Let me start out by saying this site rocks, helps me a lot. And it really helps being a woman and being able to read about the problems before going to a mechanic.

I did do a search and read a lot of posts where the key was stuck in the ignition. Well, mine is that it won't let my key in the ignition. It has literally locked the key out of the ignition, won't budge. Here's the thing, how the hell do you tow a car that is locked and can not be pulled out of park...

I've never even heard of this happening before, any advice would be helpful. My car is a 98 S70 Volvo.

 

Try spraying a little WD-40 or something like that where the key goes in. Let it sit for a few then get a small screwdriver and CAREFULLY try to slide it in. You might be able to work the flap that is locking the key from going in. Then if you get it freed up the key might work normally.

 

Well nevermind...

I've dealt with it.

 

Oh ok

 

Oh hell, the forums must be running slow. I didn't see that reply before I posted that I'd dealt with it. It was really locked though, we didn't try the WD-40 thing, but we did try to use a flat head screwdriver to get it open. Believe me, it was as tight as a nuns legs.

We'll see, I had it towed to a garage nearby. Thanks for the reply Tech!

 

No problem hope things go well.

 

Well, I need someone that knows what they are talking about. I've talked to the shop where the car is, I've talked to 2 different volvo dealers. I wanted to verify what the garage told me and the volvo dealers unfortunately were no help.

The garage where my car is told me that it is indeed the ignition cylinder. When I first talked to him before the car was towed, I asked how much to replace the ignition cylinder, I was told a little under 500. After he looked at the car the price went up to $660, and I was told that it was really bad, and the assembly would need to be replaced as well (electronic components behind the cylinder). He says because it is so bad the drilling will cause the assembly to be replaced as well.

I just need to know, does this sound right? I've heard of everyone drilling out the cylinder without talk of the assembly (or electronics) behind the cylinder.

I would appreciate any knowledge, I've been talking on the phone for ages it seems just trying to get a straight forward answer and it's gotten me no where.

Thanks!

Edit: forgot to mention the mechanic did try to put some lube on the ignition to loosen it up (left for an hour) and nothing.

 

What year is it?
If it is a 1998 then you should be able to buy one local from a dealer with a different key and use that.

If it is a 99 then you will need to order it coded which might take 2 weeks to get it.
If you are pretty handy with tools we can walk you through replacing it.

 

Yeah it's a 98. I've replaced a few things in a car, but I've never drilled metal before. It sounds to me like you have to actually drill the metal to get it out.

It's pretty much coming down to this. I love my car, but there is a good amount wrong with it. I was preapproved for a loan today if I do decide to buy another car. However, if I can fix it myself and save around $700 I would definitely fix the other smaller things on the car and live with some of the things that have went wrong with it. I dunno, but I'm going to have to figure it out!

 

Ok if you want the help let me know. You might not have to drill anything.
There is screws that the head breaks off when they install the entire assembly you can use a center punch and a hammer or a chisel and a hammer and get the screws out.

 

Thanks tech, you are awesome for offering the help.

Well, to be quite honest it sounds like that mechanic either doesn't know what he's talking about, or he's trying to tell me a load of bull. I have been researching this and found these instructions:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/ignition_S80.html

Now I know what the the part looks like and what actually needs drilled, I didn't have a visual before. Hopefully that link might help others understand more what needs done. I'm not sure if linking another site is OK with the forums, if not just delete this reply.

We'll see what happens tomorrow!

 

The link is fine.

I usually never drill them out I only use a hammer and center punch and unscrew it.

I bet he didn't know what he was doing.

 

Yeah, I just talked to him today. He told me that the Column Lock (piece on the bottom which is where the key goes) will have to be drilled as well as the break off screws (or whatever they are called) because they can not get the key in and release it. I do not see how the Column Lock being locked would stop you from getting the parts off, steering wheel etc, and then breaking off the bracket holding the column lock on. Can you think of any reason the Column lock would need drilled since we can't get the key in?

 

I can tell you 100% sure it does not need to be drilled out. Only the break off screws need to be.
I have done it atleast 50 or more times and only those 2 screws need to come out.

Nothing else needs to come out.
Yes the lock button is part of the lower assembly. But as soon as those 2 screws are removed the entire bottom section will fall off. The lock button has nothing to do with it coming off.

 

See what is this guy talking about! Thanks tech, it's good to have backup on this!

 

LOL I wish I had a good picture to send but I don't.

 

Well Bager, I have that same exact problem - I fixed it today.
Step One, Dont Panic ( unless its your daily driver)
My fix took about fifteen minutes to do, but the experience of disassembly atthe Junkyard so it made it a little easier.
The electronic part may be at fault. If it is its easy.
98 silver t5