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2000 S80 - Dead instrumentation panel, no heat, all warning lights etc

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2000 S80 - Dead instrumentation panel, no heat, all warning lights etc

  #1  
Old 12-17-2012, 11:48 AM
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Location: Massachusetts
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Exclamation 2000 S80 - Dead instrumentation panel, no heat, all warning lights etc

2000 S80 w/200K - I recently had all my instrumentation panel die on me along with all warning lights, airbag and brake failure messages come on (and warning lamp). The car has been a great car with many of the traditional bulb failures etc...nothing major. This occurred and the mechanic stated that the electrical module needed to be cleaned. It worked for 3 - 4 days then just occurred again this morning. I will say that it is raining today and thinking that the first time it failed it was also raining. In both cases I was able to get the car home however, when I shut it off, it appears dead. Press on the brake, turn key a few times and I can get it to start however, idles rough and barely can keep it running...again all failure modes in play as well. Well, they (Dealer) are now replacing some kind of electronic module for ~$1200. Are they heading down the right path this time? I called my mechanic who takes care of the small stuff and he mentioned the alternator so I'm having them check that as well. I need to push this to 250K before replacing...so...any help and guidance....greatly appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 05-06-2013, 04:38 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 26
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Maybe a little late but if you disconnect your positive battery terminal for a few minutes and reconnect, it may reset everything back to "normal". I have had to do this with my car a few times with the same issue you have. The problem is there is a chip in your dash panel that runs most of the dash functions much like a CPU on a computer. Over time it might become lose and or the heat past under the chip stops working properly (i.e. it doesn't dissipate heat properly). The chip overheats quickly and shuts down to protect itself. There is a thread somewhere on the S60 forum on how to try and repair this. Many have had success doing it. Others send it off to a company that repairs it for them. Volvo will charge you a few newborn to replace it.
 
  #3  
Old 05-23-2013, 09:32 PM
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 85
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read my post
 
  #4  
Old 05-23-2013, 09:35 PM
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 85
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ignition switch= to date May 22 2013 last repair

had abs lights go off stc lights pull over asap lights, Alarm servive required /!\
battery light
every thing was fine nothing rong with the controls just lights galore and lots of panic.
...went home next day drove over 2
hours nothing no lights....alright it was just a falt no worries...sometimes the t6 wouldent
start after five days of sitting .............it cant be the new alt or
the brand new battery i tested both, this happened 5 times or so. One time only once
on a start up the lights would come up same as before when driving ABS,STC,BRA FAILER msg ex.

but this time the immobilizer see manual msg came up i thought that might have something
to due with the alarm service msg indicating a falt in the system car would
not start..again everybody no falts no codes stored and yes my shop agin tryed to pull
any codes through his bad **** obd reader\abs reader....nothing ...wooooooow
.Alright ima jump soon....wink.gif

so i would disconnect the negative battery lead , clear lights on dash start up no falts
no lights no malfunction indicators nothing.....

few days later driving
down town instrument cluster shuts off NO SPEDOM NO RPM NO TEMP..but gas gage still fine..
drove to meeting shut car off. Hour later started right up drove home nothing no lights
no malfunctions .Went on a beer run lights cam on drove it right to my shop no falts
no codes stored no nothing just lights every where.... i thought there is no way they
all failed its just mathimaticaly impossible...................i was right in end
p.s prior to all these lights going off i had alarm service msg with a
yellow caution indicator /!\ on start up about a month before my new panic board lights
entered into my life

so i started the dreaded ABS light venture on the internet after i already spent many many
days on switches, small relay wires, CAN net and OMG what a nightmare...some of those poor
people have suffered from so many stealerships horrors..fixes with no guarantees bills
of well over a thousand dollars for new ABS modules, people pulling things off by them
selfs hopeing the light goes off after hundreds wow....you half to be clear average minded
to concer this car without frustrating your self to death. a way of acting that this is
a puzzle you and me can du and i love it..

so i cleaned the battery leads with a simular story on the internet before i f-ing let loose
with a sludghammer
what do you no......... no light for about 23 days then on a friday ran a bunch of arrands
and planned 2 again see family in Hamilton Ontario 56 there and bac Sat morning
went out she was done no start WAS NOT going any where...i had alternator problems before
and when she had trouble starting i could clearly smell gas tryed it only 3 times
no gas smell this time witch ruled out my new referb alt failing , went and tested battery
with multy meter 12.85 volts she powered all right
and figured something wasint right..so i sat there boiling mad SERIOUSLY..calmed down and
started a new puzzle adventure with great fear of the ABS lights...

well here we go ....if no gas being pumped than its the fuel pump but my gas gage was fine
even with the cluster failer ??? gas was good then so but no smell it must be injectors
not injection ....witch hit me on an instant the immobilizer..... It preventing gas witch
is y no smell again the immobilizer controls fuel injection in the cyclenders.
hence pointed me again to alarm...so my final question witch came to my conclusion of a
45$ part and fix was what controls the immobilizer and the alarm ????

