So I need help desperatly
#1
So I need help desperatly
i bought a 00 volvo s80 t6 got a great deal or so i thought
I knew it had blown turbos so had them replaced aswell as fixing a power steering leak and a couple coolant leaks and the sun roof
It ran great for 2 days and then it just died nice and smooth
It turns over just wont fire sounds like a broken timing belt but have the cover and the belt is new
gas is getting to the motor and i have been recharging battery to avoid damage all the fuses are good but no spark
I thought the crank sensor but I checked for resistance and it was 118.5 which is good but i replaced it anyway with no change
Could it be a cam sensor, or the cvvt, could 6 coil packs just died at the same time is there anyway to test them
I knew it had blown turbos so had them replaced aswell as fixing a power steering leak and a couple coolant leaks and the sun roof
It ran great for 2 days and then it just died nice and smooth
It turns over just wont fire sounds like a broken timing belt but have the cover and the belt is new
gas is getting to the motor and i have been recharging battery to avoid damage all the fuses are good but no spark
I thought the crank sensor but I checked for resistance and it was 118.5 which is good but i replaced it anyway with no change
Could it be a cam sensor, or the cvvt, could 6 coil packs just died at the same time is there anyway to test them
#2
#3
Check the timing before you bother changing any sensors. Be sure to lookup how to set the VVT unit. The marks on the pulleys lining up isnt enough.
#4
If you feel there is no spark, pull one of the coils and check to see if you have any spark. If you do not have spark, you likely have an electrical problem. Not a timing related problem.
Did you pull the timing belt cover off? Does it look like the tensioner and idler pulleys are OK? Is there tension on the belt?
Might be a problem associated with the security imobilizer system.
Suggest you find someone who has a special Volvo diagnostic tool to see if there are any other codes which a conventional code reader will not pick up. See if there are any garages in your area which specialize in Volvo's (Dealers are expensive).
Did you pull the timing belt cover off? Does it look like the tensioner and idler pulleys are OK? Is there tension on the belt?
Might be a problem associated with the security imobilizer system.
Suggest you find someone who has a special Volvo diagnostic tool to see if there are any other codes which a conventional code reader will not pick up. See if there are any garages in your area which specialize in Volvo's (Dealers are expensive).
#6
If the car was running good, I am not sure how the VVT would go out of spec unless someone reset it and did not tighten the bolts (see if they are loose). There may be a possibility the VVT actuator is bad which could cause the timing to be off but mine set a code when this went (as read using Volvo code reader). Can buy a "rebuilt" VVT actuator from Volvo dealer for about $125.
Edited- Just thought about this some more and I doubt if a faulty VVT actuator would cause it to stall out because mine would run when this was faulty, it just started hard.
Without the proper tools you will spend a lot of time and money trying to solve this type of problem.
Suggest you either buy a dedicated Volvo code reader or bring it to someone to read all your codes.
I paid about $350 for my BSR reader new (no longer made but is replaced with one selling for about $650). Mine can be sold today for ~$300 used on Ebay. See link below. Unfortunately person is selling this one as "no returns accepted". Would be a very good investment if you can get them to prove it works before buying it (Send photo proving it?).
The reader also resets all codes such as the Air Bag fault indicator which I set off when I unplugged my radio and went off again later when the ABS module went causing a spike in the electrical system.
Sounds like you know how to work on cars which is good because the earlier S80's have a lot of smaller and some major problems as well.
Good luck.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PPC-D...item2a100d0a7c
Edited- Just thought about this some more and I doubt if a faulty VVT actuator would cause it to stall out because mine would run when this was faulty, it just started hard.
Without the proper tools you will spend a lot of time and money trying to solve this type of problem.
Suggest you either buy a dedicated Volvo code reader or bring it to someone to read all your codes.
I paid about $350 for my BSR reader new (no longer made but is replaced with one selling for about $650). Mine can be sold today for ~$300 used on Ebay. See link below. Unfortunately person is selling this one as "no returns accepted". Would be a very good investment if you can get them to prove it works before buying it (Send photo proving it?).
The reader also resets all codes such as the Air Bag fault indicator which I set off when I unplugged my radio and went off again later when the ABS module went causing a spike in the electrical system.
Sounds like you know how to work on cars which is good because the earlier S80's have a lot of smaller and some major problems as well.
Good luck.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PPC-D...item2a100d0a7c
Last edited by dcm0123; 04-24-2011 at 12:20 PM.
#8
#9
and yeah its definitly an electrical problem the spark plugs were fouled so i replace them the crank sensor and the cam sensor i definitly have fuel pressure at the railand the timing checks out but the car still doesnt run can you fry 6 coil packs all at the same time
Last edited by NoLifeTilBoost; 04-30-2011 at 04:20 PM.
#10
I guess you could, but its unlikely IMO. Have you checked ALL fuses? Pull the plugs out, attach a coil and see if you get a spark. Its not a guarantee of a spark under compression of course it will give you an indication. I dont think its a cam or crank sensor, crank sensor would give you zero RPM on the tacho while cranking and cam sensor it mightn't run, but it would definately try to kick a few times. Is the battery voltage good when you start cranking?
#12
#13
Have you checked the fuses and relays in both fuse boxes? Sounds like a fuse or relay to me. Its an unusual problem you are having. There are very few things 5 coils share in common.
The other poster could also be right. There maybe a skinned wire touching the frame but that would probalby blow a fuse.
Jim
The other poster could also be right. There maybe a skinned wire touching the frame but that would probalby blow a fuse.
Jim
#16
Is it..
No compression on all cylinders
Low compression on all cylinders
No compression on some cylinders
Low compression on some cylinders
No compression on one cylinder
Low compression on one cylinder
In any case they need to tell you WHERE its loosing compression from. If its as bad as it sounds, its not going to need a leakdown, just apply compressed air to the cylinders at TDC one by one and listen.
Sudden loss on more than one cylinder like this points to the timing being out, and I dont care where the marks line up, that only part of the picture with this car. The exhaust cam is not keyed, so if the sprocket was removed and not torqued correctly it may have slipped.
Dont write the car off, just yet.
#17
#18
and they did say the timing was off
#19
I agree. Very unlikely to have no spark and no compression at same time unless the timing belt was broken which you said is new.
About the only thing which can cause no spark is an electrical problem. Could be sensor, computer, fuses, ground wire, wire shorted to engine etc.
About the only thing which can cause no spark is an electrical problem. Could be sensor, computer, fuses, ground wire, wire shorted to engine etc.
and between the cam sensor and plugs it has spark now
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