Crunching Noise from 1999 S80 T6
First off I apologize for how long this post will be but I want you to know everything that has led up to this point.
I was driving to my wedding rehearsal back in April and my car just died on Airport Way in Portland, OR. After checking my battery connections, fuses, oil levels, and fuel levels, I still couldn't get the car to start back up. Eventually after disconnecting the battery I could get the motor to run for about 30 seconds and then it would start running really rough as if it were low on fuel and then just die. It acted like the engine was going to jump out. Shook violently and then was down for the count.
Thankfully we were about 5 minutes past iPd so AAA was kind enough to tow us there but there was one problem, it was a Saturday and past their hours. We get there and thankfully there is a lady in their office catching up because she was ill earlier. Needless to say they accepted the car and we were off to the rehearsal.
On Monday I get a call from iPd about all that they have tried to diagnose the car. They started with a battery but the results were the same. Then they hooked up a continuous power source and voila! she ran. So $500 later I have a new alternator and a get away car for the wedding. Before I left though they told me that there was a grinding noise that they sourced to the Serpentine belt tensioner. I told them that that was impossible because about a week before that, I put a new Contitech Serpentine belt on with a new Gates tensioner. They insisted so I ordered another tensioner and put it on.... the grinding/crunch noise is still there.
My cousin and I work on our cars together but he has some more knowledge on these things so I asked him to help me diagnose. We noticed the noise got louder when we turned the wheel and he suggested a power steering pump. So I order the pump from FCP Groton not realizing that the pulley didn't work with my new serpentine belt because of my VIN number not matching with the pump. So I got a Cardone brand reman pump from O'reilly Auto Parts nearby for $156 and they put my old pulley on for free.
Yesterday, June 10th, I put the pump on, drain the old fluid, pour new Pentosin CHF-11S in, turn the wheel to bleed out the air, put more Pentosin in and repeat until full. I start the car, and turn the wheel a bit. Shut down and double check the fluid level. We're good so I take her for a spin up and down the street but there is a small shake/shudder from 9 to 11 o' clock and 1 to 3 o' clock on the wheel and the grinding/crunching noise is still there. I pull back into the garage and check fluid again. The reservoir cap was under pressure, weird... I think. My cousin and I check it out again and we are a little stumped.
There's more than one issue now I understand. Should the reservoir be under pressure? I've driven the car about 35 miles total so would that be enough for Air Bubbles to escape? Along with the shake/shudder in the wheel, if I hit a bump in the road, the wheel shakes for another 2-3 seconds which I find odd. As for the noise on the passenger side of the motor, it almost sounds like it's coming from the timing belt cover area. I'm at 188k miles almost and the last timing belt was done at 109k so I understand if bearings may be failing. This noise is also much deeper than the top end tick caused by failing o-rings in the oil pan which I am hearing as well. And one last thing, when I rev the motor and let it settle down, I hear hear a super quick, yest constant and consistent light tick/tapping noise (yes a third noise) coming from an area at or near the turbos. Any ideas? Once again, I am so sorry for the long post but I do need a little help... just a little.
Thanks,
ceepyou
I was driving to my wedding rehearsal back in April and my car just died on Airport Way in Portland, OR. After checking my battery connections, fuses, oil levels, and fuel levels, I still couldn't get the car to start back up. Eventually after disconnecting the battery I could get the motor to run for about 30 seconds and then it would start running really rough as if it were low on fuel and then just die. It acted like the engine was going to jump out. Shook violently and then was down for the count.
Thankfully we were about 5 minutes past iPd so AAA was kind enough to tow us there but there was one problem, it was a Saturday and past their hours. We get there and thankfully there is a lady in their office catching up because she was ill earlier. Needless to say they accepted the car and we were off to the rehearsal.
On Monday I get a call from iPd about all that they have tried to diagnose the car. They started with a battery but the results were the same. Then they hooked up a continuous power source and voila! she ran. So $500 later I have a new alternator and a get away car for the wedding. Before I left though they told me that there was a grinding noise that they sourced to the Serpentine belt tensioner. I told them that that was impossible because about a week before that, I put a new Contitech Serpentine belt on with a new Gates tensioner. They insisted so I ordered another tensioner and put it on.... the grinding/crunch noise is still there.
My cousin and I work on our cars together but he has some more knowledge on these things so I asked him to help me diagnose. We noticed the noise got louder when we turned the wheel and he suggested a power steering pump. So I order the pump from FCP Groton not realizing that the pulley didn't work with my new serpentine belt because of my VIN number not matching with the pump. So I got a Cardone brand reman pump from O'reilly Auto Parts nearby for $156 and they put my old pulley on for free.
Yesterday, June 10th, I put the pump on, drain the old fluid, pour new Pentosin CHF-11S in, turn the wheel to bleed out the air, put more Pentosin in and repeat until full. I start the car, and turn the wheel a bit. Shut down and double check the fluid level. We're good so I take her for a spin up and down the street but there is a small shake/shudder from 9 to 11 o' clock and 1 to 3 o' clock on the wheel and the grinding/crunching noise is still there. I pull back into the garage and check fluid again. The reservoir cap was under pressure, weird... I think. My cousin and I check it out again and we are a little stumped.
There's more than one issue now I understand. Should the reservoir be under pressure? I've driven the car about 35 miles total so would that be enough for Air Bubbles to escape? Along with the shake/shudder in the wheel, if I hit a bump in the road, the wheel shakes for another 2-3 seconds which I find odd. As for the noise on the passenger side of the motor, it almost sounds like it's coming from the timing belt cover area. I'm at 188k miles almost and the last timing belt was done at 109k so I understand if bearings may be failing. This noise is also much deeper than the top end tick caused by failing o-rings in the oil pan which I am hearing as well. And one last thing, when I rev the motor and let it settle down, I hear hear a super quick, yest constant and consistent light tick/tapping noise (yes a third noise) coming from an area at or near the turbos. Any ideas? Once again, I am so sorry for the long post but I do need a little help... just a little.

Thanks,
ceepyou
Last edited by ceepyou; Jun 11, 2011 at 01:31 PM.
my strut spring seats grind and pop loudly when turning my wheels. I replaced with FCP Groten non OE parts and problem got much worse. I can almost feel the noise by feeling the top of the strut assembly when someone turns the steering wheel. 2000 xc Good luck
Well, the power steering vibrations have gone away so I guess the air bubbles are out of the line after about 60 miles of driving. I am just dealing with the noises now. Anybody have any ideas? In advance, I really appreciate any help I can get.
Thanks,
ceepyou
Thanks,
ceepyou
Well so far this noise is gone and hopefully for good. I replaced the turbo oil return gasket and o-ring on the passenger side because it was leaking terribly bad. Cranked the motor and no noise! Even the tapping noise from the lifters is quieter. Anyway, I am quite happy now but just a bit confused as to why the noises are fixed after that. It seems coincidental that all the problems were on the same, passenger side of the motor but a gasket and o-ring contributing to all that noise? Any ideas?
Thanks,
Joel Smith
ceepyou
Thanks,
Joel Smith
ceepyou
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