2000 S80 T6 auto 135K miles

Check engine light was flashing today. Flashed for about a minute then went off, did it twice. Both times it happened as I was starting off from a stand still.

Read codes with BSR-PPC diagnostic scanner. Showed code for each of the 6 cylinders which is listed as misfire for a particular cylinder or misfire-TWC damage. Example ECM-3503, 3513, 3523, 3533....... No other codes.


Did not notice any hesitation or misfire when car was running. Put plugs in a couple of thousand miles ago when I bought car.


These same codes appeared about 2 weeks ago as well then I reset it.


Has anyone run into this before?
Any thoughts on how to solve this?

 

Probably a crank position sensor problem. I had the same thing with mine, SES light would blink like nuts and codes would state it was misfing even though it clearly wasn't.

Pull out and clean off the sensor, also either shield the cable or re-route it away from the power cable going to the starter motor. If your tacho jumps around when you start the car then you need re-route the cable for sure.

My car seemed to do this more when it was damp\humid.

 

I was thinking the crank sensor could have something to do with it. I was trying to figure out what would tell the computer the engine was rotating properly after the plug fired and the only sensor I could think of was the crank sensor.

I cleaned the sensor about 4 months ago when I first bought the car. I also had a longer battery cable made and ran the cable from the starter, over the air plenum coming from the air cleaner then over to the firewall where it attaches. It is at least 6” away from all sensor wiring. Also added a separate ground cable from the starter mounting bolt to the ground connection on the driver’s inner fender.

When I first bought the car it had significant problems starting. I was not sure if this or the sticking cam actuator solenoid solved the starting problem. The needle now occasionally jumps when starting but a lot less. The check engine light started flashing about 10-15 minutes after I started the engine. It could be this sensor is on its way out. Probably next item I replace.

 

Replaced the crank (flex plate) sensor on top of the transmission bell housing using a factory sensor. Problem has been gone for a week now. I guess it has been solved. Thank you for the suggestion.

 

I want to be careful with this comment as a little bit of knowledge misapplied can be dangerous... with that said, traditionally Crank Position Sensors have been either a Hall effect sensor or an Inductance technology. "Cleaning the sensor" will not make it work better. If the sensor is beginning to fail, it's done. If the sensor has become loose or mispositioned, then it's conceivable that it could be resecured and operability restored. Food for thought.
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Opel Zafira

 

Ever heard of the crank sensor starting to go out without giving a DTC indicating such? Or rather causing a misfire code?

 

The issue is that ferrous material can become attached to the sensor and that can cause problems with a strong hall pulse.


CaliVolvoGuy its possible yes, but be sure to exhaust all other avenues first.