I have 2001 Volvo s80 t6 looking add power just not sure what way go with it yet looking see any good tips and what not to start with? Thank you going be my 1st post so go slow now..

 

I plain on doing a ipd ecu flash that being 1st

 

with the t6 fwd you should have more than enough power.... enough to get you in trouble and burn up plenty of tires.... I would do a tune up... check the turbos and especially the waist gates and do all maintenance that you can you will likely find many factors leading to power loss especially on these cars

 

If you are at 100% you could do the ecu upgrade.... high flow cats and a cat back of your choice

 

ok thats something ill look in to im going replace all coils and maybe even both turbos the driver side one makes lot of clicking sounds not to sure what thats about seems to have boot problems also.
started last night

 

Actually on the turbos you can get a rebuild kit or any parts you need from xsboost turbochargers.com they are well priced and one of the best places I've done business with for turbo issues... rebuilding those turbos will run around 140 bucks.... replacement will run you over 2 grand.... Its not hard to rebuild them yourself either.... from my experience the clicking or a ringing is the compressor wheel hitting the housing.... inspect and be ready to replace the wheel if its banged up... mine were not..... when pulling the turbos mind the oil lines and buy all the new seals... these turbos also use a specific copper washer for the turbo cooling... aka coolant lines running through the turbos... now as to how to pull the turbo.... you can pull it out the top but it is a pain.... you may be best off dropping the cats and the passenger side cv half shaft to gain access and also pulling the entire exhaust manifold may be easyer than what I did in just pulling the center and compressor side.... you will probably want help.... btw you will have a coolant mess so also be ready with a drain pan behind by the turbos.... do not screw arround with old gaskets.... I cant say it enough.... check your waistgates while you are down there and make sure they are still conected to the exhaust portion... you will want to replace the pins and all the crumpling lines.... once its back together use an air compressor to pressurize the intake to test for leaks.... thats a biggie in power loss.... check and clean your etm map maf and temp sensors along with the boost pressure actuator.... k&n cone air filter is nice to get some turbo noise but you will need to fabricate a bracket.... as I have been unable to locate a aftermarket system.... If a coil is bad you will know because it will misfire and code to that specific cylinder... but I would consider injectors because those can turn into squirt guns instead of an atomizer.... be ready to replace those o rings too... also if you have not already replace your pcv system water pump timing belt thermostat cheap L connection that will break and of course all of the other timing belt related components and serp belt.... change your trans fluid and filter... new plugs and any and all engine mounts you come across because those go constaintly too... expect the 4 o2 sensors and the cats to go in the future especially if the turbos blow too much oil by after that thats everything Ive run across that will be a problem under the hood

 

thats not to bad i got do pvc and mounts thinking go with ipd strut mount solid and poly bushing for uper engine mount.
I under stand ill get more feed back but thats fine also all belts and what not are new and my miss is random some times car will run good then at red light rpm will just drop to like 500 then back to the 700s again? was told it maybe ummm brain fart but the etm i think need be cleaned

 

the solid mounts are definitely a good investment... I bought them myself but I personaly would get the economy mounts as the ones that say ipd are almost exactly the same except they say ipd... save yourself some money.... for the rpm issue I would definitely clean the etm and the connection... usually the conection can be the issue so be very careful with that plug because it will practically fall apart... if you go into full etm failure limp mode its usually crap in the plug... you will get a random misfire on all cylinders and you will get two engine messages... something like service engine system urgent and reduced engine performance... I cant give you a definite answer on the rpm issue as it could be a dozen things and ive seen almost all of them... I had to start from zero with my s80 cause it was beat... looked really nice but was not taken care of at all... I have about 6k in repairs into it and Its finally coming around...

 

also do yourself a big favor do a once over on all suspension components... especially if anything is clunking... also pull off the rear discs to take a look at the ebrake... if it looks iffy replace it... mine randomly caught and sheered off the cable and a piece of the hub... in my church parking lot of all places

 

yeah im going do all coils think they are the 1 set with 150k on them and all mounts new brakes and clean of the etm and intake with rebuild for turbos see where i sit from there i have a srs light on i think going get the software for volvo with cable do that my self

 

Im looking to pick up the icarsoft906i volvo saab scanner... Ive been told its the best for the price... let me know what your srs light code comes up as... and Im at 142k with 5 of the original coils... ive been going through advanced auto parts with the carquest coils and doing them as they go.. the carquest ones have a lifetime warranty and they are about the same price as online plus I have instaint access....

 

my one set off by new battery put in so think its just how it was put in bugged it out "Volvo makes some $$ reset it to" needless to say nothing bad.

was looking at Vdiag Dice Vida Volvo Vida Dice Diagnostic Tool 2014D Newest Version | eBay plugs in to laptop and change all kinda stuff able look at 02 and all that good stuff

 

Ive been told its very confusing hard to use and has some bugs being that its not part of the $1000 equipment that they use in service but if you are set on that one you will have to let me know how it works

 

will do met guy at car show who use it and he said its just right to turn off stuff and reset far as re mapping stuff he say no but for easy stuff its got it down.
for 150$ if i can reset that light it pays for its self since Volvo wants 150$ just tell me why its on