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For a 2001 S80 2.9 6 cyl. (non-turbo):

Looks like I have an oil leak at the seal (or is it 2 seals?) on the oil trap. Wanted to know what your experience was in removing it. Looks like you have to remove the AC compressor, alternator, PS pump, and the large accessory bracket that holds those 3 things on because you can't remove the passenger side bolt on the oil trap because it is blocked by the accessory bracket. Looks like it is a lot of work just to get to that one bolt!

Has anyone done this job? Did you have to remove all that stuff or is there another way? Are there one or two seals on the oil trap?

Any input appreciated...thanks.

 

Yours sounds a lot different than my '99 but I just did it and it is a beast to deal with. You can read up here:

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-s80-18/oil-pan-o-ring-replacement-instructions-1451/

 

OK, I just did this job and it’s really not too hard. I removed the accessory bracket because I saw no other way to remove the passenger side bolt on the oil trap. Some other posts say that you have to remove the intake manifold but that would not solve the problem of removing that bolt. Maybe you have to do that on a different S80 engine, but not mine (mine is the 2.9 6 cyl. non-turbo). I also tried a 10mm flex socket but that doesn’t work either…just no room to get it out.

So in summary you have to remove the power steering pump, alternator, AC compressor, and accessory bracket before you can remove the oil trap and replace the seal. But it sure is nice not to have that small puddle of oil under my car anymore!

There is one oil seal and one short piece of hose that should be replaced (see attached picture.) The oil seal is part number 30713120 or W0133-1660821. The short hose is part number 8653339 or W0133-1660692. If you Google any of those 4 part numbers you will see lots of websites that sell them. I also found them at a local import auto parts store. Or you can always get them at the dealer, but more expensive.

Here are step-by-step instructions to do this job:

1. Make sure car has been off for at least 5 minutes and remove negative battery cable.

2. Remove serpentine belt.

3. Unlatch and lift up the power steering reservoir. Do not remove any hoses.

4. Loosen (but do not remove yet) the metal hose on the power steering pump. Do not remove the rubber hose.

5. Remove the 3 bolts holding the power steering pump to the bracket (use a socket through the pulley holes).

6. Place a rag over the alternator to catch any drips, and now remove the metal hose from the pump. Don’t worry…the fluid will not gush out. Just maybe a few drips if any.

7. Place the power steering pump on top of the engine with the hole facing up. The fluid will not leak out. Cover it with a rag to keep dirt out.

8. Cover the end of the metal hose with a suitable rubber cap if you have one, or I just used a plastic sandwich bag with a rubber band. Tie the hose out of the way, toward the driver’s side. I used a small bungee cord which worked well.

9. Remove the 2 wires on the alternator. The small one just pulls out, the big one has a nut (pull off the plastic cap first). Move the wires out of the way.

10. Loosen (but do not remove) the 2 bolts on the bottom of the AC compressor. Back them out a few turns each.

11. Remove the 2 bolts on the top of the AC compressor. These 2 bolts also hold on the alternator.

12. Remove the one bolt at the top of the alternator (located near the pulley) and remove the alternator. I took it out on the left side of the radiator hose. You’ll have to turn it to get it out. You can also push on the radiator hose a bit to add clearance.

13. Now back out the 2 bottom bolts on the AC compressor all the way, turn the compressor upwards slightly and pull the bolts out. DO NOT remove the AC hoses or the wires.

14. Remove the 7 bolts holding the accessory bracket to the engine, and the one small bolt that holds a metal line to the bracket (located on lower left of bracket), and remove the bracket. The serp belt tensioner will come off with it.

15. Now you have easy access to the oil trap. Pull the big hose and the small hose off the “T” fitting. I left the hose that is clamped onto the TOP of the oil trap connected. Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the oil trap on and pull/wiggle the oil trap off the engine. Now remove the big hose on the SIDE of the oil trap (has a crimp-style clamp) by prying up the end of the clamp with a hooked tool or small screwdriver until it pops off. Then pull the hose off. Replace the crimp-style clamp with a regular hose clamp when you reassemble.

16. The original short piece of hose that connects the oil trap to the block has two hose clamps on it. Loosen the hose clamp and pull it off the block. The replacement hose (see part numbers above) is an improved design with a metal collar around it and does not require hose clamps.

17. I did not replace the oil trap itself, but cleaned it in a solution of mild degreaser and water in a 5 gal. bucket. (I used “Simple Green” but any household cleaner/degreaser would work). Submerge the oil trap in the cleaning solution and let it pour out the holes. Do this a number of times. I then let it soak overnight and blew it out with compressed air. If you don’t have an air compressor just let it air dry.

18. Make sure the small port on the T fitting is clear…mine was partially blocked with crud! I used a 5/32 drill bit to clean it out. Or you can use a small diameter nail or piece of wire to clean it.

19. Make sure you clean the engine block thoroughly where the oil seal and short hose connect. Lubricate the oil seal and short hose with oil when reassembling. And the T fitting so the hoses slide on easy. Oil trap bolts torque is 11 lb. ft. (or just “snug”).

20. Reassembly is basically the reverse of the above. I used LocTite on the 4 bottom bolts of the accessory bracket (the 4 short bolts) because it looked like it was used on those 4 bolts when the car was originally assembled. Torque value for the 7 accessory bracket bolts, 4 long AC/alternator bolts, one bolt at top of alternator, and the 3 power steering bolts is 18 lbs. ft. (or 25 NM). And don’t forget to cover the alternator with a rag when you reconnect the power steering hose, to catch any drips. It’s best to reconnect the metal power steering hose fitting hand tight before you install the PS pump on the bracket. Then once the pump is fully installed you can tighten the nut securely.

21. Before reconnecting the negative battery cable, turn the key to the #2 position (II). Then reset the electrical system (sunroof, power door locks, etc.) by unlocking the car with either the key fob or the key.

Hope this is helpful. Good luck.

Beachbum

 

Are the procedures the same for turbo??? i got to get to the oil trap in a 2002 turbo.

 

Are these filters place lower of oil trap...hose connected to Engine?

 

Not sure if it's the same for the turbo engine, sorry. I'm sure there's probably some additional plumbing that would need to be removed. I think I remember seeing somewhere that the intake manifold might have to be removed on a T6 to get to the oil trap? But don't quote me on that, not really sure. I do know that it DOES NOT need to be removed on the 2.9 (non-turbo) engine.

See if you can find some parts diagrams or diagrams of that area of the engine on the internet to take a look at, that will help. Good luck.

 

Dear BeachBum,

Are these filters place lower of oil trap...hose connected to Engine? ?