The steering column / ignition lock has locked up and I can't turn the key. Wheels are straight ahead but can't unlock the ignition lock. Any ideas as to what is going on and how to fix it? Can I take the lock out and replace it? Any help appreciated.

 

Which model/yearcar is it?

 

1988, 760 turbo. Spent all day trying to get the lock apart. The lock is apparently the problem. Can't turn the key to position 1 to take the steering wheel lock out. My question now is, if I drill out the lock, can I still start the car using just the starter switch that was on the opposite end of the lock? Does the lock do anything other than lock the steering column?

 

OK here is the story on that car.(Just did one a couple of weeks ago)
Spent about 2.5 Hours trying to drill out and remove the old lock cylinder. It was a PITA.
But as long as you are Very careful it can be done.
We were very Careful because we had to install a new cylinder.
Yes the electrical part will start the car.

BUT If you remove the lock cylinder and leave it out the steering wheel will stay locked!!

 

Ok, how do I go about drilling out the old lock cylinder? A bigger question is where do I find a new cylinder? I have searched the net and all I can find is a whole new assembly at $178 bucks.

I can't move the key to position 1 so I assume I have to drill. Do I drill down through the hole where the key enters?I imagine this will destory everything. Or, do I try to figure out where the release pin is while the key isat the 0 mark? I assmume the whole mechanism rotates to the forward 1 position so the pin would be back toward the driver the same amount of distance the key might travel from the hole? (I'm not sure that even made sense to me.) There is a small pin hole with a pin that I am supposed to depress to release the cylinder. would I measure back or forward from that hole to make my drill hole?
Any clues would be a great help. Also the name of the supplier where you got your cylinder would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dwight

 

We got the lock cylinder from the Dealer.
We got one that was Not keyed to the car.(Dealer had one in stock) If you want one to match the key now you will have to wait about 1 week to get it.

You start drilling in the center. Only go back about 2 inches. Then you have to keep working bigger and bigger.

Then start using a chisel and breaking parts out. Do that till you get towards the edge. The release button actually goes to a little arm that wraps around the back of the cylinder for the release.

You need to take your time and work very carefully. If you mess something up you are SCREWED. You can't just buy the lock assembly for the 760. The 760 Has tilt steering. You would have to buy an entire steering column and install if you break something.

Also there is a piece on the back of the cylinder that needs to go on the new one.

 

Managed to drill out the tumbler without damaging the cylinder and attached mechanism that unlocks the steering wheel. Right now have it back together so I can start and drive the car without the locking mechanism, but I need to replace that. Problem is, I can't find anybody on the Internet that sells the part. Any suggestions as to where I can find just the lock cylinder and key would be appreciated.

 

Like I said above I believe only the Dealer is where you can get it from.
The prices really aren't that bad. I think it is less than $100.00 for it.

 

Thanks for all of your help.
To anyone else who faces this same problem, drill carefully! I first carefully cut off the safety plate that covers the face of the lock with the 3 position marks for the key. This was easy with a fine cutting wheel on my die grinder. Could be done with a dremmel. The metal is very thin and cuts off easily. I next removed thesnap ring that holds in the "key slot". This is the round piece about the size of a dime that has the key hole in it. Once that is out, the tumbler is exposed. Since it could not be turned to the #1 position with a key, I had to drill. Drill down the center carefully. I drilled only about 1/2 inch at a time so I could see what I was destroying. Stop drilling before you get to the end of the cylinder where the tip of the key rests when fully inserted. You will want this part later. Use a small pick or fine crochet hook (my wife will never miss it) to dig out the broken lock parts. Along the top edge of the cylinder you will see a pin imbedded into the cylinder. The only way to get it out is grind it out. I used a fine high speed burr to cut the cylinder material away from this pin. Once I was able to get this pin out, the cylinder spring could be depressed through the tiny hole in the top of the steering column. This allowed me to slide the cylinder housing out of the steering column. Behind the cylinder housing is a springand plunger unit that goes through the column and turns the switch.It also holds down a lever which locksand unlocks the steering wheel. Carefully draw this plunger out and look down the hole. You will see a small lever sticking out. By pressing the lever down, you unlock the steering wheel.
Once I had the mess apart, I lubricated the spring loaded plunger that turns the switch and reinstalled it. I cut off the damaged tumbler end of the lock cylinder, where the lock pins had been, and kept the large end that turns the plunger. I placed this back into the lock cylinder housing and put it back in place, making sure the cylinder housing spring locked securely. Now I could turn on the car with the key or a screw driver, minus the locking parts. Then I put the "key hole" part back andlocked it in place with thesnap ring. It now looks like a real ignition lock and can be turned on with a key. I recognize it is not secure because any key long enough can start the car, but it will do until I can buy a new part.
By the way, I did find the part of the Internet for $72.00.

 

Glad you found one online.

Thanks for the write-up.