frame knocking noise) GENUINE VOLVO 115683 8638585

The o ring is only for the two rear bushing.

It's recommended to replace all of the bolts! I also went ahead and replaced these guys while I was at it...

Subframe Bushing Bracket Mount P80 P2 850 C70 S60 S70 S80 V70 XC70 GENUINE VOLVO 120144 1397492

Probably overkill, but I've lifted the car a couple times at that point so I just figured what the hell.

 

The rest of the front end work and then a little something-something for Mama! Painted calipers and stainless brake lines.

So in all, I did the:
-Subframe bushings, inserts and bolts
-Lower control arms & ball joints
-Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends
-Sway bar end links
-Upper strut spring seats
-Bump stops
-Upper strut mount bearing
(Struts are only like 6 months old - hoping I didn't tear them up driving on the front end mess I had)
-IPD Strut bar mount conversion kit
-Shocks (bilstein)
-Almost forgot...new hub bearings.

She drives better than the day I took her off the lot! Got new tires and alignment. Sticky...corners well, tight, no more clunky, clanky, soft, loose, wandering. I am in love with my car again!!

Highly recommend this work - it took a long time to run down what the popping clunking was. Seems like the subframe bushing and spring seats are troublesome.

Good luck!!

 

First, thanks to all who have posted information on the subframe bushings.

The car is a 2004 S60, 170K miles, all new motor mounts, shocks, struts and mounts. Car runs fine handles fine except at steady speed, 35 on surface streets rough areas have it drift left and right, at freeway speeds it tracks grooves.

I got the IPD poly inserts, but after seeing posts of rusted bushings got new OEM types. The bushing with the oval tube goes on the rear left, but the round also fits. I am in dry southern California, but the front gutter bushing had rusty water in it.

Cutting the old bushing out...I did not have joy with the hole saw. Too much smoke and burning rubber. The reciprocating saw worked much better, but you need to have the car up high enough to get it in. I had to cut the blade for the rear units.

I also used the saw to cut a slit in the bushing, slowly cut through the plastic outer sleeve and spitting the bushing is quick work.

Putting the new one in...I saw pictures of using a floor jack to push it in. This just lifts the car. Cleaning and lubing the frame and outside of the bushing, I used the floor jack and shock pumped it to move the bushing in. Final seating was with a dead blow hammer.

If your new bushings have a rubber over the open area, cut it out or else the insert will be very tough to get seated.


Was it worth the effort to do...YES!! The wiggle steering is gone. The car handles well with no harsh feedback.