Hello All, I am new to Volvo as well as this site. I have experience with many American cars from old school to newer supercharged\turbo models (the only FWD I could stand) and this is my first foreign car, a 2002 Volvo s80 T6 with 181,0xx mi, very clean interior, and nice body other than a few door dings. Good news is there are service\maintenance records. Ill come out and say it, I researched this car before purchasing and there were a few people telling me they checked the car out and I should not get it due to a leak, specifically a Trans leak. I had an opportunity to go over this car with as much time as needed; I looked at it and drove the car looking for a leak. no constant leak other than the spill from sitting for a year which was about a half a quart. Despite all the bad things I have researched, I needed a challenge like this one to have a change of pace in my my car world. Besides that I started the negotiations at 1300 (with my uncle, it was his girlfriend’s old car) and wound up at $1000... It’s my car now... So here are my Questions on tips needed as I am looking for as many sources to get this S80 up to par and then try new things with possible good results:

1) Can someone with good knowledge on this car please tell me anything I should check, replace, test outside the norm\basics i.e. oil change, tune-up, radiator flush. Possible Trans flush/fluid-filter change.

2) My new S80 starts right up, but has a rough idle, seems to have a dead cylinder but will drive with decent power. I’m positive there’s more to the T6. So I researched the issue, call my best friend who is a master mechanic/diesel mechanic and tell him to hand over his snap on SOLUS scanner. So excited to use all the advanced features over a smaller less expensive scanner he told me he doesn’t know if it will scan a Volvo. I found out it was not upgraded with the European car software, but I was able to read the codes and live data and this is what I got for the codes.
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P0104 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction
Please correct me if I’m wrong, The P0108 seems to fit with the post I found where the MAP sensor is bad due to cheap design and the soldering could be cracked or damaged inside, so I should attempt to clean the connectors/the solder fix or find a replacement MAP sensor.??

P0-104-102-101 to me points to a dirty or malfunctioning MAF sensor, I’ve tested MAFs on fords, but I wouldn’t think it’s the same. My plan is to clean connectors, clean MAF elements and housing, test voltages input/output if good clear code and see where I am. Any tips??
P0110 I have not found an IAT sensor but I am thinking it is in reference to the sensor on the MAF... Any help is appreciated. I can’t wait to get my new toy on the road...I will post Pics of it now soon and my appearance progress pics...

:-)

 

Sorry for the long post and typos :-)

 

Any help??? Please

Thanks in advanced.

 

Update... checked all connections for the MAF and checked for visible vacuum leaks, I found one bad connection, a half inch aluminum tube connected to the turbo intercooler tubes that were just about off. I believe this may be routed as some sort of waste gate vacuum tube. After connecting there was an improvement in the idle, but it still rough sort of like a miss but there are no misfire codes. With the engine running I unplugged the MAF sensor and the idle gets worse. The test drive seemed to be worse now, there’s a little black smoke at start, it’s sluggish and there is a big lack of power and as there seems to be a misfire there is a surge with the lights dash and etc... I have not tried this with the MAP sensor as of yet but that what I will test in a few minutes here.
Question:
Does anyone know the voltage test procedures for the MAF as well as the MAP? I will buy sensors if needed but I want to make sure that it’s the proper diagnosis before shelling out hundreds of dollars and still have the same issue.
If problems are corrected will code clear automatically after a number of test drive cycles?

Any tips or Guidance is greatly appreciated, I just want to get this car running and everything to OE specs.