THIS IS THE TRUTH THE IGNITION SWITCH -------controls alarm, immobilizer and a few other
switichs,The ignition colm has a small metal rectangle shape with a circle in middle that fits into
a cheep plastic ignition switch insert, that the metal chewed up the plastic so when u turn ignition colm it didnt spiral away from immobilizer and alarm connection inside the ignition switch fully causing the (Central Control Unit) to act abnormal.BANG sending false codes and falts every where.

YOU BELIEVE THIS CRAP plastic to metal contact on a daily basis totaly not happy SERIOUSLY a small plastic peace beaing worn down with hard cast metal every day. and my ABS fails because of this.
Multipal people have had hundreds of these exact problems and i bet a few
hundred s80's may be in the grave yard because of this but i will continue to
drive it with great passion if i can help in any way let me no.....

because i did countless hours of research prior to my (Ignition Switch) problem
it was much easier to come to this final conclusion with all of it I MEAN ALL OF IT..
150+ HOURS spent on car

CAR OUT FOR 4 DAYS...CONCLUSION------------- Ignition Switch 45$

Toronto Canada s80 t6 2000 .....196000 and counting polar arctic matalic tinted
 
  #5  
Old 05-24-2013, 10:32 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 26
Default

Originally Posted by torontos80t62000 View Post
ignition switch= to date May 22 2013 last repair

had abs lights go off stc lights pull over asap lights, Alarm servive required /!\
battery light
every thing was fine nothing rong with the controls just lights galore and lots of panic.
...went home next day drove over 2
hours nothing no lights....alright it was just a falt no worries...sometimes the t6 wouldent
start after five days of sitting .............it cant be the new alt or
the brand new battery i tested both, this happened 5 times or so. One time only once
on a start up the lights would come up same as before when driving ABS,STC,BRA FAILER msg ex.

but this time the immobilizer see manual msg came up i thought that might have something
to due with the alarm service msg indicating a falt in the system car would
not start..again everybody no falts no codes stored and yes my shop agin tryed to pull
any codes through his bad **** obd reader\abs reader....nothing ...wooooooow
.Alright ima jump soon....wink.gif

so i would disconnect the negative battery lead , clear lights on dash start up no falts
no lights no malfunction indicators nothing.....

few days later driving
down town instrument cluster shuts off NO SPEDOM NO RPM NO TEMP..but gas gage still fine..
drove to meeting shut car off. Hour later started right up drove home nothing no lights
no malfunctions .Went on a beer run lights cam on drove it right to my shop no falts
no codes stored no nothing just lights every where.... i thought there is no way they
all failed its just mathimaticaly impossible...................i was right in end
p.s prior to all these lights going off i had alarm service msg with a
yellow caution indicator /!\ on start up about a month before my new panic board lights
entered into my life

so i started the dreaded ABS light venture on the internet after i already spent many many
days on switches, small relay wires, CAN net and OMG what a nightmare...some of those poor
people have suffered from so many stealerships horrors..fixes with no guarantees bills
of well over a thousand dollars for new ABS modules, people pulling things off by them
selfs hopeing the light goes off after hundreds wow....you half to be clear average minded
to concer this car without frustrating your self to death. a way of acting that this is
a puzzle you and me can du and i love it..

so i cleaned the battery leads with a simular story on the internet before i f-ing let loose
with a sludghammer
what do you no......... no light for about 23 days then on a friday ran a bunch of arrands
and planned 2 again see family in Hamilton Ontario 56 there and bac Sat morning
went out she was done no start WAS NOT going any where...i had alternator problems before
and when she had trouble starting i could clearly smell gas tryed it only 3 times
no gas smell this time witch ruled out my new referb alt failing , went and tested battery
with multy meter 12.85 volts she powered all right
and figured something wasint right..so i sat there boiling mad SERIOUSLY..calmed down and
started a new puzzle adventure with great fear of the ABS lights...

well here we go ....if no gas being pumped than its the fuel pump but my gas gage was fine
even with the cluster failer ??? gas was good then so but no smell it must be injectors
not injection ....witch hit me on an instant the immobilizer..... It preventing gas witch
is y no smell again the immobilizer controls fuel injection in the cyclenders.
hence pointed me again to alarm...so my final question witch came to my conclusion of a
45$ part and fix was what controls the immobilizer and the alarm ????

