Hello everyone, my first post here.

I know that there are many threads regarding this problem and I have read many, but every situation is unique.

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It all began when I started noticing vibration when selecting R and D. P and N weren't very smooth also, but those two...

I don't know if it was vibrating when I bought that car or I wasn't paying too much attention. (bought used one)

Few weeks ago I decided to check both lower engine mounts (vacuum (?) ones) to see whether or not they are leaking. Front one seemed to hold, but the rear one was leaking, so I changed that one.

At first it seemed that it became worse, so I decided to check for leakage once more and it was leaking! I thought "what the hell? it is new!" and then checked the old one again to see if it's leaking connecting the meter directly to the mount and the old one was good. At that moment I started regreting changing it, but after a day or so, selecting D caused no vibration at all. So I guess it needed the change if it eliminated vibration and that the leakage is through the pipe or something.

Since I had the vibration when selecting R left (was really rough), after a week I changed the lower front engine mount. It made it less rough, but the vibration was still there AND the vibration when selecting D came back. That made me really mad, because I thought that it would help R more than it did, but it also messed up D. Why and how did it mess it up?

I was told that the right engine mount (near the wheel) is good and the upper (torque ?) one wouldn't cause those vibrations. I know that there is one more lower mount that is connected to the transmission, if I'm not mistaken, but I haven't checked that one. Could it be?

Does anyone have any idea what should I check or look for? I don't want to keep replacing parts just to see if it helps...

 

what did you find out? Was it he upper motor mounts.

 

I don't know if I'm allowed to post links to other forum, because I have a thread there with all my progress towards resolving this issue.

Long story short:
All 5 mounts are changed now and the result is... I don't know. Idle vibration is random, selecting R it still kinda vibrates and D is good, at least for now. And if car vibrates at idle, it will vibrate in gear also (seems so). When it vibrates at idle, I can barely touch gas pedal (revs move for like 1 mm) to make it smooth. Let it go and it vibrates.

I'll be checking my glow plugs and perhaps injectors once more (the previous time I had to change 3 injectors and 1 of those died after a month... so who knows, maybe something's not right again). I have a rough start up for like 5s and then it gets smoother. It can be clearly felt on cold start ups. Maybe one injector gets stuck and causes those vibrations. I don't know...

Dealer couldn't find what's wrong. All they said - "we don't like the sound of engine".

So, if I'll manage to sort it out - I'll let you know.

 

Not really sure about the Diesel versions. Honestly I didn't know what D5 meant until you said Glow Plugs. This version of s60 does not exist in the States.

Having a similar year s60 and having replace all the mounts myself if you substitute rubber bushings for polyurethane which I saw some rattling when idle myself. For the top engine mount I loosened the bolts on the bar because I had them a bit tight and there is suppose to be a bit of give. I think its call the stabilizer bar can't remember but its what the top engine mount connects to.

The only other possibility if you did not have done is the sub frame bushings. Usually when these go if you come to a stop you will feel the car jerk forward a bit before settling down. This is because the engine is shifting. Depending on the mileage of the car if it is the equivalent of 130,000 to 150,000 miles it could be those going. I was able to but sub-frame polyurethane fillers from IPD USA. When I installed those about a year ago it made a huge difference in my front suspension.

 

Thanks for the input.

Both (top and lower) mounts have rubber bushings.

I think my source of vibration might be caused by an injector, because roughness can be felt mostly when the engine is cold. Once it fully warms up it becomes better. I also tried playing with revs and noticed one thing: when I rev it to something in between 750-800 a deep knocking appears which can be heard and felt in the car.