trunk won't open with remote/release
#21
Sorry for the delayed reply - I've been traveling. Based on the diagram at the link you provided - it is the $38 wiring harness that I replaced to solve my problem. However, the fact that you haven't been getting the "TRUNK OPEN" message makes me wonder if you have the same issue I had.
Thanks again!
#22
I have a different trunk locking problem in my 2006 S60 that just started along with both rear windows not working....... not sure if at the same time or a day or so difference. Bought the car in 2009 with 80K and now have 157K on it along with several expensive mechanical problems along the way and the RF window regulator and mirror is still broken. Cant sell it as is and trade ins offer squat.
The trunk fuse panel looks nothing like whats in the owners manual but none looked blown.
There was a blown 35A fuse under the hood in position 3 which is not marked in the owners manual.
I didnt get to the panel below the steering wheel as none of the functions listed in the manual agreed with the problems.
There is no open trunk dash indicator.
The valet locking function switch does nothing; no lights or trunk area clicks.
The trunk button also doesnt result in a solenoid click. The key works fine.
The remote has been dead for a couple of years since the ex gave it a full wash cycle
Also has lighting problems, the LF marker doesnt work (bulb is good), 5 bulbs in the rear were blown and after replacing all the tailights are doing a strobe flash; other rear lights are fine.
This thing must have been designed by Lucas Electric, the Prince of Darkness Ive never seen so many fuses in any other vehicle!
Any ideas where to look?
Are there any decent shop/repair manuals(s) in case I have to start tracing wiring?
I had a 94 Taurus that only cost me one transmission rebuild by not reading the manual, the body rotted away at 330K here in NH. Normal wear and tear plus consumables and a $250 engine swap were expected repairs I did on my own......the head gasket leak was expected.
Geoff
The trunk fuse panel looks nothing like whats in the owners manual but none looked blown.
There was a blown 35A fuse under the hood in position 3 which is not marked in the owners manual.
I didnt get to the panel below the steering wheel as none of the functions listed in the manual agreed with the problems.
There is no open trunk dash indicator.
The valet locking function switch does nothing; no lights or trunk area clicks.
The trunk button also doesnt result in a solenoid click. The key works fine.
The remote has been dead for a couple of years since the ex gave it a full wash cycle
Also has lighting problems, the LF marker doesnt work (bulb is good), 5 bulbs in the rear were blown and after replacing all the tailights are doing a strobe flash; other rear lights are fine.
This thing must have been designed by Lucas Electric, the Prince of Darkness Ive never seen so many fuses in any other vehicle!
Any ideas where to look?
Are there any decent shop/repair manuals(s) in case I have to start tracing wiring?
I had a 94 Taurus that only cost me one transmission rebuild by not reading the manual, the body rotted away at 330K here in NH. Normal wear and tear plus consumables and a $250 engine swap were expected repairs I did on my own......the head gasket leak was expected.
Geoff
#23
Sounds like maybe a Relay to me. I am not a electrical mechanic. But it seems odd that so many things would go out at once. I doubt it would components like a wiring harness given your description.
I am not 100% sure how to check the relays. But if nothing else, you can buy a test light from wal-mart of like $8, just make sure you ground it to metal and can at-least touch both sides of every fuse and see if they light up. If you get a cluster that doesn't light it that could be the relay.
Sorry, I wish I was more knowledgeable. I only have a Saturday beer drinking course about auto electronics given to me by a friend.
I am not 100% sure how to check the relays. But if nothing else, you can buy a test light from wal-mart of like $8, just make sure you ground it to metal and can at-least touch both sides of every fuse and see if they light up. If you get a cluster that doesn't light it that could be the relay.
Sorry, I wish I was more knowledgeable. I only have a Saturday beer drinking course about auto electronics given to me by a friend.
I have a different trunk locking problem in my 2006 S60 that just started along with both rear windows not working....... not sure if at the same time or a day or so difference. Bought the car in 2009 with 80K and now have 157K on it along with several expensive mechanical problems along the way and the RF window regulator and mirror is still broken. Cant sell it as is and trade ins offer squat.
The trunk fuse panel looks nothing like whats in the owners manual but none looked blown.
There was a blown 35A fuse under the hood in position 3 which is not marked in the owners manual.
I didnt get to the panel below the steering wheel as none of the functions listed in the manual agreed with the problems.
There is no open trunk dash indicator.
The valet locking function switch does nothing; no lights or trunk area clicks.
The trunk button also doesnt result in a solenoid click. The key works fine.