THIS IS THE TRUTH THE IGNITION SWITCH -------controls alarm, immobilizer and a few other
switichs,The ignition colm has a small metal rectangle shape with a circle in middle that fits into
a cheep plastic ignition switch insert, that the metal chewed up the plastic so when u turn ignition colm it didnt spiral away from immobilizer and alarm connection inside the ignition switch fully causing the (Central Control Unit) to act abnormal.BANG sending false codes and falts every where.

YOU BELIEVE THIS CRAP plastic to metal contact on a daily basis totaly not happy SERIOUSLY a small plastic peace beaing worn down with hard cast metal every day. and my ABS fails because of this.
Multipal people have had hundreds of these exact problems and i bet a few
hundred s80's may be in the grave yard because of this but i will continue to
drive it with great passion if i can help in any way let me no.....

because i did countless hours of research prior to my (Ignition Switch) problem
it was much easier to come to this final conclusion with all of it I MEAN ALL OF IT..
150+ HOURS spent on car

CAR OUT FOR 4 DAYS...CONCLUSION------------- Ignition Switch 45$

Toronto Canada s80 t6 2000 .....196000 and counting polar arctic matalic tinted
Dude, if this is the answer than I will buy some Molson Beer to salute you and help your economy.

I have spent the last 2 years disconnecting and reconnecting my battery terminal in order to reset this $%^$%& problem since there was no way I was going to take the chance of trying the other fixes I was told and because my 99 S80 has DSTC. Already spent $600 at the dealer who supposedly cleaned all the electrical connectors inside the dash. Yeah, right.

Many said it was the ABS module. The cost of a new DSTC ABS module (can't be repaired) was a non starter (already did this about 50,000 miles ago) on a 15 year old car with 200,000 + miles. No way I was going to buy a used one since they are notorious for failing and was probably already bad.

Some said it was the chip on the instrument panel. Figured the fix would be too risky and if I screwed up I would have to scrap the car or spend big dollars on a used one. Nope, not sinking any big money into this car.

Once told it was a cracked drive shaft which was sending erroneous info to the ABS module. Kinda had a hard time believing that one.

So how hard is it to replace this thing and are they readily available online or do I have to(gasp) go to the Money Sucking Pit of Death call the Dealership? I will certainly take a chance on a $45 fix.

I drive this car to and from work where I have to park it and every few months I have another ding from some douche who doesn't know how to open and close a door. Only reason I still have it. Its a nice car but I won't sink close to $1000 on it to have the dealership hose me again.
 

Last edited by hughrhodes; 05-24-2013 at 10:39 AM.
  #6  
Old 05-24-2013, 10:45 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 26
Default

BTW, my kids nicknamed my car Donny. My oldest son, after yet again all the warning lights went on and the Tac, Speedo and temp went to zero (which could only happen if the car got struck by a meteor) said, "This car is as stupid as Napolean Dynamite's older brother Donny." We laughed and the name stuck.
 
  #7  
Old 05-24-2013, 12:39 PM
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 85
Default

the ignition switch is on the left inside of steering colm very easy to pull. Unscrew the top and bottom plastic steering colm covers (four screws)YOU should see a plum size black round SWITCH with two screws holding it in place on left side. The power source has removable clip . unscrew 2 bolts pull clip out your done ...now replace with new switch should be faster since you are aware where everything goes ...i bought it at a special volvo shop in Toronto ps if you can locate the part(VERY IMPORTANT)!!!!!!!make sure you get the two screws that come with the new unit very very important...The new OEM ignition switch from volvo was improved it has a thicker screw spacers and longer screws so the old ones wont fit...this part was improved buy volvo so ima cross my fingers for you bud..............youtube has a step by step video that i used il post the name in a few

I feel the same way 600$ and nothing...wow.....will not opp for a big fix either buddy........just thinking the hours we could spend talking about her with a case of beer ..but....since you have the exact same problem just maybe just maybe my info could help..(Conclution---any small little tiny problem will send the CEM to go crazy with all kinds of cluster lights .....it took 8 minutes to pull the switch and replace it ..so in the end if i can help in any way my-man im here!!!FIRST I WOULD TRY THE IGNITION SWITCH .........if that dosent work pull the ABS unit, and re-solder connection inside, youtube has a few s80 ABS videos on solder points inside the unit....i know it might sound like a lot but just imagine if we fixed it you would feel like a million buks...again im here!

Toronto Canada s80 t6 2000 196,000 and counting polar arctic matalic tinted
 

Last edited by torontos80t62000; 06-18-2013 at 09:39 PM.

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