The remote has been dead for a couple of years since the ex gave it a full wash cycle
Also has lighting problems, the LF marker doesnt work (bulb is good), 5 bulbs in the rear were blown and after replacing all the tailights are doing a strobe flash; other rear lights are fine.
This thing must have been designed by Lucas Electric, the Prince of Darkness Ive never seen so many fuses in any other vehicle!
Any ideas where to look?
Are there any decent shop/repair manuals(s) in case I have to start tracing wiring?
I had a 94 Taurus that only cost me one transmission rebuild by not reading the manual, the body rotted away at 330K here in NH. Normal wear and tear plus consumables and a $250 engine swap were expected repairs I did on my own......the head gasket leak was expected.
Geoff
The trunk fuse panel looks nothing like whats in the owners manual but none looked blown.
There was a blown 35A fuse under the hood in position 3 which is not marked in the owners manual.
I didnt get to the panel below the steering wheel as none of the functions listed in the manual agreed with the problems.
There is no open trunk dash indicator.
The valet locking function switch does nothing; no lights or trunk area clicks.
The trunk button also doesnt result in a solenoid click. The key works fine.
The remote has been dead for a couple of years since the ex gave it a full wash cycle
Also has lighting problems, the LF marker doesnt work (bulb is good), 5 bulbs in the rear were blown and after replacing all the tailights are doing a strobe flash; other rear lights are fine.
This thing must have been designed by Lucas Electric, the Prince of Darkness Ive never seen so many fuses in any other vehicle!
Any ideas where to look?
Are there any decent shop/repair manuals(s) in case I have to start tracing wiring?
I had a 94 Taurus that only cost me one transmission rebuild by not reading the manual, the body rotted away at 330K here in NH. Normal wear and tear plus consumables and a $250 engine swap were expected repairs I did on my own......the head gasket leak was expected.
Geoff
#24
New used Volvo owner with question...
Hello, I have 2007 Volvo s40. A couple of weeks ago my trunk stopped opening. I am able to climb inside the trunk and open the boot with the emergency release. I had dismantled the trunk lid inside cover and removed the lock actuator. In the process of inspecting the actuator I ended up breaking it so I replaced it with an OEM brand new one. The trunk still does not release with the key or when I unlock the car and use the latch above the licence plate. I do hear a whine noise when I use the latch but nothing happens. I am wondering what else it could be before I spend more money trying to fix the problem. Any help is greatly appreciated...I apologize if this issue was answered somewhere else on here.
#25
I cannot open the trunk with the key(something is wrong with getting the key in. Seems like a faulty key hole) Valet lock is off. Problem became apparent after I slammed the trunk. (2005 s60)
Can I take out the bottom seat cushion and access the manual release ? Can I remove the oval black trunk release above license plate and open it?
Thanks
Can I take out the bottom seat cushion and access the manual release ? Can I remove the oval black trunk release above license plate and open it?
Thanks
#26
dbier / stop_at_willoughby -- I seem to have the same issue as you. I just got a 2006 S80 two months ago and, as of this weekend, the trunk lid button only works when the trunk is wide open.
Is the wire harness that you replaced the one that leads all the way from the left tail light to the trunk actuator? The wire I found is probably ~6' long and has two connections under the trunk lid -- one to the trunk lid button and one to the actuator.
The wire I found is labeled part number 8697922. Does that seem right? And is it hard to install for a mechanically challenged person like me?? It seems to have a few rubber gaskets to get into the tail light area and the trunk lid area. Do these come with the new wire? It also connects to the trunk hinge and I didn't see an easy way to disconnect / reconnect it from this?
Any ideas where the short might be? Seems weird that these wires would fail only when the trunk is open. Someone hit my bumper a few weeks ago -- I'm wondering if that might have caused the issue, though it still worked for a few weeks after that.
Thanks!!
Is the wire harness that you replaced the one that leads all the way from the left tail light to the trunk actuator? The wire I found is probably ~6' long and has two connections under the trunk lid -- one to the trunk lid button and one to the actuator.
The wire I found is labeled part number 8697922. Does that seem right? And is it hard to install for a mechanically challenged person like me?? It seems to have a few rubber gaskets to get into the tail light area and the trunk lid area. Do these come with the new wire? It also connects to the trunk hinge and I didn't see an easy way to disconnect / reconnect it from this?
Any ideas where the short might be? Seems weird that these wires would fail only when the trunk is open. Someone hit my bumper a few weeks ago -- I'm wondering if that might have caused the issue, though it still worked for a few weeks after that.
Thanks!!
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